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Discussion Starter #1
I took some time out to go to the gun range and shoot off some steam so I'm a bit behind schedule. The heads will be going to the machine shop on monday.






It may not look like it but a lot of material came out of these things. I burned my Sears Craftsman 30 gallon compressor up on this. It won't make more than 20 or 30 pounds of pressure in the tank now. That is why I went to the roto zip. It was great for the first, rough cuts to get the bulk of the metal out. I will probaby hit them some this week end in spots to touch up, polish out a spot or clean up a line. I also plan to cc them this week end to see how much I took out. Like Psig said in my other post, my flow bench will be the drag strip so I hope I did good.
 

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Man, those are all kinds of smooth!!
 

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I took some time out to go to the gun range and shoot off some steam so I'm a bit behind schedule. The heads will be going to the machine shop on monday.

Aint it a great 'stress' reliever?
It may not look like it but a lot of material came out of these things. I burned my Sears Craftsman 30 gallon compressor up on this. It won't make more than 20 or 30 pounds of pressure in the tank now.

Sorry for your loss..... ;)
 

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If they flow as good as they look, you'll be flyin' soon!
:tup:
David
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
So where is the Ford muscle head stamp of approval?

It took way too long. Life and such things sort of got in my way.

I took the valve guides down inside the valve pockets by quite a bit. I used a cylindrical rock and ground them down and used my mic to measure the distance to get them all the same. I also use the same rock and went in from the exit side of the exhaust ports and ground into the base of the valve guide bosses which took a lot of material off the base and about half way up. I then finished reshaping them with the carbides and finally the sandpaper rolls. I didn't want to grind the valve guides all the way down or I don't think for my 289 that I needed to go that radical. These things should really pick up my 289 on the top end. It is a top end motor anyway. Either that or they will catch on fire or blow up. Hopefully they will run and not do the other 2.

I'm not sure if the machine shop will want to install new valve guides or not. Maybe. I'm also planning to re-use my retainers and keepers(moly retainers, hard keepers 10 degree). They have only been set up this one time and this engine did not have a lot of runs on it. These valves have only been run once too so they should clean up fine. It looks like I need new studs as I have used these on 3 different sets of heads. I'm not sure I trust them any more. Also plan to get a new set of roller rockers since my old ones have also been run on 3 sets of heads. I'm going to need new custom length pushrods too because of t he .070 angle mill. I ran the engine through both cycles with clay on the pistons and I have plenty of margin for the mill work.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I have read about the expansion differential between bronze and cast iron but my machine shop has always been able to install phosphor bronze guides in my iron heads and they have worked very well. I don't know what all the tricks are whether it is liners or thick walled, which alloy they use, pre-heating the heads, knurling, how the guides or honed. They have always worked really well but I have also run crome stem stainless pro flo valves in my race heads. Maybe that also has something to do with it. They are chevy 350 valves, LOL. The hot rod engine does not see much run time. I have as yet to actually wear out the valve guides on a re-build.

The E7 heads I got for the 302 in my truck are the stock iron guides with stock valves.

The Vdub heads have bronze guides and Manley racemaster valves.
 
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