[cashmad]

Hi folks.
I've removed the points and installed the Pertronix Ignitor 1. I've got it hooked up but 2 things are happening (or aren't). First, when I connect the + side of the battery and rub the wrench against the car while tightening, I get a little *zap* and spark action. It's hooked up, lights work, engine turns so I assume this to be a normal occurrence? Negative is hooked up too so the circle is complete.
Now, engine turns over but there is clearly no spark happening.
I've got 2 wires that lead from the Pertronix, the red going to the + on the coil and the - going to the negative on the coil. On the points I removed, there was only 1 wire (+). Can someone tell me if the black wire is in fact supposed to go to the - terminal on the coil (makes sense to be but then again...)

'64 Galaxe ragtop with 390 stock engine.

 

[5.0 Chero]

First, when I connect the + side of the battery and rub the wrench against the car while tightening, I get a little *zap* and spark action. It's hooked up, lights work, engine turns so I assume this to be a normal occurrence? Negative is

First never ground the + side of the Battery to the body frame on=r any metal on the car.........always hook up the negative - side last and unhook first!!!!!!!

It has been years since I have hooked up one of those POS Pertronicx I will have to check and see if I still have the wiring Diagrams stashed away

 

[cashmad]

I didn't have it grounded to the frame, the negative was hooked up (first though...). While tightening the + side, the wrench rubbed the frame a couple times and sparked...this is what seemed odd to me.

 

[5.0 Chero]

I didn't have it grounded to the frame, the negative was hooked up (first though...). While tightening the + side, the wrench rubbed the frame a couple times and sparked...this is what seemed odd to me.

Metal conducts electricity The wrench in metal negative side is hooked up metal wrench on positive terminal hitting metal frame = positive side of battery straight to negative side of battery so yes you didhave it grounded through the wrench, that is why the negative is all ways first off and last on.

 

[5.0 Chero]

Ok I dug up my wiring dia and yes from the igniter the red side goes to the positive side of the coil and the black to the negative side of the coil

You did leave the wire that was originally on the positive side of coil there correct? you should have the red Pertronix wire hooked to the positive side of the coil with the factory wiring

 

[PSIG]

+1 for disconnecting the (-) battery cable first, and re-attaching last. In-fact, you do not have to disconnect the (+) terminal at all to break the "power loop". As the entire chassis and all metal parts are grounded to the negative (-) battery terminal, you will of course get sparks if you 'connect' the (+) terminal to any metal that is already grounded to the (-) terminal, with any metallic object.

As for the PerTronix Ignitor 1, you are correct, RED to coil (+) and BLACK to coil (-). However, if you sort through the crappy PerTronix directions, you'll see the better option is to connect the BLACK wire to the coil (-) and attach the RED wire directly to full power (before the resistor) at the ignition switch. Although thousands of folks have just attached both wires to teh coil successfully, those that have had issues are mostly ones that have wired this way to the coil. You can leave the wiring as it is and try it out, and it will probably do fine. However, if you have any new issues with starting or missing at various rpms, follow the original directions or the copy I modified in the pic below.

David

To avoid or fix issues with the module receiving low voltage through the resistor, wire it in according to the directions, as highlighted below:

 

[cashmad]

the factory wire that was on the positive went to the points system, which I removed. So now, there's only the Pertronix red wire. I'll snap a picture of the distributor setup...it seems correct but there just ain't no spark!

 

[5.0 Chero]

Now comes the confusing part the igniter module (part that took the place of the points) needs 12v+ all the time most likely you have resistor wire going to you coil that will only give you about 8 volts. You will need to supply full 12 volts to the igniter by wiring straight from the ign switch or by adding a relay,

 

[5.0 Chero]

the factory wire that was on the positive went to the points system, which I removed. So now, there's only the Pertronix red wire. I'll snap a picture of the distributor setup...it seems correct but there just ain't no spark!

you need the factory wire on there too

 

[5.0 Chero]

Thanks Mr Pressure. I did not have a scan of the wiring diagram

 

[FEandGoingBroke]

Damnnnnnnit people! Does NOBODY see what I saw in the first 14 seconds of reading his thread?

Yeah yeah grounding the battery + is funny as hell when tightening the terminal. LOL

But the guy REMOVED THE FEED WIRE FROM THE COIL!!!!

