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Discussion Starter #1
Lost my dad in Feb. 2017
He had in his possession a 1967 Mustang, banana yellow and covered in rust (perhaps pics to come). It's sporting a stock 351 Cleveland with some kind of sport transmission like a "C-4 class tranny"? The car is pretty much mine now, and I've got very few bills to pay with a job supplying me with around $1,200 a month after taxes. I'm an open book and I'm very eager to learn from experienced adults.

To make things clear, this car needs to become road worthy. I'm not hoping for any kind of monster powerful car here.
I want i to look and drive smoothly and safely.
with that being said, SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME WHERE TO START I'M ABSOLUTELY CLUELESS.
Haha, usually a guy like me would have a friend or two from high school they could call and ask for advice, but the friends i kept close were nerds and had no interest in a car rebuild.

This is my first post, so please someone correct me if there are any unspoken rules i may be breaking with asking for some guidance.

I have no intentions of doing work in my garage, its full of junk and no space to be delicate and passionate with a grease pool car like this one. I plan on having just about everything done by a shop near me (one of which i haven't even chosen yet). I basically am looking for some kind of mentor in a way. someone who can give me an option or two in order to even get work started on this car.
Like i said I'm very eager to learn from you guys i know there are a ton of successful restoration stories on here I've looked through quite a few.

What do I know?
-It just got brand new tires around 8 months ago (around the time it stopped running)
-new brake pads (drum)
-basically was rebuilt once before by my father and a friend of his, but then sat in the garage for 20 years or so (im 19 so around there)
-interior is original and in great shape
-in need of ALL AROUND body work...
 

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If it hasn't been started in 20 years then you should begin by draining the gas out of the tank, probably get a new one (cheaper than having your cleaned), flush out the fuel line, new fuel pump, rebuild the carburetor. Then inspect/ rebuild the brakes, flush out the hydraulics.

Up in NJ rust can mean a great deal of things (my car is from NYC and was a basket case). Body and paint will be by far your biggest expense.

It needs to be garaged, otherwise stuff deteriorates very quickly. Rubber window seals aren't like modern cars and they will leak, mice get into everything.

You may end up as I did with my inherited classic, get it running so you can move it around easily and store it for a future date. Mine sat in barns, rented garages and finally my house for almost 30 years until I had the time/ money to do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Fortunately for me and the car, it has been in a locked garage for all that time of sitting, if its rusting in there id imagine its doing it pretty slowly. I definitely dont have the garage space needed to do those things with the fuel lines, tank, and carb. along with a little bit of running gear tlc.

i suppose if i think about it, the car isnt all that complicated of a machine aside from the engine workings and transmission. i also assume creating enough room in my garage to start working in it is a necessity if im even going to start thinking about restoration.

thanks so much for the reply
 

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You said that your garage is full of junk. Junk needs to get sold, donated, or hauled to the dump.

You have to decide what you want to do with the car. If the plan is long term storage, then you have to create a space that is dry. I've had cars damaged in as little as 6 months inside a garage that was too damp. I've also ruined new batteries by not using them. Long -term storage also requires draining the gas, because it turns to shellac. I've ruined a good motor by running 5 year old gas through it.

If you plan on using the car at all or have to move it frequently, then a better strategy is to get it running as I already posted, use pure gas (not E-10), only buy a gallon at a time, add in Stable 360, and start the car at least every two weeks. Get the engine warmed up, drive it out of the garage at least a car length then back in. That will keep the seals from drying out. Also flush the brake hydraulics every three years, since DOT 3 fluid absorbs moisture from the air, then the system rusts internally.

Either way you have to keep rodents out of the car as well. Mothballs in an open tupperware work well for a closed interior. Some more in the air cleaner (ahead of the air filter). Plug the ends of the exhaust pipes.

Also keep tabs on the humidity in the garage. My garage here was dry as a bone for 20 years, but two years ago everything started to rust. Several aerosol cans of paint rusted so bad all the propellant leaked out. After that I installed a small dehumidifier.

Check your state laws with regards to registration, and your insurer for what is covered. ere in NC we can register cars over 35 years old as antiques and save big on taxes, insurance, and no annual inspections are required.
 

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Well Somebody needs to be a killjoy and realistic.

You state that you have $1,200 per month and no experience.

Rusty Mustang body . . . $20,000 and counting . . . that would be 18 months if you don't eat or sleep.

Sorry but you need a reality check.

There are only 2 options. Store it or sell it.

Remember. The car is rusty and it will only get worse the longer you store it.

Good luck with your decision.
 

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Post some pictures - good ones on all sides. Really need to see the condition before anyone can give you real advise. Once that is done we can start to give you more realistic expectations on what you can expect. The best thing I can tell you is get your hands dirty - your young and it scares you to get in and start taking **** apart, but you just got to get over it. I'm 26 and have taught myself everything - youtube is your best friend, read and do your research. I can safely tell you that these older cars are always a work in progress, to take it to a shop anytime something happens you are going to have to have very deep pockets - to make this an affordable hobby you have to do most of your own work and research.

With all that being said, you and only you can come up with YOUR expectation of the car, some folks are perfectly happy driving around a rust bucket as long as it runs well and is safe - and there isn't anything wrong with that (so don't let that $20,000 price above scare you). We have a 60' Falcon, that sat in a barn since the early 90s, with a ton of surface rust that we got street-able for ~$600.

In my opinion- your first step should be to get some good pictures of the car - all around - and some of the undercarriage and post it here - from there the FMF guys can start to give you an idea of just how safe the car is... If deemed safe and mostly surface rust - we can go from there. If it's not safe, then you're going to have some tough choices to make.

Good luck - Get your hands dirty...

-Zig
 

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To me, when you say you want it to be road worthy and safe, then I think the first things to tackle is engine, brakes, steering and suspension. Get the car driveable, so you can use it regularly and not hurt other people, or yourself. The outward appearance is secondary to safety and reliability and I think they last longer if they are driven, rather than just sitting. You don't have an original engine, as you state it is a 351 Cleveland and I don't believe that engine was available in 1967, maybe the trans was swapped in, too. This may make it a little tougher to work with as original systems may have been changed, or modified with the swap. Everything is expensive, especially if you're paying someone to do the work, but Mustangs have a lot of aftermarket support, so parts should be relatively easy to come by. Good luck and post some pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Of course a reality check is much appreciated, but i fear it's in vain. To explain better, my only hope is to get it back on the road again. i want it to drive.
Its looks are of least importance, although still important don't get me wrong.
im looking into specialty shops and regular automotive shops now that can take apart my running gear all around the car and replace what needs to be replaced.
but even before that step, im really just in search of somewhere i can haul it to where they can just get it to run. if i can confirm it runs, then that's a spark of both hope and motivation, as i haven't heard it rumble or seen it move in over a year.
 

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You're entire post made me smile Zig, this car means more to me than restoring it and making it a trophy. when i next get some time off, im gonna dig that car out of the garage and get a closer look at it. Hopefully by the time i get around to posting pictures people are still coming across my post, advise on what to do and not do is always welcome.
 
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