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If you are looking for a sticky street tire, they are good. They will always be a compromise on the track. You will give up some 60' times and ET with street threaded tires. Although there are some really quick cars on drag radials, nobody runs them because they are the quickest way to go. They run them because of class rules or they just want a quick, fun street car. If you can run a slick, they are the quickest way down the track.
 

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True drag slicks can be as much as three to five TENTHS faster at the drag strip. Big waste of money at the track


JOE SHERMAN RACING ENGINES
 

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Some cars seem to be able to hook with a drag radial, my car does not!

That being said, for the street drag radials are a huge improvement over regular tires. I have used Nitto's (not bad), but I'm presently using M&H 275-50-15's they are a bit taller than a 28x9 M/T slick (true 28" vs. 27.3")

275-50-15 is really tight on a 65/66 but can be done with no rubbing with rolled lip, a BFH and some minor tweaks in the front corner.
 

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My Falcon gets driven to and from the track so it has DOT tires. The 275/50R15 Hoosier Drag Radials on the car now have been good for 1.520 60fts but will not hook up on a regular basis. Hoosier bias ply QTP's or M/T ET Streets work much better than the radials. I'm not convinced Drag Radials are the way to go and wouldn't recommend them.

Although Hoosier Quick Time Pro and Drag Radials are DOT approved both tires have a "Not For Highway Use" on the sidewalls.

http://www.bowtie0069.fotki.com/2011-irwindale-pix-1/6-30-11-irwindale-pix/img-0338.html
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was running BFG drag radials and pump gas. No traction for 100 feet. I went around taking a poll of what other people were running. Saw one set of M & H's, some Nitto's, Hoosiers. The Nitto's seemed fairly popular. I didn't see any Mickey's which seemed odd. These things are too expensive for me to do trial and error on.

I'm going to swap my ET Drag's back on it and go try again. I may try ET Street's so I'll be able to get out on the highway "legal".
 

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What traction device are you using?

Caltracs, slapper bars?

Shocks?

FWIF on my 66, even with real 28x9 M/T slicks air pressure is critical, with 17psi I can spin the tires in 1st-3rd, however with 14 psi it hooks.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Shelby under rider's and a rear anti-sway bar help keep the rear end straight. No front anti-sway bar. I welded and boxed the leaf spring perches a long time ago and installed pinion angle wedges. I used to run Lakewood slapper's and they worked ok too. I have no wheel hop. I don't see that Cal trac's would help much. They just look like an adjustable under ride bar to me with pinion angle adjustment. Maybe there is some preload thing I'm not understanding about those. I can't talk from experience with them. I have 90/10 front drag shocks, 50/50 rears, 2 batteries in the back, sub frame connectors, TCP shock tower brace kit. On slicks it lifted good, planted good and ran straight. My best 60 foot times were in the low 1.60's.

I tried different air pressures in the drag radials but it didn't help. After about 20 cars laid down some rubber I made my last pass and that helped but very little. I just ran first and third and skipped second gear because of tire spin. Ran a low 13 at 105 with a 2.4 60 foot. The track was cold and a lot of people weren't hooking up but some were. Mostly it was the cars with the huge baloneys. The track manager said they would switch over to days so there would be some heat in the track. For test and tune they don't do much to prep the track.
 

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Never had much luck with them. Better than a DOT "street tire" (like a stocker would use) but nowhere near a dedicated drag slick. The biggest problem I had with them (keep in mind my experience is VERY limited with drag radials) is that once the tire spins, they don't recover very well. Sometimes they'd just go up in smoke. Other times they'd rattle...and when they did, they'd rattle HARD. Only reason I tried them was class rules. I put the treated DOT street tires back on and went faster and more consistently. Odd though...I put the DR's for sale and a guy paid me exactly what I paid for them new, and they had about 30 passes on them. He made the offer before asking how much I wanted.
 

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275/60-15 M/T radials work for me. 12.5psi everyday (it's a summertime street car). Manual trans, torque arm, lots of frontend travel.

Last time out to a TNT- drove 85mi to the track...short 1st gear burnouts (little smoke)...1.304 60'...drove it 85mi home. Didn't even check the air pressures, only changes at the track were adjusting the rear shocks and turning the bottle on.

