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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
For a couple hundred bucks on EBay you can pickup some late model Mustang seats and bolt them into your classic stang. Fed-Ex dropped them off today at 4pm by 7pm they were in the car ready to use.

Seats fresh off the Fed-Ex truck from a 2001 Mustang convertible. They are black but the flash makes them look brighter.





Old seats next to new seats. Note: The camera flash makes the new seats look lighter than they really are.


Remove seat tracks from new seats as well as old seats. You will use your tracks on the new seats.




I used the mounting hole on the top for both seats. The bottom hole will need to be drilled in a new location and use a nut & bolt to secure. Make sure to keep the tracks level when drilling the new mounting hole. The track stud center to center is 14 1/8"





The driver seat is a little more difficult because the track is recessed to fit the power seat track. You need to use a 1" spacer on the top & a 3/4" spacer on the bottom. You still use the original mounting hole on top with a 2" M8 bolt. Like the passenger seat, you will need to drill a new mounting hole on the bottom.








Once the tracks are bolted in you can hook up your spring for moving the seat forward and back. Note, you need to bend the track adjusting handle a little until it clears the front of the seat.


Here are a couple pictures of the finished product. These seats are so much more comfortable than the orginal low back seats. Overall I'm very happy with how easy and good looking this swap was.
Enjoy




.
 

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I dont think that will happen unless your seat platforms are rotted out. They are reinforced with a thick piece of steel under the sheet metal you see and go from the front to the back.

I just realized you used metric hardware for the newer style seats. Did you use 8.8 class bolts? the picture shows them but is hard to see.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did you use 8.8 class bolts? the picture shows them but is hard to see.
Yes, since I used the front mounting holes in the seat they have a nut welded to the other side, so I stuck with metric. Im so ignorant when it comes to metric bolts, are 8.8 as strong as grade 8?
 

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I put some '96 Cougar seats in my Montego...it was a little trickier than yours...I think...:D A lot better than the old bench seat!!
 

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JEGS has some really nice aftermarket seats that I wanna try putting in my Torino. I think they'll look perfect because the finish in the stitching isn't too different from the stock vinyl on the back seat. I wouldn't want the new seats to acutally look like "new" "aftermarket" seats and to keep the look as restomod as I could without making it obvious I upgraded them.
 

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I want the new Mach 1 seats in my old mach 1. They look fairly close to original. Nice swap for your coupe too. My seats are old and broken down so this would be a neat swap for me.
 

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Do you sacrifice any height with the late model seats?
As it is with the original seats, I barely fit under the roof/headliner of my 68 Mustang. In other words, did the distance from where you plant your behind and up to the headliner decrease or indrease? and how much?
Thanks much! Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Do you sacrifice any height with the late model seats?
As it is with the original seats, I barely fit under the roof/headliner of my 68 Mustang. In other words, did the distance from where you plant your behind and up to the headliner decrease or indrease? and how much?
Thanks much! Ken
Hi Ken. I acutally made sure that I sat down in the car just before I did the swap to see if it increased. I can say yes it's a little higher but maybe 1/2" . On the driver side I didn't really notice a difference between my legs and steering wheel (non-tilt column). So I'd say its really not noticiable.
Plus, you can recline the late model seats more than earlier models, so you can gain some headroom that way.

Thanks,
Rich
 

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Hi,
First post here, but long time lurker.
Wondering if strtcar is still around and can give an update on this seat mod, still happy with it? Anyone else done this mod? How about to a '66 mustang coupe? Thanks in advance for any info you can offer.

PS I didn't come accross this thread till after much searching...seems the '98 and earlier seat swap is popular, but it's getting hard to find those seats in good condition. Also, I think the recessed area on the driver's seat may discourage some, but the sleeves/spacer used above seem like a great idea...thoughts?
 

