Most would say that unless they are free, they aren't a steal. I've never ran anything with D2's but I have always heard they are a bitch to keep away from detonation. I wouldn't even go to the effort to swap them with whatever you're running. I'm guessing you are running D3's. I would just work them over. D3's really aren't bad heads, they just kept compression down to where Ford wanted it. D0VE's are where it's at for bolt on street power, but D3's can be worked with if you pick the proper cam. Comp Cams extremem grind series is a good start. Just make sure they grind it right!!!(inside joke). Good luck.
milling them .070" is safe but it might not remove the shallow chamber on the side where the quench should be and I have heard of .100" being shaved off without problems in high compression pulling trucks and mug boggers but the intake face of the head needs to be milled so the intake sits on the heads correctly which is no big deal at all. You want to totally remove that shollow side of the chamber so it is part of the deck surface in order to have good quench and detonation resistance. I would use a different head personally whether it be a D3VE or C8VE-D0VE. Anything is better than those 1 year only D2 pieces of junk totally open chamber heads.
I hope you're not referring to the 429 PI head, D20E, and are referring to the standard 429 D2VE head. I've got a set of the PI's off a 460 Marine engine, with about ten hours on them. They are practically brand new. What mods should I make to these heads? I intend to use them in my 70 Torino GT, probably on a 429 first, then swap them to the 460 I have waiting for a make over.
The fact he said the chambers were "huge" means it's the regular passenger head with full bore chamber much like the 2V Cleveland head. The D2 PI heads have closed chambers that have more volume than the C8-D0 heads but are still not bad at all and are closed chambers which are easy to tell the difference between plus the big valves and the inbetween CJ and regular intake port size is very east to spot. PIs are very good heads as are the exhaust ports which have a higher short turn.
I can get the heads for machine work. $120 is pretty good deal for heads that have been cut for bigger valves and rocker arm studs. They have been gasket matched and exhaust bumps been laid back and some other stuff done. I know there was a site that gave the amount milled off deck and the amount needed to mill of intake face to seat everything properly. Anyone know where this guy is by chance?
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ltyrsports on 3/26/02 6:54pm ]</font>
Man, for another 100-150 bucks, you could start on a good set of C8,C9,D0 or D3 heads and be MUCH better off.
Spending good money on heads that will ALWAYS be the weak point in your motor is not cool.
Big valves are not all they're cracked up to be anyhow, sometimes they actually HURT flow if not properly done. As for the screw in studs, 68-71 heads are set up for them from the factory. D3's can be converted real cheap.
I just hate to see a guy do alot of work and spend all the cash on a deal that is not that good just because it's "free". It's gonna cost you plenty in performance!
Just my 2 cents...
'71 Torino GT w/351c/C4
Soon to be 466/C6
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Greg P on 3/26/02 8:41pm ]</font>
I know this guy has some shitty heads. I told him not to buy as they would require some work. The have been seriously worked over as it is, but they need milled big time. What amount can be taken off? .60 .80 .100, what depth ofcut on deck does the intake side need to cut to fit on intake? The money is spent on these, so help him out.
I had some D3's with 060 taken off. It looks like there's plenty of meat in the head so I'd hazard a guess of .1 would be safe to remove. From what I've read that should be close to 10cc's removed from chamber volume. Not drastic, but any increase in compression should be helpful. I'd still worry about detonation with those heads though. Good luck young grasshopper.
Actually, .100" milled should remove nearly 20CCs. The larger the chamber diameter, the more volume is removes per .010" cut so on a small block it comes out to nearly .008-.009" melled to remove 1CC(289 heads) and .006" milled off C8VE-D0VE-C to remove 1CC so the D2s with their full bore chamber will need slightly less than .005" milled to remove 1CC. I'd say .100" milled off should remove 20+CCs and hopefully remove that shallow part of the chamber at which point will be better than a D0VE-C head with smaller chamber and excellent quench with detonation resistance of the early heads.
Ok, LtYr told me not to buy these, but got caught up in the fact they were ported and have the big valves. I got them very cheaply, now I know why. Anyway, I need to know what amount needs milled off of intake side to fit intake if I mill .100 of of deck?
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