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Discussion Starter #41
Really like the work you are doing. The cap up top looks good. The whole direction is....... I don't know what to say, I just like it!
Thanks nytling92

Direction? Not sure of that myself. Was all about original when I first bought this car but over the years decided to do some changes. Obviously.

The guys at the shop are the ones with all the skills making this happen for me for the most part.

This car will end up having "custom 500" badges on the front fenders and on the passenger side dash location (painted red background behind the 500 fonts) once it's finished since it will definitely be custom.

I laid out what my dash will look like on my original wooden template used for fabricating my dashpad. Not set in stone quite yet but close.
 

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I like the pop up gas cap...:tup:
are you adding some type of drainage to it as well..
looks like it will collect water around cap every time you wash car or rain..
some ends up in tank each time when removing cap....
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I like the pop up gas cap.
are you adding some type of drainage to it as well..
looks like it will collect water around cap every time you wash car or rain..
some ends up in tank each time when removing cap....

Quote:
Originally Posted by ford4v429 View Post
thats a neat cap, looks great up top too. is there a drain around the recess for spillage/water drainage, and does it include a section of filler neck pipe, or is it hose connected? very nice work!


Thanks ford4v429,

That was one thing we did talk about when we decided to move it on top. There will be a small drain tube added later at the neck that will have a small hose attached and run out of the bottom for the water that could collect at the top.

I wanted to use pipe instead of hose due to it running inside the trunk area. Wanted no issues at all when it comes to fuel and/or fumes. The pipe added was not bent in any machine, It was cut in several places to mold the shape needed and then refilled (welded) to fill the cuts once the correct shape was formed. I've added a few initial pics I took shortly after the install.

The new filler tube meets the tank filler tube inside the wheel well, where it is then joined by a small section of hose. This way any future tank repairs can still be done if needed
 

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yeah I missed that...
too busy looking at the pictures...lol
 

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Discussion Starter #45
yeah I missed that...
too busy looking at the pictures...lol
It's all good.

I like the new location myself. The drainage tube we'll add later should work fine.

We also added a small section of straight pipe just below the new weld-in cap so the gas nozzle would easily rest inside the filler tube while filling it up with gas. If not added, I would of had to hold the gas handle/nozzle the entire time while fueling.

Prime example of the small (but big) things the experienced shop guys bring to the table.
 

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very nice.

eventually if I get off my butt, the old mustang thats been apart hogging my garage for 31 years will need something for its dangerous fuel tank- a top mount filler might now be added to my wishlist- the pop open cap above the bumper looked cool, but was far worse than any pinto ever built...a cell with a top mount fill like this sure sounds like a good option to pursue someday- so thanks for sharing the idea :)
tim
 

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Discussion Starter #48
So, I understand there will be readers out there that will argue the next comments I'm about to make but going through this process is already costly enough when done right and/or the current process this car is in. There will always be time after this car hits the road to do more improvements/modifications once my pocketbook starts to fill up again. (Engine, Brakes, Etc)

This car will not be used for racing. I wont need 450 HP under the hood for the driving I plan to do with this car. Although I want the car to run well and look good, I don't intend to change the engine till much farther down the road. Then I may think about upgrading but the original engine in this car has 70,000 original miles and ran great. The 352/C6 combo was quiet and smooth running. Although the car originally came with a cruise-o-matic transmission, the addition of the C6 was a no brainer. I intend to clean this motor up and reinstall back into the car once the time comes to do so. I will be doing some small improvements by adding a Edelbrock 2105 intake manifold to work with my Holley 600 CFM 4 barrel Carb and a Edelbrock 8805 water pump along with the addition of the Vintage Air compressor and accessories and some nice aluminum valve covers I found that I think will look great on that engine.

Later, I intend to put some Ford FE shorty's manifolds or a good set of aftermarket headers/manifolds on this engine but for now, I have already blasted and recoated the original manifolds with a product called POR15. I researched this quite extensively before purchasing. A lot of good reviews and history with this product so I'm trying it. The best way for this product to work is by blasting the manifolds clean and then applying the product (make sure your wearing gloves). It applies easily with any brush and is self leveling. You simply bake the product in once its dry and your done. I happened to choose the aluminum look but there are three different colors to choose from. I don't have anything to do with this product and don't sell it. Just a good product I'm hoping lasts like the reviews says it does.

