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daze, update on listed price, the SC has went up a few bucks (now 56.99) the MC is still the same, and a pushrod is avail @ Speedway as well for 12.99 . May have been avail then.... maybe the length wouldnt work for your app sense you used the bracket from another vendor.... (7.000" Max Mounting Distance : 6.600 Min. Mounting Distance)

Waiting for an update on the bracketry for the T/L trans....
 

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I recently converted my '66 Fairlane to a 5 speed with a hydraulic clutch. I used the kit from Bruce Couture's Modern Driveline. The components they make for the hydraulic master cylinder mount are an awesome fit. I decided not to use the Hydramax kit only because I heard about fitment issues as it is designed for numerous application, and it, in my opinion, doesn't look very good.
Sorry to bump an old thread, but the information here is relevant.

v8Billy, do you have any pics of your setup? After reviewing all the options for clutch setups, I've concluded that cable-style clutch setups (such as the T5 in my 66) are a pain to adjust, keep off the headers, and worry about cable breakage.

I'm going to order the Modern Driveline setup. It looks pretty damn simple. I'm sending a set of pedals off to Mustang Steve for a bearing conversion this week, and when they get back, I should have the Modern Driveline stuff here as well.
 

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Once the rod is installed you need to make adjustments so that there is a little bit of preload on the throwout bearing. Also further adjustments may need to be made depending on where in clutch pedal travel you like the clutch to release. I personally prefer it to release closer to the floor rather than near the top of pedal travel.

sorry, I know this is old. how do you adjust where the clutch releases? more preload on the tob?
 

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Im researching some avenues and this is one.
Putting the 532 BB Ford in my 67, MPG long tube headers, Quick Time Bell, Jerico Trans.

Weighing Cable vs Hyd. I liked my cable, but need to figure out how to make it work, with the cable coming from the rear as the headers block the front of the fork.

Also, Hyd sounds interesting. Mcleod makes complete kits, but only for 65 - 66?

Im guessing you could probably make this article work on any Trans/Bell set up?
 

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... Weighing Cable vs Hyd. I liked my cable, but need to figure out how to make it work, with the cable coming from the rear as the headers block the front of the fork.

... Im guessing you could probably make this article work on any Trans/Bell set up?
My 2¢ - both cable and hydro work well. I look for several primary factors - clutch fork operation forward or rearward to disengage (fork pivot location determines this), clearances for entire cable, modifications to pedal for cable, clearances for hydro MC, clearances for external slave (in-front or behind fork), installation/service requirements, and total cost. So, when choosing a setup, the general options are:

  • Fork pivot location for push or pull
  • Cable pull forward
  • Cable pull rearward
  • External hydraulic pull forward -or- push forward
  • External hydraulic pull rearward -or- push rearward
  • Internal hydraulic throwout bearing assembly
Generally, I find external hydro to be simpler for install, clearance, cost and maintenance. Cable for cost and maintenance. Internal hydro for clearance. Keep in-mind, most bellhousings can be converted to the other pivot location, giving you more options.

David
 

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David, thanks. the only limiting factor I have is I can go with cable pulling forward, like i had.

I have the cable, pedal set up for it, bell and fork for either. Only problem with fwd pull is header clearance.

First choice is trying to figure how to use my cable, pedal or new cable to pull it rearward? That s my first hurdle. If I cant make that work, then shift to Hyd.

choice are $$$ based, since i already have the cable, I want to try to make it work, if not the I have to totally shift gears (HA LOL) and go with a Hyd set up. I like external set up for maint.
 

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If you have choices of fork types (see-saw bar pivot/mech linkage, or end ball pivot/cable) then your cable can come from the rear with either. Examples are the Mustang 2.3 bellcrank using the standard pull-forward cable fork like this, or a simple rear cable bracket pulling rearward on a mechanical linkage fork. Either method would allow going around the header tubes to a clear area behind. Hydraulic versions of the same setups can be done.

As you are a good fabricator, you could take any path and do well. I understand you already have the cable quadrant on your clutch pedal, so working with that and a cable is the first option I would consider, but think of the others as you go of course.

David
 

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If you have choices of fork types (see-saw bar pivot/mech linkage, or end ball pivot/cable) then your cable can come from the rear with either. Examples are the Mustang 2.3 bellcrank using the standard pull-forward cable fork like this, or a simple rear cable bracket pulling rearward on a mechanical linkage fork. Either method would allow going around the header tubes to a clear area behind. Hydraulic versions of the same setups can be done.

As you are a good fabricator, you could take any path and do well. I understand you already have the cable quadrant on your clutch pedal, so working with that and a cable is the first option I would consider, but think of the others as you go of course.

David
That is pretty awesome! I saw the 71 72 Mustang cable clutch kit from Modern Drive line attaches to the orig pedal, goes down through the orig rod hole, anchors there using the pedal box studs, and then goes back along the frame rail and acuates the fork by pushing if forward much like any other cable set up. Whats wierd is this geometry, took me a while to figure out if by pushing on the clutch, you pull on the cable, how does that PUSH the fork forward? Mod DL told me the actual sleeve of the cable has an anchor ball nad the whole outer sleeve moves on the wire cable? Soooo, I like that concept, but mine doesnt work that way, so rigging an anchor point behind the fork, for a traditional pull and rearward actuation is the task. A welded tab on the bell or somethign like that.

The only other question is making that turn down from the pedal, mine attaches to the top of the pedal, has a firewall adjustment, but getting it downard and back at that angle maybe tough. May also have to fab a bracket or tab around that same pedal box anchor point etc. Sounds like a fun fabrication process!
 
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