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I just got two, 5 leaf, mid-eye springs for my '67 Cougar. BTW, they are interchangeable with '67 Mustang, right? Anyway, assuming they are, (cause the ad said '67 mustang) how do I change them. More specifically, can I change them in my garage, without screwing up the alignment, or should I fork over the bucks, and take it to a wheel/suspension shop?

One other thing, can I re-use the old shackles and get new bushings, or do I need a whole new setup?

Thanks

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My Baby: '67 Cougar
289 4V, T5, 16x8 AR Rims

Rice is only good for one thing...
...but I can't think of it

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: thecougarguy on 2/20/02 1:45pm ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: thecougarguy on 2/20/02 1:46pm ]</font>
 

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First off, they arent interchangable. If you dont have a compressor, it will be hard to get the bolts off. Soak them with monkey-snot (WD-40) for a few days. An alignment is not nessecarry for rear springs, just make sure they go in the holes on the blocks, and dont tighten the shackles until the car is on the ground.You can re-use the shackles if they arent bent, they arent that expensive anyways if you wreck them.
I work in a spring shop, doing truck and car springs all day, if you dont have a torch and compressor, it going to be hard. The front spring eye bolt is the toughest to get out. It is possible without the compressor and torch, but will take awhile. Just make sure you use GOOD jacks stands, and support the car well. I had a truck fall on me at work awhile ago cuz the jack stand broke, cheap boss.
Take your car to a spring shop if you have any doubts, it's not worth hurting yourself or wrecking the car. And they can do it in no time and the cost isnt much considering all the headaches you'll have if you dont have the right tools.
Just my 2 cents.

Rick
 

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Not sure why you would need a torch unless you round off a nut or something. And you can do it without a compressor as mentioned, but takes longer.

I'd get new bushings for the spring ends and maybe new u-bolts also. I'd consider the polyurethane bushings for the eyes of the springs.

The rear alignment is accomplished by the bolt running thru the center of the leafs. This bolt aligns the springs with the hole in the axle housing spring seat.

Jack the car up and use jack stands under the body. Remove the tires/wheels and then unbolt the u-bolts from one side. You will have to unbolt the shock also. Raise the housing an inch or so and support it with a jack stand. Place you jack under the leaf and support it, so when you remove the rear shackle it won't drop and will make it easier to remove the shackle. Let the jack down so the rear of the leaf is on the floor and then remove the front spring bolt.

Before attempting to install the new springs, lay the old one beside one of the new ones and compare them. Make sure they appear the same and the dimensions are the same. Re-install the new spring in reverse of above. Go to the other side and replace it.
 

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Dude, it's easy, takes all of 3 hours max. I just did it saturday. Just be sure to put jack stands under the frame, then also under the rear end, or put the jack under the rear end, and stands under the rear subframe members.

you want the car jacked up so the rear wheels dont touch the ground, i.e. spring unloaded, fully arched. then jack the rear axle assembly up a little bit.

unbolt the shock, then the four u-bolt nuts. No need to remove the u-bolts off the axle tubes. Pull the shock plate off.

Then undo the rear shackle nut and work the spring off the shackle. This will allow the spring to come all the way down.

Now go to the front spring mount and remove the 3/4" nut, You'll need to put a wrench on the bolt head to keep it from spinning.

Thats it, now the spring comes out, reverse to get the new one in.

Do one side at a time, dont remove both springs at the same time, its just makes it easier as the axle assembly stays stable.

the 67 mustang springs should fit the cougar, the only difference will be that the cougar used rubber pads and a softer spring rate. you can probably transfer the rubber pads, but its not critical./
 

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do the 5 leaf mid eye springs have a different arch then stock springs. when i layed my stock 37 year old springs next to the new 5 leaf mideye ones, the 5 leafs looked slightly longer, but with less arch which i thought accounted for them looking longer. maybe its cause the stock springs were old, but the mid eye springs raised the car about an inch from the stock springs with 1" lowering blocks. theoretically it should have been the same height but maybe they will settle after a while.
 

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Front frozen eye bolts were very easy to remove with a 4.5 in. electric Makita grinder with a cut off wheel. These bolts are usually rusted in place and are very difficult to pound out. Alignment is maintained by the bolt in the center of the spring pack. The top of the bolt is dowel shaped and fits into the hole in the differential housing spring perches.
 

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I had the same problem with rusted spring eye bolts on my 69 Fastback a couple of years ago. I came up with a little tool to get them out. No sawzall, no torch. Costs about $3. You will need a piece of threaded rod the same thread as the spring eye bolt. 1/2"X 20 I think. You will also need two of those really long nuts that you use you use to join sections of threaded rod together, one regular nut and a piece of scrap plate.

You already have the nut off, spray with penetrating oil and let sit overnight.

Assemble as shown:
http://home.earthlink.net/~racrcole/_uimages/pressA.jpg

Turn one long nut until it is also threaded onto the spring eye bolt, joining the spring eye bolt and threaded rod together, lock the long nut into place, using the regular nut as a jam nut. Only thread the long nut onto the eye bolt as little as possible. Make sure to leave a gap between the long nut and the frame rail.
As shown: http://home.earthlink.net/~racrcole/_uimages/pressB.jpg

Hold the first long nut (the one locked into place by the jam nut) with a wrench. Turn the other nut with a wrench to lengthen the whole setup. Place the piece of scrap between the nut and rocker panel for it to press on without tearing up the rocker flange.
As shown: http://home.earthlink.net/~racrcole/_uimages/pressC.jpg

The press will break the bolt loose from the rusty inner sleeve. Tighten until the long nut is flush against the frame. I got one side out very easy then. The other side was still sticking a little, even though it was broken loose so I backed the long nut/jam nut off and kept turning, just used the threaded rod to push the eye bolt out. A little slippery at first when the eyebolt was flush with the frame rail, but got easy once it moved down in the hole and the hole keeps the eye bolt and threaded rod aligned, even though they weren't attached anymore.

Later,

David Cole

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Dave C on 2/21/02 11:55pm ]</font>
 

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I like that tool you made.....Thanks.....

there is nothing like figuring out how to do something with nothing. kinda like the two tools I made to take the clutch packs apart on a C4 out of scrap steel and threaded rod. I have been using them 20 years now.
 

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If you can't get the bolts out, be sure you have a sawz-all with a good metal blade. Put the blade between the bushing and the mount and cut the bolt at both ends. Of course you will need new bolts!!
I have also found that iodine is a fantastic rusty bolt letter goer fluid!!
 
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