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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
It's hard to see the marks on my balancer, so I ordered timing tape from Summit. Silly question, but when I go to put it on, do I need to line up the "0" on the tape with the "0" on the balancer? I was told it doesn't matter which way I put it on but that doesn't make sense. Does it or doesn't it matter?

Wait.. I think maybe they said it doesn't matter where I put the pointer...that would make more sense.
 

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The tape won't last. Just clean up the balancer and use some white paint to high light the marks.
 

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It's hard to see the marks on my balancer, so I ordered timing tape from Summit. Silly question, but when I go to put it on, do I need to line up the "0" on the tape with the "0" on the balancer? I was told it doesn't matter which way I put it on but that doesn't make sense. Does it or doesn't it matter?

Wait.. I think maybe they said it doesn't matter where I put the pointer...that would make more sense.
Um... none of that makes sense...

You line up the 0* mark, yes, and make sure you wrap the tape the correct way I.E. make sure your BTDC and ATDC marks are on the correct side of the balance, don't flip it around backwards, haha.

Also, make sure you order the correct sized tape for your balancer diameter
 

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Wait.. I think maybe they said it doesn't matter where I put the pointer...that would make more sense.
That's it. Once you find TDC with a piston stop, you can put the pointer anywhere you want, and 0° at that pointer. Redtail is right - be positive it's the correct size for your balancer diameter. Since they don't last, you can also stick it on, and then use a Swiss file to make permanent notches at each line for future use. Rub it with chalk to highlight when you want to use it. Every 5° is actually enough to eyeball accurately. If you are going to do this much or on different engines, instead get a dial-back timing light and just use the TDC mark to curve it.

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's it. Once you find TDC with a piston stop, you can put the pointer anywhere you want, and 0° at that pointer. Redtail is right - be positive it's the correct size for your balancer diameter. Since they don't last, you can also stick it on, and then use a Swiss file to make permanent notches at each line for future use. Rub it with chalk to highlight when you want to use it. Every 5° is actually enough to eyeball accurately. If you are going to do this much or on different engines, instead get a dial-back timing light and just use the TDC mark to curve it.

David
I dont have a piston stop, plus that would require removing the heads wouldn't it? Shouldn't TDC already be marked on the balancer (0*)?

So you're saying there are two ways to do this?

1) Line up 0 on tape with 0 on balancer or:
2) Find TDC and place tape with 0 at whereever I want the pointer to be?
 

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I dont have a piston stop, plus that would require removing the heads wouldn't it? Shouldn't TDC already be marked on the balancer (0*)?

So you're saying there are two ways to do this?

1) Line up 0 on tape with 0 on balancer or:
2) Find TDC and place tape with 0 at whereever I want the pointer to be?
No, you do not have to remove the heads. The outer ring frequently slips. Use a piston stop and be sure. John--Las Vegas
 

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My Summit tape has held up a bunch of years. I knew from comparing TDC to my damper marks that they were 1/2 degree off using the factory pointer (which I thought was pretty good). I removed the damper, wire brushed off all of the gunk and old paint, wiped with solvent, shot on a couple coats of primer, three coats of satin black, installed the tape adding 1/2*, then shot three coats of clear over everything. Primer, paint, and clear were all Krylon products, they dry really fast. The black damper with yellow marks really pops.
 

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I've seen factory balancers almost 4° off before. Use a screw-in piston stop (see pic below) to find true TDC. $7 to $10 at local stores or online. Turn the crank to indicated TDC. Remove #1 plug, screw the stop in with the rod screwed out. Run the rod in with your fingers until it touches the piston. turn the crank 180° and screw the rod in 1 turn and lock it with the jam nut if it has one. Gently bring the crank back to TDC. It will stop short when it bumps into the stop. Temporarily mark the balancer at the pointer (wherever you put it) with a fine marker, tape or something. Rotate the crank backwards until it bumps the stop again. Mark it.

With the two marks now bracketing true TDC, put a permanent mark exactly half-way between the marks. That is your true TDC, and where you should be to begin any ignition, cam, or valve train work.

David

Stops are cheap and can make a big difference in the quality and power of your engine build and tune:
 
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