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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I worked most of the day putting my 66 jigsaw puzzle back together. I had all the front clip parts off and bead blasted them before painting them satin black, two months ago. My disassembly pics weren't as detailed as I remember and it was a pain. But here is what I have so far:



All I got from the wife was "that's nice dear"?


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It's all awesome except for that K&N topless filter.

Toss it out for a standard Top to the air cleaner and you'll be happier in the long run.

The velocity of the air entering straight down the carb throat is diminished somewhat according to Joe Sherman the racing engine builder and Guru...

I think they look awesome though! :)
 

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That vacuum valve in line with the heater hose, looks like the one I bought as a replacement for the missing valve on my '67. Only thing is the original valve was normally closed and that new one is normally open.

You may already know this and have accounted for it, or it may be a different valve altogether. If not just figured I would give you a heads up.

Looks great for sure!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Fordman, I'll double check the specs on both the original and the new one, it never hurts to double check. I'm pretty sure it's correct, but while that fender is still off it's way easier to get to with out removing all the clamps ive got holding them in place.
FE,
I didn't think about that, but I think I've got a solution. I'll make an aluminum plate to go just under it, secured on the carb stud inside the filter that way it looks cool but doesn't interfere with the air velocity. I'm changing the base out to sit flush with the carb instead of the low profile set up anyways. Even low profile it won't clear the hood, so I figured I could space the carb one more inch and let the whole damn filter stick up into the Boss scoop I'm putting on it.
Thanks for all the input and kudos! If y'all see anything else I can improve while it's in this stage let me know, you won't hurt my feelings.


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Here's the Lokar setup on my Holley:

This is about as clean as I could get the wires and hoses on the drivers side:

I love the look of these wire looms when the plug wires are cut to fit:

Here's my next project, an inline canister style fuel filter:



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Fordman, I'll double check the specs on both the original and the new one, it never hurts to double check. I'm pretty sure it's correct, but while that fender is still off it's way easier to get to with out removing all the clamps ive got holding them in place.


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Much easier for sure with the fender off. I know from reading the shop manual that the valve opens depending on how hot you set the control switch that moves the cable that runs to the firewall. When its set on cold there is no vacuum and the water valve is closed, when it's all the way on hot it has full vacuum and should be fully open. I picked one up from a junked '67 and I could tell it was normally closed, unfortunately it leaks when vacuum is applied so I am back to looking for a replacement. I had picked one up from RockAuto (can't remember the application) and it was open and closed with vacuum. If the one you have is the right one, let me know the details so I can pick one up too.

Thanks!
 
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