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I used Mazda Miata seats, more readily avail, a little more work making em work though. See Tech Exchange, "New Twist on an old Project. Also go to makeing Progress, 67 Mustang Coupe to see what they look like covered as close to OEM colors and vinyle as I could get.
Hi,
First post here, but long time lurker.
Wondering if strtcar is still around and can give an update on this seat mod, still happy with it? Anyone else done this mod? How about to a '66 mustang coupe? Thanks in advance for any info you can offer.

PS I didn't come accross this thread till after much searching...seems the '98 and earlier seat swap is popular, but it's getting hard to find those seats in good condition. Also, I think the recessed area on the driver's seat may discourage some, but the sleeves/spacer used above seem like a great idea...thoughts?
 

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Long time to get back to this, but finally done with some floor pan repair, painting, wiring...etc, etc, etc....and ready to install these seats.

Thanks for the tip on the Mazda seats Gydyup. I had already leaped before I looked and acquired some white leather seats from an '01 convertible.

Just wanted to update my findings on installing these seats in a '66. I'm guessing the OEM tracks on a '66 vs a '67 must be slightly different because I had to use a little different spacers between the tracks and the seat frames.

This mainly had to do with the secondary track or the track that is not controlled by the release lever (this is the RH track if you were sitting in the seat on both seats in a '66...it's activated by a turnbuckle type link connected to the primary track which is activated by the release lever).

On this secondary track the release mechanism needs some additional clearance between it and the seat frame or upholstery on these 99-04 seats. Long story shorter, I had to add a 1/4 inch spacer between the seat frame and the secondary track on the passenger side seat, and use full 1" spacers all the way around on the driver's seat to allow clearance for full actuation of the release mechanisms on the secondary tracks. I used the 1" spacers all the way around on the driver's seat to keep it uniform. I only used two 1/4" spacers on the passenger side seat secondary track, because I only had two on hand and was pressed for time. Looking forward to bolting them in this afternoon.:cool:
 

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Thanks, it may be the seat itself vice the tracks or bases. I replaced my bases. But the seats I had in it were our of an 80's or early 90's 5.0. The tracks were very flush on those, and had no clearance, but would work. Just drug the seat frame a bit. Still, the early Mustang seats are thicker and bigger, thus sit higher than the stock seats. Mock em up with your spacers (duck tape will hold it all i place) and set them in the car, try them. I found the seat height with the old seats too high, couldnt squeeze between the roll bar and steering wheel, and once in the car, my head hit the headliner, I am only 5-91/2.

Good luck.
Long time to get back to this, but finally done with some floor pan repair, painting, wiring...etc, etc, etc....and ready to install these seats.

Thanks for the tip on the Mazda seats Gydyup. I had already leaped before I looked and acquired some white leather seats from an '01 convertible.

Just wanted to update my findings on installing these seats in a '66. I'm guessing the OEM tracks on a '66 vs a '67 must be slightly different because I had to use a little different spacers between the tracks and the seat frames.

This mainly had to do with the secondary track or the track that is not controlled by the release lever (this is the RH track if you were sitting in the seat on both seats in a '66...it's activated by a turnbuckle type link connected to the primary track which is activated by the release lever).

On this secondary track the release mechanism needs some additional clearance between it and the seat frame or upholstery on these 99-04 seats. Long story shorter, I had to add a 1/4 inch spacer between the seat frame and the secondary track on the passenger side seat, and use full 1" spacers all the way around on the driver's seat to allow clearance for full actuation of the release mechanisms on the secondary tracks. I used the 1" spacers all the way around on the driver's seat to keep it uniform. I only used two 1/4" spacers on the passenger side seat secondary track, because I only had two on hand and was pressed for time. Looking forward to bolting them in this afternoon.:cool:
 

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Just picked up a pair for $225 Cadillac 10-way leather power & heated seats for both the Driver & Passenger including lumbar support. The nice thing about it is that the latch for the shoulder belt is part of the seat too. They are 22" wide and just the right size for my 64 Falcon.

These are much much better than the Chrysler seabring which seems to be wider and feels flat.

I have figure out how to remove the indentations. The salvage yard had parts sitting on them and which caused indentations. There are no holes in them.

Waid
 

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