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PSIG

Earlier you asked where I got my Mercon, It was at Wal Mart
but now I re read your posting, that you need Mercon V
I'll need to recheck the container..
I already put one gallon in the converter...

I'm off to the wreaking yard this morning for a "yoke" or the
whole drive shaft.
Also the EEC just to have it, and the pig tail from the trans to
the EEC. and the gear select indicator if I can get it...
not up on these new cars to much...
I know that a couple of you are doing the 62, 63 Fords as I am
I'm thinking of using the cable from my 77 ranchero to
set the shift lever, should work for the column.
Any of you who have done there own wiring, have any suggestions
I said in an earlier posting that I have found a diagram that shows
the pin out of the US shifter, but the one for the 4r is different then
what my harness looks like...
Best
PS: I hope you all had a wonderful Thanksgiving...you never know
when they might outlaw the holliday...
 

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Hi Jr
Nice , what did you do for a trans support?
Im off tomorrow to get a "yoke" but I think I'll take the whole
drive shaft, its half off at ecology...
Did you use your drive shaft what about lenth, shorten it or
make it longer?
I'm waiting for a little better weather before a paint the firewall
then install the engine\trans, hopefully by Sunday
Best
Dave,

I used the stock crossmember but. Welded a 1/4" plate on each side that allowed me to move back the trans mount back, and drilled holes and made them into slots for adjustability. I used the drive shaft that I had when I was using my AOD. I did have to shorten it about an inch.

Larry
 

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Well just back from the wreaking yard, and yes the 30% chance of
rain was 100% when I got there.. it was pouring, so ended up with
nothing...there was a few trucks with the 4r in them, last time I was
there, there was like 3 cars with the drive shaft laying on the ground
not today...and I did not feel like swimming...
Jr. how was your wiring:
you said you used a EEC and did a software update?
which part of the harness did you use, or did you have
the harness from the EEC to the 4r?
Man I was looking for the EEC and could not even find
it..in the engine compartment..
best
 

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I'd like to hear more about the EEC V controller also
Just back from the wreaking yard again, third trip today
don't ask, but I'll tell you anyway, first time too much rain, not
prepaired
Second time I found a Crown Vic up high on tires easy access
so it was easy to get under it. has an aluminum drive shaft
so turns out they are 12mm bolt heads, don't have any with me
but I borrowed one from a guy, no go, they were in solid, so
home I went, got the big guns out, "5lb" short sledge
back I go with a 12mm box and the hammer.
got it this time.. would love to use it if its the right lenth,
and I can adapt it to the Lincoln rear.
Oh the drive shaft says "Police" on it..
I'm done for the day...
Best
 

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PSIG


Any of you who have done there own wiring, have any suggestions
I said in an earlier posting that I have found a diagram that shows
the pin out of the US shifter, but the one for the 4r is different then
what my harness looks like...
Dave,

From what I understand there was a connector change on the transmissions. I can't remember which connection. There was a change on the harnesses and they were a few year specific. PSIG would be your man on what years go with what.

Larry
 

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Jr. how was your wiring:
you said you used a EEC and did a software update?
which part of the harness did you use, or did you have
the harness from the EEC to the 4r?
Man I was looking for the EEC and could not even find
it..in the engine compartment..
best
Dave,

I used the US Shift Controler and wiring. Didn't use stock controler and wiring..

Larry
 

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Any of you who have done there own wiring, have any suggestions
I said in an earlier posting that I have found a diagram that shows
the pin out of the US shifter, but the one for the 4r is different then
what my harness looks like...
The manual shift lever position sensor (MLPS) in '92-'97 are one type, and '98+ are another type. You cannot mix the two. Pre-'98 uses a series of resistances to indicate to the controller which gear is selected by the shifter. The '98+ uses a series of switches.

The connector on the two types (and the pin-out) is different (early is oval and later is more rectangular). It's not a big deal though, as you can switch the MLPS to the type your controller needs. Be sure your controller is expecting the type of MLPS you are going to use.

Is that what you are asking?

David

Set of '92-'97 connectors stripped from a 1997 harness. Note the early-version oval MLPS connector:

 

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First let me say, this is a great web site, over the years
well long before the internet..it was hard to do things from scratch
I know some guys do and some of us think we can..
So I'll start with a (explitive) deleted.
Today while bolting my 4r to to my 4r, the bellhouse cracked.
no not the torque converter bolts. all botls were in.. the
bellhousing was flush with the block... but it cracked, so its
on me. I'll have a certified welder see if its repairable.
But for the rest of the day, I hope no one pisses me off..
We're haveing our "Fall" weather, one day rain the nest
sun shine, so I"ve set up parts of the wagon for primer
probably tomorrow, then a base coat, and clear coat..
I the tranny is a problem, I'll use my C4.. I need to keep this
build tight... can't afford to waste time or money...
about the us shift 1.. from the "wiring" diagram on the
baumann website, its like only 5 wires, 2 are pos and neg the other
3 are the posision selector.. why is that so hard?
Best
Dave
 

