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Discussion Starter #1
I've decided I want to answer the famous "What you got under there?" question by saying 289 with confidence. I'm going to rebuild my 289, and I'm about to have about 2k to play with. The motor has about 110K miles on it. Let me say what I already have, and if you all could just rattle off a combo YOU would go with for about $2k, it'll really help me get a direction. Right now I have a 600 CFM Edelbrock carb, hooker comp headers, an RPM intake, and performer (non RPM) cam. The cam's gonna go. What parts would you keep, change, and most importantly, what heads would you add?? Sorry for long post, thanks a bunch.
 

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It depends on what you are looking for as far as personality. I like low-end torque, but most others don't. What type of driving, etc?
 

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This is going to be a street car. I want to have lot's of fun driving it and want to be able to roast the ricers that are very common here in the Bay Area. I'll be taking it occasionally to Sears Point for casual drag racing once in a while. As far as more tq or hp, I don't know. Which would you guys want more of, and how would you get it?
 

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I am planning on answering this same question about $2K for myself in the next few months, so I am reading with interest.

For the sake of discussion, how about $1895 for a 302 cu. in. / 320 HP long block from Central Coast Mustangs (www.centralcoastmustang.com)?

Of course, it is brand new 5.0L block with GT-40P heads, so you will need new headers and some other adaptations.

It's one idea for thought and criticism.
 

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What gears you got in the rear? Gears will make a big difference in take off and acceleration. With that T5 you could go with pretty low gears. I had 3.73's in a 95GT five speed daily driver I had. They were great. Not to low for the highway, but had great acceleration.
Are you building the motor yourself? As for the heads, I'd port and polish your factory ones. A good set of aftermarket heads are gonna run you about $1000. That's half your money. Then you need pistons, rings, bearings, cam, gaskets, etc. Then you got machine work, boring the block, maybe turning the crank. You'd probably need more like $2500 or a little more if you want aftermarket heads. And if your paying someone to assemble it, you'll need more too. Just a few things to think about.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would like to build it myself, and I have a friend who was a machinist who can help me with the block work. I'll have to take it to a real shop though to balance it. As for the rear, I'm running the stock 3.00 open diff. I'm thinking about changing that to a 3.54 posi down the road, but it works fine for now.
 

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Hmm.... lets see. Motor on a budget? Keep the intake and headers. The carb needs to be a little bigger but you could prob get away with it. Worked over set of 351W heads with a port job or used aftermarket heads. New cam. A set of gears in the 3.73 range. Use the rest for the rebuild and all the crap you forget about. Look for guys wanting to move up at the strip. These guys are usually selling a nice set of midrange aftermarket heads. This should get you into the low 14's or high 13's.
 

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Oh, forget the whole thing. Just drop it off at my house and buy a new car. I'll take real good care of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oh, OK!!
Sounds like a great idea!!
 

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You definitly need gears.
Small motors have no torque
Seriously those ricegrinders that do run well do so in part because they use alot of gear. As far as your engine build.... there is a couple of ways to go. One option I like personally is to find a different motor to build so I can keep driving the car
If you do that get a rebuildable 302 for the added cubes(just tell em its a 289 or a 260
). If you build a junkyard donor or your 289 you really dont know what you need tell you take it apart and examine it. Your gonna need to bore either way so new pistons/rings are in order....make sure you don not lower your comprssion below 9-1(10-1 if your end up with Alu heads). you dont need to rebalance if you can use you existing rods, damper,flexplate and crank(crank gets reground of course). IF rods are still good replace rod bolts with high quality bolts from say ARP...this usually requires resizing the big end(all though Ive gotten away without resizing after rod bolt swap).
You will need cam, rod, and main bearings, timing chain, oil pump(chuck the stock wheenie oil pump driveshaft and get a real one
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and gasket set. Use your intake,carb and headers. Now if you want to make real power you need to do something about heads because stock heads basicly suck

Like mentioned before maybe you can find a set of used aftermarket heads or splurge and go edlebrock perf rpms for arond 1000.00. at least get the stockers ported and fitted for screw in studs and guideplates. Go with Comp Cam XE268H with stock heads and with port stockers or aftermarket heads go with the XE274H and get the gears for sure!
 

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You know I start to slober when I think about that car. Your just lucky I live in MI or I'd be at your house everyday after work bugging you to sell it.
 

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I am running 12's with the same carb and intake, add gears first, then heads, and do a roller cam conversion. If that is more than 2k, save up until you have it. A good dyno tune is worth more than it costs. Just make sure that you tune it the best you can before you take it in, that will save time and money. After that you can gradually add different things piece by piece. I can tell you more but you didn't leave alot of specifics. Check out project 11.99.
 

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Sorry for the double post. If you need a new short-block get a 347, or better yet get a stroked 351, but you will need a new intake, carb, distributer, oil pan and headers...very costly. All of this is well beyond 2k, however, if I was doing it again, I would save and buy the stroked 351. Over the past 25 years or so, I have learned, buy the biggest and best first because eventually that is what you will want. The same goes for any other parts, just buy the best stuff available, that way you are not buying average stuff first, and then eventually upgrading anyway. You won't be sorry.
 

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Seeing that I already spen thousands on my engine, I think I would take 2K and get a set of sweet wheels/rubber, and with what is left, I would get my front-end re-done.
 
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