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Which oil is better and which brand of the two is the best?
 

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Synthetic is better. I use Mobil 1. There are better synthetics,(Amsoil,Redline,Royal Purple) but I can't afford them.
 

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i use mobil 1 as well, good stuff.
somewhere theres a good dusussion on syntithic oil here, i looked but cant find it. someone knows where it is, or it could be one of the missing posts from the old board.
 

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I run Royal Purple synthetic, and in my opinion, it is the best oil out there. But asking which is better, synthetic or petroluem oil, is like asking a room full of people which type of food is better. Everyone has their own opinions and beliefs, and none of them are wrong for that individual person.
 

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I use Royal Purple. It is awsome it lowered my tempature like a 1/8 - 1/4 on the Temp. gage. Seems more horepower also.
 

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A question was asked “what oil do I use and what is your oil pressure when the car is warmed up” and this was and still is my answer;

The oil pressure in my 63 Falcon is somewhere around 20-25 psi after the motor is warmed a while at an idle. The oil pressure sits around 50 to 55 at 900 to a 1000 rpm in my Falcon. I am using the same Amsoil Synthetic 5W-30 in the 63 Falcon as I do in all my cars and trucks that I owned for the last 25 years. I change the oil and filter every 25,000 miles.

The oil has a little discoloration when I change it but it is never black and the oil never gets so dark that I cannot still see through it as it runs out of the oil pan. Am I trying to get anyone to use Amsoil, No way, a person can use whatever they want all I am doing is just sharing with you what I have used for the last 25 years in everything I drive. A lot of people do not use Synthetic oil for what ever reasons but I can truthfully say all my cars and trucks have gotten over 250,000 miles on them before I traded or sold them.

How I ran across this Synthetic oil was many years ago when my girl bought a 5.0 Mustang that only had 5000 miles on it. One day I was out in the shop and thought I would check her oil while the car was at the house and it was a half a quart low. I put what I used at the time which was Havoline 10W-30 and topped the oil off when she came out the door and saw me.

She freaked totally out and told me the man at the car lot told her not to put any oil in the car for 50,000 miles. Well I lost it right there and we had one heck of an argument about that statement because I have always changed every three thousand miles. After we calmed down a bit I looked at the mileage on the Mustang and she had 115,000 on the car and had never changed the oil. Blew my mind is not the word for it but what blew me away even worst was the oil was clean to the point I could see through it. I went to see the car dealer about this and that’s when I started using Amsoil.

Come to find out my daughter misunderstood the man about when to change the oil and it really blew his mind when he saw the miles on the car and found out she never changed the oil. Needless to say we changed the oil and filter right away but we put back the same oil that was in the motor which was the Amsoil 5W-30. My daughter finally sold the car after putting 283, 000 miles on it.

Most people don't believe this and that’s fine I wouldn't have believed it either if someone told me something like this if it had not happen to me. I am just telling you the oil I use and why but after all that had happened I have used Amsoil like I said for over 25 years now and have never had a problem with any engine.
 

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Whew! This is a can of worms. Well, from all that I have read, both opinion and what is claimed to be scientific fact, there is no comparing the two. I use all brands of FULL synthetic, not blended, as long as they are reputable, and leave the oil in for more than 10K miles. The 3K mile oil change is a scam in my opinion. It wont hurt changing the oil early, it will just cost more money is all. More money paid to the quickee oil change places that put crap in your car anyway, unless you want to pay out the nose. I have recently discovered that auto zone has specials where you can buy 5 qrts of oil and a filter for about $5 or so. I wait till that special includes synthetic oil and buy that. I dont know how often that is, just keep an eye out on auto zones sale papers. Either way, I have heard some crazy stuff about oil changes. I would love to be able to experiment myself with all this "no oil changes for XX,XXX miles" myself, but if I had the money to have an extra car to that with, I wouldnt care much about longevity in the daily driver to begin with right? There are a couple high end vehicles that use mobil 1 as factory first oil fill (hopefully after proper break-in) so they would have to trust it at least enough. Just google "factory mobil 1 oil fill" and see the results as to how many factories use it.
 

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if you intend to keep a new car I'd used AMSoil, Royal Purple, Ect. AMSoil does make an auxiliary fitration system, that from what I'm told extends the lify of thier oil to 50k + al you do is change the factory filter every 10k, top off the oil and at about 100k you change the aux fiter.

The Equipment Shop where I work has been using This system on the fleet vehical and has noticed a sudstantil reduction in engine replacement, heavy internal repairs, Ect.