YOU MUST HAVE VOLTAGE TO THE COIL silly billy. Put the Factory wire BACK on the coil+ ALONG with the red one for the Pertronix and you will start right up.....

 

[5.0 Chero]

Damnnnnnnit people! Does NOBODY see what I saw in the first 14 seconds of reading his thread?

Yeah yeah grounding the battery + is funny as hell when tightening the terminal. LOL

But the guy REMOVED THE FEED WIRE FROM THE COIL!!!!

YOU MUST HAVE VOLTAGE TO THE COIL silly billy. Put the Factory wire BACK on the coil+ ALONG with the red one for the Pertronix and you will start right up.....

No I do not think nobody else caught that or told him to put it back on..

Oh wait yea I guess we did,

 

[cashmad]

Glad there's some humour in this...my signature does say "terrible mechanic".
The question that stumps me is this. The only (*there was only 1) wire that went from the distributor to the coil was attached to the points that I removed. I don't get my connecting the wire that leads to the points that are no longer connected will solve my issue.
Maybe I missed something along the "remove points and wire, install Pertronix and connect wires" part of the process?

at least I'm good at being a father!

 

[FEandGoingBroke]

Ok I dug up my wiring dia and yes from the igniter the red side goes to the positive side of the coil and the black to the negative side of the coil

You did leave the wire that was originally on the positive side of coil there correct? you should have the red Pertronix wire hooked to the positive side of the coil with the factory wiring

OK I see it but it's obscure... You only asked if he left it on, but didn't tell him it needed to be there....

 

[FEandGoingBroke]

Glad there's some humour in this...my signature does say "terrible mechanic".
The question that stumps me is this. The only (*there was only 1) wire that went from the distributor to the coil was attached to the points that I removed. I don't get my connecting the wire that leads to the points that are no longer connected will solve my issue.
Maybe I missed something along the "remove points and wire, install Pertronix and connect wires" part of the process?

at least I'm good at being a father!

Works like this overview:

Power to coil + charges the coil.

Coil - side goes into points.

The Pertronix needs 12V to create the open close signal to the - side of the coil so it can kaboom.

That's why you needed 12V to the pertronix also.
Cool?

 

[cashmad]

heading to rejig now. It makes sense but I still don't get where the 2nd wire comes from. The pertronix has 1 red and 1 black wire. Red to + of coil and black to - of coil. The 2nd red wire is a mystery to me...but maybe it'll be cleared up in 4 minutes.

thx all

 

[FEandGoingBroke]

Oh schitt not again.

In your firewall harness coming OUT from the firewall to your ignition coil is a red wire with a blue stripe. THAT goes to the + side of the coil right where the pertronix wire goes.


Cool beans now? THAT wire gives the coil the 12V it needs and gives the Pertronix the 12V it needs as well.

PSIG said to run a separate 12V to the pertronix, but they work perfectly either way in my rigs.

 

[PSIG]

PSIG said to run a separate 12V to the pertronix, but they work perfectly either way in my rigs.

I said to run it with a separate wire IF he had starting or missing issues, and that most folks don't. I also included a pic showing the original power wire and Pertronix RED to the coil (+) and BLACK to the coil (-). Again - there should be 3 wires on the coil - two on (+) and one on (-).

David

 

[Comechero65]

I have installed 3 Pertronix modules and have always left the pink (ballast) wire in circuit. Pertronix tells you 'for best performance, bypass the pink wire and wire 12 v directly to the + term of the coil'. They never actually say it won't work. Its always worked for me.

If after connecting it correctly and it appears not to work, usually after disconnecting the batt and reconnecting the Pertronix will normally reset itself after a momentary short or reversal of voltage. Built in safety design.

Make sure you reinstall the ground wire fron the movable plate in the dist to ground. The Pertronix willl not work without it.

For the best bang for the buck use the Pertronix III. Costs a little more but it is a complete ign system and is hidden inside the dist. Try stuffing an MSD-6A inside yiour dist. That's the equivalent.
R

 

[5.0 Chero]

OK I see it but it's obscure... You only asked if he left it on, but didn't tell him it needed to be there....

I thought this did tell him that?

Ok I dug up my wiring dia and yes from the igniter the red side goes to the positive side of the coil and the black to the negative side of the coil

You did leave the wire that was originally on the positive side of coil there correct? you should have the red Pertronix wire hooked to the positive side of the coil with the factory wiring

But then again after reading the rest of the posts maybe not clearly enough!