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OOOppppsss

I believe I set the torque converter in to the stop
but just to be sure, I read on some site that you messure
from the face of the bellhousing to the front of the TQ and the
distance is (xxxx) anyone heard of this and what is the
distance?
Here are 2 pic of the main connectors from the 4r
this is a 2001 mustang 4r.. wireing harness was still attached
to the 4r IMG_0313.jpg

IMG_0311.jpg
 

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578 Posts
First let me say, this is a great web site, over the years
well long before the internet..it was hard to do things from scratch
I know some guys do and some of us think we can..
So I'll start with a (explitive) deleted.
Today while bolting my 4r to to my 4r, the bellhouse cracked.
no not the torque converter bolts. all botls were in.. the
bellhousing was flush with the block... but it cracked, so its
on me. I'll have a certified welder see if its repairable.
But for the rest of the day, I hope no one pisses me off..
We're haveing our "Fall" weather, one day rain the nest
sun shine, so I"ve set up parts of the wagon for primer
probably tomorrow, then a base coat, and clear coat..
I the tranny is a problem, I'll use my C4.. I need to keep this
build tight... can't afford to waste time or money...
about the us shift 1.. from the "wiring" diagram on the
baumann website, its like only 5 wires, 2 are pos and neg the other
3 are the posision selector.. why is that so hard?
Best
Dave

I am sorry Dave that you have to go through that. I did the same thing with my AOD. Unfortunately, I had to learn the hard way also. All I can say is chalk it up to lessons learned. I definately rotate that torque converter several times until it seats itself all the way now.

Larry
 

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The manual shift lever position sensor (MLPS) in '92-'97 are one type, and '98+ are another type. You cannot mix the two. Pre-'98 uses a series of resistances to indicate to the controller which gear is selected by the shifter. The '98+ uses a series of switches.

The connector on the two types (and the pin-out) is different (early is oval and later is more rectangular). It's not a big deal though, as you can switch the MLPS to the type your controller needs. Be sure your controller is expecting the type of MLPS you are going to use.

Is that what you are asking?

David

Set of '92-'97 connectors stripped from a 1997 harness. Note the early-version oval MLPS connector:


David,

I am amazed with your depth of knowledge on all things Ford. When you speak up I definitely listen.

Larry
 

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Dave - your photos are still not showing-up for me. May I suggest you upload them to a photo storage site, and paste the link in your posts. A site I use alot now is imgur.com. It's real easy and no sign-up or passwords. Just go there, and in the Upload images box, click "computer". Find your photo and click on it. A box will pop-up, and you can just click "start Uploading" or click "Edit" first if you want to resize it or anything.

Once you click to upload, it will store it and give a list of links. You want to copy the link that starts with "[/B]" and just paste it into your post. It will show-up when you preview or post your message.

[U][B]Larry[/B][/U] - thanks for that. I hope some of the stuff I've learned (much from many others) is useful to someone. Ii like to give back whenever I can. Good karma and all that, you know. ;)

David
 

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hey JR

Although it could have been the TC was not set deep enough
I really don't think that is wat caused the problem, I think
the case got caught on the header just enough...because that
bolt hole (ear) completly broke off..
Yes learning, a life long indever. anyway for the time being
I'll just use my C4...
This weekend hope to have engine\trans installed
did some painting yesterday and today... firewall\ fender lip
got to keep on some type of schedule...
best
 

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Hey Guys. First off I want to say thanks for such a thorough thread! I spoke with Kevin over at Baumann about my failed AOD and he agreed that upgrading to a 4R70W would be a smart choice.

Question, what is the length of the 4R70w out of a Mustang from the bell housing to output shaft end. I have a longer version of an AOD and am hoping the Mustang 4R70W will work without having to build a longer driveshaft

Thanks in Advance :)
 

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57F100 - welcome to the forums. I went and measured a "standard" or shorter version just now at about 31-1/2". Like the AOD, there are two lengths, and the longer one has an output shaft and housing 1" longer. By memory, the standard 4R sounds about the same as the long AOD. Please post your long AOD length for future reference.

David
 

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... about 31-1/2".
I'll correct that. I went and re-measured and found I bent the tape slightly. Using a straight tape and straightedge, I get closer to 31-3/4 to the end of the housing. As the yoke is in-place I can't see the output, but they protrude slightly, so the true OAL from bell face to output shaft end will be closer to 32". Oops.

David
 

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I have two AOD's at my disposal tonight…

90 Crown Vic AOD = 31 13/16
Longer version (E4 valve body so guessing 84?) = 32 1/4

Since I am building a new subframe (crown vic swap), I am considering moving the motor back 1/2" if I have clearance on the floor. AOD has plenty of room at this point.

Does anyone know if the AOD dip stick or tube = the same length? Hoping to scout out a trans tomorrow. :)
 

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I used the dip stick and tube from my AOD on my 4r70w. Don't know if it is right, but it works for me. No leaks.

Larry
 
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