But if you trade them every 50k, its not worth the money, just use the old school cheap stuff and change it every 7500 mile as typicly recommended by the Manufacture. 3000 mile stuff is bs for most people, unless your driving 1/2 mile each direction and never getting your car hot.
 

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Hey guy's I am Totally in to thinking that the proof I've seen is that Synthetic oil is better...
But I use the cheapest 10/30 I can buy... I change my filter every other oil change (6K) I change my oil every 3 to 4K and keep using the cheap crap. My rig has 115K on it and it's not lost a bit of performance, oil pressure nor mileage since it was new...

It costs me about $12 bucks per quarter, that's roughly $50 bucks a year in oil and filters...

Not bad to me...

But I don't plan on keeping it until it reaches 900,000 miles. I like to trade off my car's every few years...

Like dfree said, if you are swapping out your car every several years you'll never personally have the absolute need for every last scrap of mileage out of that motor, thus regular Dino oils are fine...

But if you don't mind spending an extra $20 bucks every time you change your oil, every 7K miles or do then go for it... In the long run, the costs are likely not that much diffrent...

It's all about personal preference you know...

You can make a car last 500,000 miles on either synthetic or dino oil....

FE
 

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I usually use Mobil since for the price and availability, you just can't beat it. However, I usually change mine around ever 5,000 miles since that amounts to about 3 months and I drive the car hard and leave it alone sometimes for 1-2 weeks. Personally though, I think Amsoil is junk since my experiences w/ their 2-stroke oil kind of turned me off to them. This is a result of using them when I had a moped in which every time I almost hit top speed, the engine would hesitate a bit before it would proceed to continue. Switched to Redline and not only did it make my engine smokeless, but it got rid of that problem and I actually noticed a performance gain. Now, their 2-stroke oils could be different than what's in cars but I'm personally sold on Redline.
 

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Informative Site Juan.. Thanks for posting

Keith/ Bumble
 

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I've been using Amsoil for about 8 years now. I highly recommend Amsoil. My last 5.9 Dakotar R/T truck I put 75K miles on it with 5 oil changes. Had 175psi on all cylinders before I sold it and bought a 06 Hemi Charger R/T to accommodate my 2 rug rats. I changed my oil every year with Amsoil's 0-30W Synthetic oil at roughly 17K-18K miles a year. At the time Amsoil's oil filters were good for 12,500 miles(which I changed every 6 months) but there new patented oil filters are good for 25,000 miles.
Had 2 motorcycles(XR 250, XR600)dirt bikes that I switched over to Amsoil. Both after clutch was released in 1st and at idle lifted the front tire off the ground about 1-1.5 inches and accelerated.......this never happened with conventional oil..only acceleration... I was convinced!!
Had a 92 MX-3 6 cyc that had 140K miles on her. At 300 miles doing 70mph @ 3,000rpms it burned 1 quart of conventional oil. Changed it out with Amsoil's 0-30W and went 300......still on the full line. Drove 600, 900, 1200, and 1500 miles and oil was still on full line. I was amazed!! Found out Amsoil's synthetic oil's have a higher flash point than conventional oil.(roughly 100 degrees higher before it would start to burn off).

These are just a few positive experiences with Amsoil full synthetics I wanted to share. Everyone has their own opinion and I respect that.

As far as cost, I spend maybe $60-70(to include shipping) for Amsoil but I'm good for a year. If one is changing their oil every 3K miles, it cost roughly $30 an oil change times 4,5, or 6 times a year. Each time you change your oil, your new oil every 3K miles is actually washing down the engine. Some have said when the oil gets discolored, it's time to change the oil. Take for example a diesel engine turns the oil black within the 1st 30 minutes of driving. The color has no bearing on the lubrication of the oil. So when your using synthetics, they are proven to last many times over conventional oil. Synthetics, you just can't go wrong. It's superior oil in every way.....to include less friction, better lubrication, extended oil drains...and less money in the long run. There's some engine's out there with Amsoil's patented dual filtration system that is using the same oil for over 300,000-400,000 miles. The filter changes is what is keeping the oil clean. That's my 2 cents that I want to share. There are alot of companies that offer synthetic motor oils, but they can't say they were the very 1st one to develop it. (Amsoil is!!)I'm hooked on Amsoil. I use it on all my vehicles in the last 8 years and never had a problem. In my opinion, it's my favorite synthetic oil.
 

