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Discussion Starter #1
I finally have my car motor back together after a cam "mishap". Well, I got to start it and nothing. I have the dizzy in right and everything is hooked up. The motor never fires until I let off the key. WTF? By this time I've probably cranked it for 1 minute total with only a pop and fire, no continious running for more than 2-3 seconds. Well, I hook up the battery charger, grab a beer, and go inside and think about it for 30 minutes or so. I then head back out and light the fire. Boom, fires right up, but dies as soon as I let the key off crank position. It will stay running as long as I keep the key in the crank position. Weird ****. I have come to one of the following conclusions. Either the switch is junk or my ignition control box crapped out. Everything was fine when I killed it and took it apart a month ago. Anybody have any thoughts? Should I just get a new ignition box and give that a try? I love my car, but this **** pisses me off.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cool, I have all stock ignition minus a Jacobs coil, Duraspark dizzy, and blue grommet ignition module. The module itself it aftermarket/el cheapo unit that's about 6-7 years old. I think this is where to start.
Is there an easy way to pull the key cylinder/lock on the steering column? 1976 Ford Elite, no tilt, column shift guts. I converted to a floor shifter a while ago. Thanks guys.
Bozz
 

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Ok you need to remove the wire from starter silenoid then put a vom on the wire that runs to your control box watch the neddle or the led to see if voltage is droping when you turn the key. It sound like your losing voltage to me.
 

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I had the control box on my 82 pickup do something simular.It wouldn't start while cranking but the engine would kick just as I let off the key.Bought a cheapie aftermarket one and it solved the problem but only lasted about a year.Bought a new Ford box and no probs for the last 10 years.
 

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I've had similar problems and from my experience it's easy to forget the basic stuff because you are so pissed the engine won't fire. Step back and make sure everything's in order:

Check the fuel level, fuel pump, etc. If you must, disconnect the fuel line form the carb, crank the motor and see what comes out. Make sure the motor getting gas. This sounds suspiciously like a motor that is on dry.

If that checks out, I'd double check the firing order and placement of your distributor. If you have a timing light, hook it to a few spark plug wires and make sure the light shines as you crank it on a few of them. If you have spark (as shown by the timing light) your ignition is probably fine. Make sure the distributor is in the correct position by cranking the engine to TDC and making sure the distributor is in line with the #1 plug (left front cylinder when facing the engine). If you can, double check the alignment of your cam/timing chain.

I have no idea of your previous posts. Maybe you have already checked these things, but be sure. Logic tells me that the odds of the problem being with something simple(distributor, cam, timing, fuel line, etc) outweigh the chance of it being something with the ignition if you have spark.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Wildcat on 2/10/02 2:08pm ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks everybody for the advice. I'm off for a week of business travel so the Twister will have to wait quitely in my garage. In summation: there's fuel to the carb. The floats were fine before I took the motor apart and I didn't f with the carb at all. I marked the dizzy and the block before I pulled it so I know the timing is within 1-2 degrees of where it needs to be. The rotor is pointing right at #1 plug terminal, about 2:00 o'clock. I have not pulled a plug and checked for spark there, but when I do I bet you it sparks once when I let off the key. My wife isn't much help so it's hard to do some of those things.
I'm going to gather my thoughts and assault the thing next Friday when I get back. Have a good week everybody.
 

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Yeah, sounds like the resistor. I have seen that problem before on all sorts of vehicles. The resistor is bypassed in START for maximum fire from the coil, but during RUN, the resistor reduces voltage to the coil to make it last longer. That is the only reason that I know of for the resistor.

Zeek
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Alright, here's an update. New module makes no difference. I checked fire to the plug and there's spark when cranking. There's fuel in the carb and plenty of it squirts down the throat when you hit the acc. pump. What's the deal? The car is still trying to fire when I turn the key back to the off position. Is the switch on the column haywire? With the key on and engine off(obviously) there's juice to the (+) side of the coil and to the ignition module. The coil also has a small bit of juice on the (-) side of the coil in the on position as well. All I have is a test light so my measuring abilities are limited.
Anybody got an ideas? I want to get this baby fired up tomorrow!!!
 

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try using a jumper wire from the positive side of the battery to the red possibly red& light green wire on the ignition module. try to start the car and if it runs you have a bad wiring harness, possible broken connection from re-installing engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm still setting dead in the water. Tried new ignition switch and no luck. Still tries to fire when the switch goes from crank to on and when switch goes from on to off. WTFX2?? I pulled #1 plug to check for fire. With key on and using a screwdriver to jump the solenoid(sp)there was no sparky. There is juice to the dizzy because I checked that with my handy-dandy test light. Is the distributor junk? I am getting pissed! I f#%!ing hate cars...not really but I feel better.
 

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pale rider,

try it with the ignition switch out and
in hand using a screw driver to move the slide in the switch and see if it works

Im guessing its a slide type ignition switch

The lever that moves the ignition switch may
be out of adjustment, so when you release the key back to the on position its moving
the switch just past the on position and killing it.

i had this happen once

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: tbird on 2/21/02 6:02am ]</font>
 
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