Current set has been on the car 4 years, but need to be replaced (i'm getting the M/T's again). AFAIK, they are the only sticky ones that do not say "for racing use only".
 

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I think the ones that are "good" have no tread and are essentially a slick but comply with drag radial specific classes. Not legal for the street as they have no tread.
 

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Will let you know after this weekend....

have a set of mickey thompson 235/60/15 drag radials on my falcon.

t5 tranny,4.11 gear,regular traction bars,9way adjustable caltrac shocks.

dont expect it to hook to well but 1.7's would be great.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm gonna put my ET Drag's back on for now so I can get a new baseline on my set up.

If I go back to DOT slicks it will probably be ET Street's.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I ran my ET Drag's yesterday. Scrubbed them for some 6 feet coming off the line. They never did this before so I know I'm making more power. I just can't put it down on the track. Best I could get was a 1.76 60 foot on my first run then the track started to go away. The rest were in the 1.80's. My old norm was 1.60's. It looks like I am going to need more tire like a 10 1/2. With my rear wheel well mods they will fit now but no drag radials. I'm going to stay with ET Drag's at the track.

I still ran low 12's even loosing that much out of the hole. My reaction times have not slipped and its been a long while since I have run my car. I managed a batch of .03 to .05's, a .07 and my last run I caught a .003(luck).

My "enhanced" stock shifter was a bust. I tended to pull it through second into third even though I have it notched at second gear. I could work it fine sitting still in the car. The force of launch plus pulling the shifter magnified my pull too much. I then had to back shift to second, run it out and shift into third again. I probably lost another 2 or 3 tenths messing around with that.

I guess I will have to go back to a ratchet shifter but I'm going to get a different one. I never liked the big boxy B & M mega shifter. The cable linkage was never quite right on one end or the other. I opt'd to get good shifts on the track and then it didn't want to catch park.

Any better C4 pattern reverse ratchet shifter suggestions would be very welcome. I need one that will adjust properly for a C4. These universal type shifters don't seem to do that very well or at least the one I have doesn't.

I feel like I just took 1 step forward and 2 giant steps back. It was pretty depressing but it could have been worse. I have never seen so many cars puke on the track as I did yesterday.
 

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MPH is the indicator of how much power your making..How did it compare to your old slips?..May be off with your shifting issues though?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I lost around 4 miles per hour. I could experience the lost time in my mind from messing with the shifter. It would be about as bad as missing second gear in a manual. I let off the gas until I could get it to notch into second because I was afraid I would slide back through and hit first.

This was my first time out after sending my carb off to be re-worked so I'm starting over on jetting. It was lean. The carb guy opened up my pvcr's and put a 4 window power valve in it then jetted it back down to 67/76. Before I was running 72/78. I went up to 69/78 and and it picked back up some but I still missed second. By then the track was getting ready to shut down so I didn't have a chance to try another jet change. I was also on pump gas and it has never run its best on just pump gas. I have to back my total timing down.

My slicks are a bit old but still in decent shape. The track was not prepared well and then a bunch of cars started throwing anti-freeze, transmission fluid, one even busted his pumpkin and dropped gear oil. I don't think they ever put any traction compound down on the launch pad.

I'm considering dragging my mega shifter back out of the box if I can find where I put it. I was so paranoid I was soft shifting it with the stock one. I think I'm going to switch to a pro ratchet of some configuration though.

There's an end of the season bracket race coming up the last Saturday of this month so I may go get in that if I can sort some of this out before then.

I still had a lot of fun. I've really missed being able to get on the track. Even though the outside of my car looks pretty ragged right now(new metal and half primer) people are still coming over to look at it. In all the time I have run over there I haven't seen another 65/66 fastback on the track. I'm a relic, LOL.
 

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"Since there is no such thing as too much power it must be a traction problem."
Softer, bigger or purpose built tires go a long way to getting better traction.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I couldn't find my old shifter so I ordered one of these and the reverse 3 speed gate. I think it will work better than the old shifter did.
My old slicks were the stiff sidewall types which probably didn't help. I had marginal traction on those before. I just wish you could try this stuff out before having to pop out $360 on tires as an experiment. Anybody have some 26 x 10 ET Drag's that have 50 or so runs left in them for cheap money?

 
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