My heads were shaved .050" (TFS on 289), how can I tell if I need to shave the intake, and how much? I am haveing trouble with the local machine shops. They think it might work with "performance gaskets". Yea.
I hate to throw rocks/stones/whatever, but MOST machinists know this kinda stuff 'off the top of their head'. (at least mine does).
2 years ago when we threw together the 357, we shaved/planed/cut the hell outa everything.
My machinist, (Larry Seitlitz/Pro Machine), literally bounced the numbers in his head as we're trial fitting everything. Needless to say, everything fit beautifully the first time..........Maybe I got lucky with my machinist.......then again, he does like 90% performance work.......?
I took the heads to place #1. They said they could do the intake, but it would cost a lot. Place #2 said they could do it for $60. Then they call and say they cant find the info on how to do it. I go back to #1, get the info from them and take it to #2. #2 calls the next day and say to trial fit it cause it might work with "performance gaskets" cause they are thicker. I run down there to get my intake away from them. Thicker gaskets?? If anything, they need to be thinner. That is why we are shaving it, right? Lady at the front said the machinest studied the info I got him for a couple hours, and was still confused. I understood it on my first read.
Called Total Engine Airflow. They said they trial fit it and go from there, and not to take off more than .025".
When you cut the head on a flat mill, since the intake surfaces are at an angle it pulls them in slightly. That can require a little shave on the intake or a thinner gasket. I think they suggested a thicker intake gasket to pull the intake ends up off the block but that isn't really the right way to fix that. It will set up an intake mismatch of major proportions.
I'm running with .030 off (different heads) and I didn't have to do anything to the intake. I may have a problem when I go to the .021 head gaskets though. I hadn't thought about that until now.
I seem to recall somebody telling me that you shave the intake sides at 1/2 your head cut and the ends the same amount as your head cut. I'm not for sure on this any more though.
i am really shocked at the confusion on this seubject. set the intake on the engine with heads installed and no gaskets. using a feeler gage measure the gap between the intake and the head at the bottom of the intake(hint make this meaurement at the front of the intake). add the total measurement from both sides ,and remove one fourth of the total from each side of the intake.
With only that much cut off you should be able to get by with just removing the end cork gaskets and just use silicone where this will give you the extra clearance you need!! You only can sit the intake on and see if the bolt holes and ports line up from there!! I just put together a 331 with 54 cc Canfield heads from DSS racing.I didnot want them to put the engine together so I could see what I paid for before I put it together,IF YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN since i'm a mechanic!! When putting on the intake it was not even close!! Spent 400 dollars just to have the intake angle milled to fit with arp intake bolts with racing gaskets!!I GUESS I SHOULD HAVE LET THEM PUT IT TOGETHER,BUT FOR A SET OF 2500 DOLLAR CYLINDER HEADS,AND A 3500 DOLLAR BLOCK,YOU NEED TO KNOW WHAT YOU GOT!!!!!!!
On 2001-12-25 21:55, 63SportsCoupe wrote:
Just curious, but does anyone make a scope with a light on it that you can shove down the runners to "see" what's happening in the real world with the ports/gaskets???