I wanted to upgrade to an electric fan for my 1970 mustang project I am working on so off to the junkyard, a local Pick-n-Pull, I went.
I had researched and decided I would go with the Taurus fan since everything I had found said it would be a good swap. What I discovered upon trying to install the Taurus fan was that since mine was a equipped with factory air conditioning there was no way I was going to get the fan installed because of the idler brackets. So with some disappointment I went back to find a different fan that would work. I proceeded to search and eventually settled on a dual fan setup from a 1998 Mercury Mystique, I believe the fans are found on 1995-1999 range on V6 Ford Contours and Mercury Mystique, for the price of $25.00.
TIP:
Make sure that when you pull your electric fan(s) you get all the correlating wiring and plugs that go with it.
For those that are wondering...
Based on my research it puts out around 3400 cfm and the way I have it wired up both fans come on at the same time when the radiator temperature hits right around 182 degrees. The fans run very quite and cool the engine down very quickly. When I was testing my electric hookups to the fans it was more the air flow past my arm then the noise that alerted me that the fans were running.
To make the fit I needed to do a couple of things.
1) I used a dremel tool with a cut off wheel and a file to trim the shroud to remove the original connection points since I was not using them.
2) I then took the fans out of the shroud and cleaned everything up and gave the shroud a coat of paint (Krylon Semi-Gloss Black).
3) I then had to create my mounting points and attach the fan to the radiator. I drilled two holes per side through the trimmed attaching points and the radiator "rail" and used some 2" bolts with nuts to secure everything.
Note:
I did not have a fan installed from when I put my engine in since I knew I wanted to go with an electrical one. If you do have yours in you will need to remove your original fan and spacer.
4) I then verified that the fit was still good and nothing was in the way of anything else.
5) To hook up all the electrical I purchased an adjustable dual fan controller (TorqFlo - PN 733647) from AutoZone, a local auto store, for $35.00. This controller would run both fans and had a built in relay, fuse, AC clutch hookup lead and temperature probe.
6) Following the supplied directions, I proceeded to mount the controller to the car where the passenger side meets the radiator support by the battery tray.
7) I chose to run the wiring down the side and along the bottom of the fans so that it was a cleaner install and followed the directions to make all of my electrical connections.
8) I then used a step drill and utility knife to make the temperature probe mounting hole and installed the probe into the radiator fins.
TIP:
Create the temperature probe mounting hole prior to mounting to the radiator, if possible, otherwise be careful when creating the hole so as not to damage your radiator.
8) Everything was hooked up so now it was time to verify it worked and dial in the controllers temperature turn on since it comes preset for 165 degrees and I wanted everything running in the 180 - 200 degree range. Why that range? Based on everything I have read about my engine that is the prime temperature range and I wanted the fans to work with the water pump to achieve the proper range and not run when they were not needed.
9) To set the range I used an old calibrated meat thermometer inserted into the radiator fins right below the water inlet on the radiator from the front of the vehicle. I proceeded to warm up the car and waited for the fans to turn on so I could adjust the controller as needed and as luck would have it based on where I mounted the temperature probe the fans turn on right around 182 degrees so no adjustment was needed.
TIP:
To calibrate the thermometer you bring some water to a boil and insert the thermometer into the water. It should read 212 degrees, if not adjust the thermometer as needed. Now you fill a glass full of ice and some water and insert the thermometer into it. It should read 32 degrees, if not adjust the thermometer as needed.
10) Enjoy the "new" electric fan.
Tools I Used:
* Wrench/Socket Set
* Screwdrivers
* File
* Dremmel with cut off wheel
* Utility Knife
* Wiring Stripper/Crimper
* Drill with drill bits
Estimated Cost (no discounts applied)
* Dual Electric Fans With Integrated Shroud: 25.00
* Torqflo Fan Controller: 35.00
* Electrical Connectors: 3.00
* Krylon Spray Paint: 6.00
Total Cost: $69.00
Disclaimer:
I do not claim that this is the best way to do this, or even if you should do this, but rather that this is what I have done. Your cost, results and satisfaction may vary.
This is a good one, you should get points for sharing as well as for a pretty good presentation.
Many guys have opted for electric fans, especially those doing engine swaps. Bringing our old iron into the new millenium (often kicking and screaming is required ), but this one can actually free up a little extra horsepower. And to beat down these up start new retro style pony cars ... Thats just what we need - More Power!
I picked up one of these new with a two year warranty for $95. The used ones (w/o damage) around here were 60-75, so I figured new was a good deal. It is amazing how well it fits the large mustang rads .
Also, they pull great - but, they also pull 38 amps when running - 3G alt, here I come.
They may possibly pull the 38 amps at start but I don't think it does after it has started, otherwise the 25 amp fuse would blow and haven't had that happen to me...yet.
I am not an electrical guy either but my understanding is that some fuses can handle a larger surge for a short time and not blow, but it is the sustained amperage that causes the fuse to blow.
Also I just checked and the relay that came with the fan controller is a 30 amp so I'm guessing no matter what I can not be pulling more then the 30 amps, even at startup.
Somebody who is more knowledgeable will hopefully let us know for sure.
This looks like the dual fan Ford put on the Contours. If so, DCC (Delta Current Control) has some specs on their site as well as controller packaging, etc. Look for integral fan #33212.
This looks like the dual fan Ford put on the Contours. If so, DCC (Delta Current Control) has some specs on their site as well as controller packaging, etc. Look for integral fan #33212.
Did you ever get the dimensions of the fan set up?
I;d like to use on my F;lane but i;m not sure how close the Mustang/F;lane's are in rad size.
Very nice job & great write up by the way.
thanks
They look pretty much exactly the same except in the fan image on the schematic page they have some additional holes on the bottom of the shroud, where they are hooking the wiring together, that don't exists on mine.
Based on the schematic and what I have measured and verified against other peoples measurements you should be pretty good to use those specs, at least for the height width and depth of the fans and shroud.
Somebody else had measured and they got
"...24" wide, 16" tall, and about 3.4" deep at the deepest point"
I picked up the fan at a local Pick-N-Pull (Pick-n-Pull » Home), junkyard where you pull your own parts, for around 25.00 and it comes with a 30 day exchange/return for credit policy.
Looking for advice on radiator cooling system upgrade after an engine swap. 1967 mustang convertable I6 to 302 v8 fuel injection c4 Aod. Not sure what I have to do to accommodate my swap.
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), but this one can actually free up a little extra horsepower. And to beat down these up start new retro style pony cars ... Thats just what we need - 