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Synthetics are very good oils, but not all oils that say synthetic on the container are true synthetics. Case in point, in the late nineties Mobil sued Castrol, because Castrol was (and still is) marketing their oil as a synthetic, however it is not a synthetic, it is made from a mineral oil feed stock. Mobil lost the case, the court ruled that the Castrol product had synthetic like properties so it could be marketed as a synthetic (and yes at the same price as a synthetic). Amsoil, royal purple are synthetics. When you pay that 5 bucks a quart be sure you are getting a synthetic, and not paying 5 bucks a quart for 2 dollar quart motor oil.
 

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Here's a post over at the Speedtalk forums dealing with zinc/phosphorus content in Mobil 1.

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9068&sid=18ac7fd3e715c5b386fb51047342570e

For Mobil 1 users, here is a chart you can look at, to see if you've chosen the best particular Mobil 1 product for your hotrod or race car: For flat tappet cam users, the M1 15/50 is recommended, as it has more ZDDP.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

The text below is a Mobil Q and A:

Ask Mobil
Has Zinc Been Removed from Motor Oils?

Question:
Has Zinc Been Removed from Motor Oils?
I am having thrust bearing failure in a 4.6 modified performance engine. This is a street/strip engine. Many of my friends are having the same problem. I think it is the result of the removal of zinc from the oil. I was told by two separate racing engine builders that the EPA ordered the removal of the zinc from over-the-counter motor oil. I use Mobil 1 5W-20. Is this true and do you think a zinc additive might help?
-- Randy Lovejoy, Americas, GA

Answer:
The active ingredient that you are talking about is phosphorus which is added thru a component called ZDDP. For products that meet the new ILSAC GF-4 specification the phosphorus levels for the oil must be less than 800 ppm phosphorus. The ILSAC level for phosphorus has been reduced to protect the catalytic converter and other emission protection equipment. The engine manufacturers are confident that this level of phosphorus will protect both new and older engines. However, there are Mobil 1 products which have a higher level of phosphorus (phos) and can be used in engines in racing or high performance applications; see the attached table.
 

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In the Sean Hyland book, he's says the reason for thrust bearing failure in the mod engines is the fact that only of 1/2 of it is actually a bearing (or something along the lines, don't have the book w/ me though so I'm going by memory). The solution he came up w/ is to drill oil holes where there aren't any. Unfortunately though, thanks to the tree huggers and roller cams, all the nice additives are going to be gone for good, unless you buy racing oil (even in diesel oils they are reducing the amounts).
 

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I have read about every book I could find about oil and every book concerning which oil you should use will say that this oil or that oil is the best oil and that tests show this oil or that oil is the best. I am the type of person who doesn't believe everything I read I go on personal experience not saying there is not truth in some of the things that are written about oil. I have used your standard oil for cars and changed oil religiously as the directions said to but I had to ask myself a question after reading on the oil bottle "change every three months or 3000 miles".

The question that comes to my mind is "why", is the oil going to go bad after three months even though you did not drive the 3000 miles? Maybe its me but its the little crappy things like this that make me not want to use the stuff in the first place because anyone with any since can see this is nothing but a sales tactic to get you to buy more oil. Why would you want to keep lining the oil companies pockets every 3000 miles when there is no need too?

If I believed everything I have read in books I am about 150,000 mile over my brake fluid change. I replaced the rear end dope with synthetic when I bough my truck. Now ask yourself how can the rear end dope which does not have a filter last longer that the oil in your motor which does? I understand the rear end dope is thicker but the heat and wear in the rear end is just as damaging as it is in the motor yet you do not change it every three thousand miles, not even close to it. I have bought cars and trucks new and put over 200,000 miles on them and never changed the read end dope and I have never lost a rear end yet.

Case and point is go by your personal experience with motor oils. If you like changing oil every 3000 mile and you have never had a problem then why change anything you are doing? I just happen to have an experience with synthetic oil and seen first hand how it worked in another car so I tried it and I will never and I mean never go back to your standard motor oil. When I first used synthetic I never even did any research on it because I saw with my own eyes a motor go over a 100,000 miles without an oil or filter change using synthetic. I didn't have to read anything I just started running the same oil.

I have built drag racers and run synthetic and not change the oil for two seasons and never had a motor problem yet so if reading this helps fine but if not you have lost nothing nor have you gained anything because like I said you have to experience something to see for yourself. Will I ever go back to the standard oil on the market? No, nor will I stop using synthetic because of what some chart or test say. Go with what you know for fact works and be happy because in the long run of all this its your motor and you can do with it what ever you choose.
 

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My engine has 600 miles on her. I broke the cam in when I first fired her up at 2200rpm for 30 minutes. After that I changed the oil...

Am I done breaking her in?

Can I switch to a synthetic oil yet or wait for a couple thousands miles first.

thanks
g
 
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