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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a short somewhere in the circuit for the interior lights. I replaced the fuse and when I put the cable back on the battery it made a small spark and popped the fuse instantly. I had the doors closed, and I tried it twice just to make sure.

I hope to chase down that short and fix it today, does anyone know it there's a particular location that commonly develops a short in that circuit? Would sure be great if I can find it without having to chase down the whole system.

Thanks
 

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Try disconnecting the power feed to your clock. The auto winding mechanism usually seizes up causing a short circuit.
 

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Like was said check the clock , if that is not work you way to the door switch, glove box light,courtest lights under dash, two lights in back seat area, ash tray light. The system has two wires green and yellow and dark blue that comes off the light switch. The dark blue wire is the main power source.
 

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on our 4 door, the rear door wiring is a stupid design, the wire slides thru a tube every time the door moves, both sides were broke...the fronts have a tube that moves with the door, the wire flexes inside the cowl area, has a fair amount of room, I retaped ours just because the cloth sheath was showing a little wear...IIRC the wires run under the aluminum door threshold, someone could easily pinch one there if the wires not laying in its little trough.
a bad lightbulb CAN blow fuses, but pretty rare...had one that a piece of filament support dropped across the base wires, sometimes a broken filament will still illuminate but get extremely hot until it finally pops, but the heat can melt the solder tip of the bulb/pad on the socket, and make the wires discolored/brittle...my moms 80 tbird had one in the third brakelight that did this- it melted the housing, wouldnt have found it, but she saw the smoke.

some(dont think on 65, but maybe) interior bulbs are the 2 wire/2 tip style bulbs where the outer shell isnt a ground contact...if someone put a single tip bulb in there, it dead shorts the socket

my 2 cents- turn everything off, unhook battery, check ohms across your battery wires- only resistance in a 65 should be the clock and the interior lights if a door opened(if you have a modern radio, the memory wire will show a little resistance, but probably a couple hundred ohms)...put a fuse in, open any door, should show near 0 ohms as its been blowing fuses...move the doors while watching the meter for a broken,moving wire, then start pulling bulbs one at a time, unplug clock until the meter shows a few ohms increase(odds are youll see a damaged bulb or socket) , unhook meter, connect battery, you should have lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You guys nailed it! Disconnected the clock and all is well. Thanks for making that a simple job.

Too bad about the clock, it just stopped working recently and I didn't make the mental connection between it and the lights. No great loss I guess since it gained about a half hour per day so I couldn't use it to tell time anyway. Does anyone make a tach that would fit in place of the clock? That would be too cool...
 
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