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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Please, God, tell me it isn't. I just went through three days of hell totally revamping the top end in my '68. Got it all put back together finally but the damn thing just wouldn't start, kept trying to fire but just wouldn't catch. I tested compression on #2 and got 60 lbs, and that's when it hit me, I don't think I properly aligned the new timing set! Please, please, please tell me I am not going to have to tear this whole thing apart again to replace valves.
 

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You are probably going to have to drop the timing cover and re-set before worrying about anything else... If you get the timing set correctly then still have no compression, that's when you need some valves that aren't bent....


FE
 

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Align the timing set. Then with the crank at TDC and the valve cover off of the # 1 cylinder look to see that the exhaust valve has just closed and the instake is about to open ( rotate the crank back and forth. Then install your distributor with the rotor pointing to spark plug wire #1. Your ingine is set to 0 thiing and should start. Set timing advance as appropriate and no, a 289 is not an interference engine as stock. Stu
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, it seems to be running better and better as I drive it more. I did a full port job to the heads and lapped the valves, and cleaned several *pounds* of crud out of it. This motor has 150k miles on it and has never so much as even had a valve cover off. Original untouched carburetor (2bbl), etc. Even still has the original PCV valve! It ran good but I figured it could probably use a refresh.

I took the front cover off and the stock timing set was trashed, you could just about remove the chain by hand it was so loose, so I replaced that. I kept the stock cam cause it was in great shape, but installed new lifters while I was in there.

On a side note, I took the cam out and compared it side by side with some calipers to a 351W cam, and the 289 cam had significantly more lift and duration! I don't understand that. I don't know what brand of cam this was, it was obviously new, but the only number on it was "212222" stamped on the back.

Anyways, it seems to have gained some power from the work and it runs smoother and quieter too. (Under the hood anyway, it sounds much healthier out the back.
) Gotta take it back to the track and see if it'll do better than the 16.8s it managed last time.

Hey, here's a question for you guys- has anyone ever hopped up one of these Autolite 2100 carbs? Obviously there is only so fast you can go with a 2bbl carb, but hey, I've got lots of skill and tools but not much money, so I'd like to tinker with this thing and see what I can get out of it. What about the 2 bbl intake, any gains to be had from opening it up some?

My best friend is a cool V8 guy, but he's got a Sentra SE-R for his daily driver, and he is pretty convinced that this little 289 ain't gonna smoke him any time soon. I beg to differ. He's run a best time of 14.9 (mainly 15.0s - 15.1s) and I think I can top that with a few planned modifications -- the first one being gears, because I know these 2.78s are holding me back a lot. I'd like to have the 2bbl on there when I whoop his ass, just for increased humiliation. What do you guys think?


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: shiftless on 9/7/06 5:31am ]</font>
 

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I don't think that very many people try to trick out the 2100. Holley makes some kick-ass 2bbls and perform nearly par (performance wise) with a 4bbl version. You might want to check out a 500cfm version.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nah, if I wanted to spend any money I'd just install a four barrel. I wanna how much I can wring out of the stock parts first.
 

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I too have never been able to get a lot out of the stock parts. As far as ecomonical power I think gears go a long way - but in order to run below a 15s quarter get at least 4.10's, if not 4.56 or lower. You can never drive your car on the freeway but it will get to 90 mph much more quickly. Fortunately the Ford 8 and 9 inch rears are easy to swap the gears so changes can be done relatively quickly (keep your stock ones handy!).

I think there is a lot to be gained by doing the timing correctly as well. This website has some great tips on how to do that in their articles by changing the springs of the ocunterweights in the distributor. Consider an electronic (pertronix?) ignition module as well - points are tempermental.

Of course there is always nitrous...

Weight too...there's a lot of interior and under-carpet insulation you can get rid of, near empty gas tank, etc.

I have virtually no drag race experience but in reading posts on this site the driver plays a huge role in the end quarter mile time. I imagine if you get good at timing the lights that can go a long way as well.

Stick shifts help but a stock C-4 is OK tooo...I run a stock C-4 iand have gotten pretty good at shifting up through the gears manually. Although my next planned upgrade is to get a T-5. A 289 is a high RPM engine, but I doubt stock valve springs can handle much above 5,500 rpm.

Consider disconnecting the alternator/PS/AC belts as well. No fan? Lots of small things can add up...a little.

I think you have a reasonable goal and respect your desire to keep the car true blue. Have fun and learn along the way. Thats what makes this a great hobby.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the info. I believe I will eventually install a homebrew twin turbo 351, but for right now I'm curious to see what I can get out of the 289. I like to start with a basic combo and get it totally tweaked and tuned to run as best as it possibly can. I know for a fact there is a lot of potential horsepower hidden in places and parts you would normally have never thought twice about. The trick is just finding it. And if you just throw parts at a motor, you tend to miss a lot of this potential.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: shiftless on 9/8/06 1:21pm ]</font>
 

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In 64, I raced a 63 1/2 Sprint with a 2100 carb. I was running J/S. The carb will develop more cfm if you take brake hone to the vensuri (sp) and open the holes up she will run alittle faster. Went from 16.2 to 16.0 with 8:00x14 tires.

 
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