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A good story about the purchase of this car and what will end up being a good conversation piece after its completion will be the decklid spear emblem inlay I'm having made for the car.
After driving over the second time to meet with the 2nd owner to finally pick up this car, the gentleman was standing close to me as the car was being driven onto the hauler. I had glanced at him and noticed he was getting a little emotional. He wasn't crying or nothing like that but I could tell he was upset. I simply walked up beside him and told him I could just as easily remove it from the hauler if he wanted me too. He nodded no and mentioned he simply had a lot of good memories of the car and that he used to take it to the track and race sometimes on the weekends. Said his friends used to call the car "white lighting". That moment has always stuck with me and I wanted to do something special so when it was done, I intended to drive it back over so he could see it finished and see if he will catch the addition inlay I'm putting on the car.
It's nothing elaborate per say but the inlay will fit inside this 1965 Galaxie trunk spear and simply read "lightning". I have a friend in the sign business that is going to cut it out 3D style in the shape of the emblem. I attached one of the first CAD drawing ideas of this inlay to give you an idea of what I had in mind. Its changed quite a bit since this drawing looks, font and size wise but at least gives you an idea.
Looking forward to that ride back to Fredricksburg.
very cool- seeing that car redone will make his day for sure, and the custom emblem paying homage to it will be a nice touch.
excellent work so far, gonna be a beauty. like your airhose setups along the wall behind the car too. I still havent finished inside our 'new' garage thats going on 10 yrs old now, always looking for ideas :)
tim
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Could use some help with this question.......

I am converting my 1966 Galaxie from manual to power steering and already have found a power steering gearbox and pump.
My question is, is there a difference between the pitman arm used by a power steering gearbox versus a manual gearbox? Anyone have the part number(s) for it if so?
Do I have to change out any other steering components if there is a power steering pitman arm?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
 

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Great job on the resto so far!!
Yes, there are different part numbers for the manual vs power steering pitman arm. I had a tough time finding a reasonably priced arm for mines. I can get you part #s later when I get to my computer.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Since I removed the column shifter and bought the floor shifting column, I decided to install a B&M Z gate shifter that will work with my C6 trans. I wasn't impressed with the ratcheting shifters they offered even though they are very popular. Simply felt it wasn't needed for my application. I liked the way the Z gate operated and the look. I wont be using any of the surrounding bases due to this being enclosed in a custom center console but will be using the backup light and neutral safety switches that come with this shifter. Simply installed a matching chrome T-handle to finish the look off.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
The handles and locks have been shaved from the doors and trunk. They'll all open via wireless keypad from now on. Bought this shave kit about 4 years ago after doing some research. Seems to be a pretty good kit with heavy duty (35 pound) solenoids.
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
Have seen many cars with shaved handles using the same type of solenoids I'm using but I didn't like how the bolts holding the mount plates could be seen inside their door jams/etc. I didn't want to see any of that on my ride. I had a mount plate made and welded in on both the jam side and the window rail for added support. Then the solenoid mount plate was adapted on one side as a tongue (per say) to side into the mount plate we made closest to the door jam once installed. This way there is only two mounting bolts needing to secure and not have to fight trying to get to the other two bolts in that tight space. I didn't really want to use cables to attach the solenoids to the latches and the original linkage that attached from the latch to the door handle was too long to use so we made our own similar to fit. I really like the outcome.
 

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when i use to do them on mini's I would attach them to the dore panel side. or if you have that option put it in a lower part of the door that will clear the glass and just run a new line or cable to get your pull? Did you get any poppers for it. i know with 35lbs on a s10 will kick the door out about 4 inches.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
when i use to do them on mini's I would attach them to the dore panel side. or if you have that option put it in a lower part of the door that will clear the glass and just run a new line or cable to get your pull? Did you get any poppers for it. i know with 35lbs on a s10 will kick the door out about 4 inches.
They fit nicely and clear the glass where shown. I wanted to use the door handle mechanism to open and tested the range and clearance before fabricating the mounting plates. I did buy poppers for this install but am concerned about the doors opening too far. Will have to test that at a later date.

When you used the poppers, how far where you able to get the doors to open? Far enough to make them stay open?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
yes you can set the amount of force about a foot.. also depends on the weight of door..


Seen adjustments can be made to adjust tension. Unsure I want to drill holes to simply test whether or not to use them. Cross that later down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
If you remember, I had someone ([email protected]#$%^&) hit and run Ethel just before I could get her over to the restorers.
Rear quarter and decklid repairs are going well.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Another modification I wanted to do was to get rid of the square gas cap lid. I felt it just doesn't fit the car. Every picture I've ever seen of my car or other Galaxie's online, the gas cap lid stood out like a sore thumb. I bought a round weld-in style hidden gas cap to install where the square gas lid was originally. Here are some initial pics of it tacked in place.
 

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When I have done the shaved door handles in the past I have never had to use poppers. The pressure of the door seals always kicked them out enough. You only really need enough to get your hand in there to open the door, and in my experience it always did.

I use those gas caps to do flush mount caps when I do motorcycles. While I like your idea that cap has a crown to it, IMO you would need to flatten that cap out, preferably by machine, or it will stand out worse than the gas door. The cap itself is aluminum so it is soft and could be sanded. Just my opinion. Here is a pic of that cap that I used.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
When I have done the shaved door handles in the past I have never had to use poppers. The pressure of the door seals always kicked them out enough. You only really need enough to get your hand in there to open the door, and in my experience it always did.

I use those gas caps to do flush mount caps when I do motorcycles. While I like your idea that cap has a crown to it, IMO you would need to flatten that cap out, preferably by machine, or it will stand out worse than the gas door. The cap itself is aluminum so it is soft and could be sanded. Just my opinion. Here is a pic of that cap that I used.
Yeah, I think I'm scratching the poppers. Your the third person that has the same thing now and I really don't want the doors opening up all the way. Glad for all the opinions from others before drilling/cutting on a car.

We stood by the car once it was tacked in and looked at that cap. We both just looked at each other and said, "the top". It was that easy. Now it's been filled, moved and installed. Like it much better. Keeps the side of the car even cleaner now that the handles and locks have a ready been shaved
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
thats a neat cap, looks great up top too. is there a drain around the recess for spillage/water drainage, and does it include a section of filler neck pipe, or is it hose connected? very nice work!
Thanks ford4v429,

That was one thing we did talk about when we decided to move it on top. There will be a small drain tube added later at the neck that will have a small hose attached and run out of the bottom for the water that could collect at the top.

I wanted to use pipe instead of hose due to it running inside the trunk area. Wanted no issues at all when it comes to fuel and/or fumes. The pipe added was not bent in any machine, It was cut in several places to mold the shape needed and then refilled (welded) to fill the cuts once the correct shape was formed. I've added a few initial pics I took shortly after the install.

The new filler tube meets the tank filler tube inside the wheel well, where it is then joined by a small section of hose. This way any future tank repairs can still be done if needed.
 

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Really like the work you are doing. The cap up top looks good. The whole direction is....... I don't know what to say, I just like it!
 
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