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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok here I am again having issues with getting my 302 up and running. Here's what I have,
Accel points eliminator
Stock coil
MSD 8.5 ignition wires
OEM autolite plugs
My problems seem to be no spark going from the distributor to the plugs. After installing the points eliminator there was a small black wire inside the distributor connected to the breaker plates. The instructions didn't say to remove this wire which I believe is the reason I have no spark. Could this be my problem? I left the wire in there but taped off the end.
 

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... My problems seem to be no spark going from the distributor to the plugs.
Does this mean you DO have spark from the coil to the distributor?
After installing the points eliminator there was a small black wire inside the distributor connected to the breaker plates.
There should be no wires in the distributor after removing the points. However, this would not cause a no-spark condition, unless the wire was causing misalignment in the assembly.

Where are did you actually connect the three module wires on your engine? Please be specific.

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My coil is getting voltage from the solenoid wiring and I didn't determine if it was getting spark from the distributor. With the key on the coil gets a full 12 volts. The wiring from the distributor is as follows, red to pos terminal on coil, green to neg terminal on coil, brown to the block.

The distributor is a stock single point, single diaphragm 1970 unit. the alignment isn't screwed up with the wire in there, ill remove it. If all else fails ill put the points back in and try that system again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey pal.... Um.... Did you leave the Dist body to adv. plate GROUND attached? It's supposed to be a simple braided wire but often they're replaced with regular wire.

Red wire Coil + (ALONG with OEM wire powering coil from ignition switch)
Green wire to coil -
Brown wire to block ground.
Is that the black wire inside the dizzy? This is a wire that wasn't to the stock coil it was attached to the breaker plated and base plate.
 

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You can safely remove all wires in the Dist. even the ground wire because the Ignitor carries it's own ground. :)

You Must test COIL + for power "WHILE CRANKING", a test light is perfect for this.

If you have power then, there are other issues, like a Missing ROTOR... (LOL) or the Ignitor going bad. Remove the harness plug and OHM the RED and Green wires. If there is NO continuity and your unit may be bad....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is what my wiring situation is. Pink wire from the ignition switch, still the resistance wire from factory. Its sired correctly from the instructions. Somewhere though I'm not getting spark, any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Haha trust me the rotor is in there, I double checked when I took the photos. OK so an ohm test huh, is this something done with a multimeter? I've been using a power probe.
 

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i did a google search....seems to be a common problem..

Google
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: Re: Ignition Woes

i did a google search....seems to be a common problem..

Trust me I search everything before I post. I just wasn't able to find a solution so I posted.
OK so I got the multimeter on it and it read 3.2 with the key in ign and while cranking so I'm not sure what that means exactly.
 

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I want you to unplug the dist, put the Red multimeter lead on the Red wire going INTO the dist, put the Black on the Green wire. If there is continuity that's great.

Then Put Red multi-meter prong to the Green lead and Black wire to Brown Lead and then crank engine over and see if the lump on dist shaft is triggering the exciter to work it's magic. (may need actual power for this part but do it without first to test it)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK made a little progress with this. I moved the brown wire to a bolt on the block itself and it went back to sputering. So I have spark but maybe not enough. I replaced the accelerator pump diaphragm and now it takes at least one pump to get fuel down the barrels. I didn't touch anything else on the carb. Back to the dizzy, its definitely not 180 out and my wires are still new.
 
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