I took it for a spin last night. All I can say is it is like night and day the way that thing shift.
Larry did you see the arm I made up? That is what I had to do to get my Hurst shifter to match up. A little trial and error but not too bad.Let me know how it works. I need to put just the arm on my trans so I can get the detentes to line up on my MegaShifter.
Iwantmore,Larry did you see the arm I made up? That is what I had to do to get my Hurst shifter to match up. A little trial and error but not too bad.
David this is what I was going to use. but it puts my shift arm lower than my pan. So it will not work with what I need it to do. My car is pretty low and I don't want to hit the ground with my shifter. form what I understand the Winters sidewinder will work with my trans for what I need it to do. May make a custom console to mount it in my car. I want it to look somewhat stock looking.Another option for adapting column or floor shifters of any compatible kind is the Lokar ATA-1004 shift arm for the AODE, 4R70W, or 4R75W. About $50 online.
You use what you need and cut off the rest. The arm length to match your shifter is whatever it is. It can't be shorter, and it does not have to be longer. I'm not pushing for you to use this option, just saying that a downward arm for a "push-to-Park" floor shifter has to be a certain length no matter what. Just cut off the excess. The only alternative with that style shifter is to run a longer cable around from the front and bracket it to the bellhousing, to use an "up" shift arm. That's probably what I'll do on the next project with a floor-mount gate shifter I have.
I also do my own harnesses, and I understand what they mean by problems, as there are different connectors and wiring schemes across the years. The customer goes oops, and Baumann gets the blame most of the time I bet. Even if the customers are understanding, it's still hours on the phone to fix it by remote control.I'm going with the Baumann $425, but I'm using the wiring harness that came with the 4r.already pinned out the harness and the Baumann will follow...
they use to include the wiring harness for the $700 price, but now you need to buy it separate. Also I was told they got too many service calls when guys tried to do the wiring themselves. Its pretty straight forward, if you just think of it for a minute... I am sure that by now thousands of these swaps have been done and yet the info is still lacking...
Flexplate - 164-tooth C4/C5/AOD/AODE/4R70/etc., with the balance you need.I'm still a little confused on what flex plate to use
what spacer to use,
Any small-block or Cleveland 164-T automatic trans starter. If you want the geared Ford mini-starter :tup:, use the one off any '92~'95 to '03 5.8, 5.0, 4.2 or 3.8 trucks/cars.and what about the starter, do you need one from the same type of car you got the tranny out of or?
The 4R70 has a thick-wall yoke with a 1330 U-joint. If you need a smaller 1310 U-joint (and do not want to use a 5-134X adapter joint), then swap the tail shaft housing for an E0 AOD version (of the correct length for your 4R) that uses the thinner C4/AOD/T5 style yoke.still need the correct yoke,
Be aware, Mercon is rated for 1997 and older clutches in these things. 1998+ must use Mercon V synthetic spec fluid. Where did you get the deal on the fluid?just bought 4 gallons of Mercon $11.50 a gallon...