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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well so of you probably know what i am doing with my '84 ford truck. it is all lowered and a pretty stout 5.0. my question is how should i stiffen up the stock motor mounts. i m not sure but maybe a late model mustang 5.0 mounts might work. sombody said about drilling them and running bolts through but i don t know if i can. the only other option for me would be to chain the motor from the heads to the frame or get some kind a come along or maybe a tractor type 3 point hitch link and fab some brackets. let me know what some of you have done and give me some ideas on home made projects! thanks

here are some pics.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2075229
check it out!

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: greasemonkey85 on 10/1/06 7:39am ]</font>
 

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btw i have powersteering and it cleared i just used one bolt on the head (the upper one in pic)^ and used a l bracket on the sway bolt and a turnbuckle with only one bolt on top part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
that is what i was thinking of doing. except i was going to use a upper link from a small farm tractors 3 pt. hitch. it is $20 a TSC. they are gold anodized and are very heavy duty hiem joints. i probably will do both sides of the motor. thanks keep the ideas coming
 

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I do not see the need to use a strap on the engine if the engine mounts are through bolted.

The pass side does not need a strap, its mount is actually compressed under hard acceleration.

Two grade 8 3/8" through bolts seem to be holding the mount together on my Torino just fine, and those bolts are supporting the entire weight of the front of the car during the launch.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
if i bolt through the motor mounts do i just drill through the steel and rubber than put a bolt and big flat washers on. and as big a bolt as i can fit?
 

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Yes, I bolted all the way through the mont and into the frame stand.

I thought two bolts would be better than one, and so I used two 3/8" bolts with flat washers and nylock nuts. I just very lightly snugged them down, but not tight enough to where the mount was compressed. This way the car stays vibration free but still has the strength of a solid mount.

Check out the driver's side mount in this pic. Wish I had a better one, but this was all I could find.



Good luck,

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i think that is what i am gonna do. how hard was it to drill them? i kinda thouhgt i would have to drill all the through the frame too. cause i think the truck mounts are like the mustang ones but not sure. anyway there are two bolts into the block then the stud that sticks out and goes through the frame. i ll check it out tomorrow. that beats paying $100's for a poly mount and the time to custom fab some others. thanks guys!
 

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If you don't have the room to bolt all the way through the mount, your only other options are a solid mount or a torque strap.

Good luck,

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
it s a truck i got all the room in the world! lol. i like being able to crawl in there and work on stuff. lol i can sit on the inner fender and adjust the carb or change plugs it is great!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
holy crap. i ve worked on stangs and newer trucks but my gal i could almost sleep in there comfortably. i like having all that room i m finding out a lot of mustang stuff fits, like headers and so forth. you got it in there though huh. have to use a shoe horn? lol
 

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Greg P. I used your idea on the bolts in the motor mounts and it works great.I went ahead and put the bolts in new motor mounts and just did it all at the same time.
 

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On 2006-10-01 18:57, bob1963 wrote:
Greg P. I used your idea on the bolts in the motor mounts and it works great.I went ahead and put the bolts in new motor mounts and just did it all at the same time.
Glad it worked for you, Bob. I like the bolt idea simply because it is effective without "giving up" anything in the stealth department.

That, and you can run a power steering pump! LOL....

Greg
 
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