By the way, anyone with a set of FE shorty's and willing to get rid of them, PM me. I like the fact that the exhaust doesn't have to be changed with either manifolds since I like the original "H" style exhaust. I'll just be sizing the pipe bigger is all. If I happen to find some shorty's for this motor, I'll be selling these manifolds.
 

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Are you talking about the FE cast iron headers? Those are rare and usually very pricey, although I seem to recall there being one aftermarket manufacturer of them. There are a number of threads on shorty and full length tubular headers.
 

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Are you talking about the FE cast iron headers? Those are rare and usually very pricey, although I seem to recall there being one aftermarket manufacturer of them. There are a number of threads on shorty and full length tubular headers.
pop's performance was making the cast iron shorty headers .. but they went out of business a few years back...
so I don't think anyone is re popping them at the moment....but not sure...
 

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Discussion Starter #51
pop's performance was making the cast iron shorty headers .. but they went out of business a few years back...
so I don't think anyone is re popping them at the moment....but not sure...
A quick search is limited. What's out there is too pricey.

I've also seen some stainless shorty's online that look nice as well. Would cut down on the weight if they would mount to my original exhaust.

If anyone has bought the stainless shorty's for their 352/390, could you detail the brand/model you purchased and how you liked them after install? THANKS!
 

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A quick search is limited. What's out there is too pricey.

I've also seen some stainless shorty's online that look nice as well. Would cut down on the weight if they would mount to my original exhaust.

If anyone has bought the stainless shorty's for their 352/390, could you detail the brand/model you purchased and how you liked them after install? THANKS!
Do a search for posts by Minngal, or something like that. He documented his recent experience with stainless shorty headers.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Do a search for posts by Minngal, or something like that. He documented his recent experience with stainless shorty headers.

Thanks. His were installed on a later model Galaxie ('64) though. There will be some obvious differences with my application. BUT, I have the same concerns when it comes to the gearbox and starter. I have plenty of time to research and find a solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Some repair pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
More repair pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
beautiful job!
im curious what this all metal skim is.
could you let me know?
Explained better from their website but It's an aluminum filled automotive compound used to repair metal with metal.
Still has the workability of premium body fillers.
Ideal for restoration work and classic car repairs.
Excellent adhesion.
Can be drilled or tapped.
Rustproof and waterproof.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Well, since all the metal work has been completed, it was time to expose this frame.
The frame is in excellent condition. Other than having to fine tune the drivers rear corner after straightening the frame and needing to repair the core support mounting areas, this will get torn down and head to media blast/powder coat soon.
 

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Well, since all the metal work has been completed, it was time to expose this frame.
The frame is in excellent condition. Other than having to fine tune the drivers rear corner after straightening the frame and needing to repair the core support mounting areas, this will get torn down and head to media blast/powder coat soon.
nice, you guys in Texas/Arizona got it made :)

funny, I also had to replace the core support mounts on our 65 and on the sons 97 ranger, rotted thru under the rubber mounts...guess thats a common thing even on desert frames, rubber must rub enough to abrade the surface- I always thought it was just a salt thing, guess not...

if I ever had to do one again(no way) I'd holesaw some holes(3/4" or bigger, could weld a 'washer' around if worried about weakening) to flush inside the frame siderails/torqueboxes out- both during resto and occasionally down the road...having access for a borescope would be nice too, I saw a wrecked - but - mint one in Colorado junkyard that I poked a screwdriver thru, outside looked great, but it musta made a salt trip at one time or another... ones around here that ever saw salt were rotted at ten yrs old, Ford didnt use the greatest steel, left it uncoated, AND theres basically no drains large enough to not clog with road dust/grime...
heres my favorite 'ugly' pic of ours, the way it was in 2003-7-15-2003 127 by ford4v429, on Flickr
 
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