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Discussion Starter #1
First if you can pick some ARP intake bolts, if not make sure you clean your originals, and chase the threads in the heads, make sure all surfaces are clean enough to eat off of, I use brake cleaner on a rag to wipe down all surfaces after the cleaning is done, also before I start cleaning I put down rags in the lifter valley and in the intake ports, water jackets, also plug the hole in front of the lifter valley where the distributor gear is exposed. Next get some all thread cut 4 pieces about 4 or 5 inces long and screw them into the 4 ( 1 in the front and back of each head) corner holes in the heads, this will help you hold the intake gaskets in place as well as set the intake straight down. Put a 1/4" bead of silicone along the front and rear rails, this elimnates the need for the supplied end seals, and a little around the water jackets. Place the gaskets on the heads, then start the intake down the long bolts you installed untill in is positioned on the heads squarely, then put the rest of the intake bolt in finger tight, remove the all thread and install the remaining 4 bolts, tighten evenly untill you have reached recommended torque values.
 

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I think Nasty covered most of it.
most head gaskests have little tabs that hold the intake gaskets on. I am using the printoseal gaskets #1250. They are $19.95 from www.summitracing.com Any good parts store should have them for about that price.
 

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Nastystang did a good job. From my own experience, make double sure on your torque settings. I'll never forget the horrible sound of a $400 two four/holley flanged polished intake going "tink" as the ear on the back right of the intake broke 'cause I wasn't paying attention and torqued her down too much
 

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It might sound stupid but double check to make sure you didn;t leave any rags,tools or whatever in the lifter valley or intake ports before you drop that new intake on.Also keep checking the torque readings as I find you usually have to go around all the bolts a few times until the intake finally compresses the gaskets and all the torques will remain the same.
 

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Probably most everything has been said but to get the max flow to the heads you can check the transition from the intake to the head in the intake ports. Make sure the gasket is not restricting flow (not protruding into the lumen of the intake port). Also check for a step-transition from the intake to the head. This can contribute to turbulant airflow. This can be tricky to check, see the FM archives for details on how to do this, it will either involve lights, mirrors and grinding or a coat hanger to feel around and grinding depending if you are running an RPM or dual plane style manifold.

Lastly, like everybody else said, pay close attention when torqing the manifold. I think the spec's require it to be torqued to 20 ft/lbs or so (double check that number). I've found that once the gaskets and silicone are in place and the manifold is ready to be torqued. First, hand tighten all the (well cleaned) bolts. Then tighten in 5 ft/lb increments from the center bolts working to the outside and alternate from one side to the other. For example, tighten the bolt over the # 6 cylinder, then the #3 cylinder, then the #7 cylinder, then the #2 cylinder, etc. This helps ensure the silicone gets where it needs to be and that the manifold is torqued evenly. Always triple check your final torque value. Because you own a Ford you do not need to remove the distributor, unlike those poor chevy owners. Although the damn water port on the front of the intake can be tricky to replace....

Lastly, be sure you put gasket sealer (not silicone) around the intake ports on the heads and intake to ensure a good seal. You might not need to do this with certain gaskets.


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Wildcat on 2/9/02 12:03am ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Wildcat on 2/9/02 12:05am ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just as a last thought, check your intake bolts after a few heat cycles, the gaskets will settle and the bolts can become loose over time then the oil leeks come to haunt you.
 

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Putting an intake on a SBF is easy as cake compared to SBC intakes. I put one on a SBC for the first time a few weeks ago. Talk about an all day task. Nothing like having to pull out a big ugly HEI distributor just to change the intake. Also, the bolts on the inside next to the carb are miserable to get to. Just try fitting a torque wrench on those. On second thought, don't. Just stick with Fords!

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 70grande on 2/9/02 10:52am ]</font>
 

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I used the RTV Black on my intake end rails with excellent results. I only use the copper stuff when it is exhaust or very high heat related. The black seems to work best on anything oil related. It also keeps everything sealed up tight and leakproof in my T-5 transmission.
 
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