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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,

just wondering what the most cost effective way to deal with this is.. fitting a T5 into an auto (c4) equipped `68, is it easiest/cheapest to get hold of an original 4 speed style pedal box and z bar setup and use that?

i think i heard somewhere that the actual pedal hanger is the same between auto and manual 68`s and all you need is the clutch pedal itself, is this the case?

also, would i be able to use the pedal box and clutch linkage from a 65-66?

or can i even use the cable setup from a fox?

cheers,

Mark
 

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Are you using the T5 bellhousing, and is it a cable or hydraulic type? The pedal can be added to your hangar, replaced with another original, or modified from another model. Do a search on clutch pedals here for more info. Also, MustangSteve.com does pedal work and may have a good solution.

Cost-effective clutch linkage? That depends on which bellhousing you have and what you can source for your pedals. Cable is cheap, but requires pedal mods, and hydraulic is easy, and needs no mods, but is a bit more expensive. Of course, if your bellhousing is from a hydraulic-clutch car, you effectively have little choice. I.D. your bellhousing first, then figure that with your pedal issue and go from there.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I`m dropping in a complete late model 5.0ho and T5 as one so will be using the late model bellhousing as is, presently with cable clutch.

I have a complete fox donor car.

cheers,

Mark
 

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Yep MustangSteve.com has the kit you need....
 

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I have pedal and cable conversions - have not messed with Hyd yet.
Its all relatively simple. The pedal conversion, you need a full donor, piecing together the springs, rods etc could get pricey.
You can take an two auto pedal assemblys and cut down to make a manual. Lots of work.

For a quickie fix, just to drive my small block motor around a bit before I took it off the road for its current gutting and cleaning, I got a Modern Driveline. I had actually bought a different system and it was a PITA for pedal mods. The modern drive line is so simple to install. I did look at Mustang Steve's didnt like the tight bends he showed on his add, turns down from the firewall behind the shock tower into the header/bell. There are some header limitations with a cable, but Modern Driveline set up is the longer version that gives you more to work with for routing.
I ran mine on Heddman full lenghts and it never had a problem.

I got it for a cheap quickie, to get it rolling to test out the driveline and rear etc, but I like it so much, I may use it on the Big Block.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Gydyup, do you knwo what cable modern driveline use? i liked the sound of mustang steves because it uses a standard 96 (i think) cable, you know if the driveline one can use stock cheap cables too?

cheers,

Mark



I have pedal and cable conversions - have not messed with Hyd yet.
Its all relatively simple. The pedal conversion, you need a full donor, piecing together the springs, rods etc could get pricey.
You can take an two auto pedal assemblys and cut down to make a manual. Lots of work.

For a quickie fix, just to drive my small block motor around a bit before I took it off the road for its current gutting and cleaning, I got a Modern Driveline. I had actually bought a different system and it was a PITA for pedal mods. The modern drive line is so simple to install. I did look at Mustang Steve's didnt like the tight bends he showed on his add, turns down from the firewall behind the shock tower into the header/bell. There are some header limitations with a cable, but Modern Driveline set up is the longer version that gives you more to work with for routing.
I ran mine on Heddman full lenghts and it never had a problem.

I got it for a cheap quickie, to get it rolling to test out the driveline and rear etc, but I like it so much, I may use it on the Big Block.
 

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Not sure, but up under the firewall/cowl is different on those. Cross check NPD or Mustangs Unlmtd on the part numbers, pretty sure they are different.

On the Modern Driveline, the cable is his own, but it does have firewall adjustment, and easily replaced. Best part, the clutch pedal bracket can be bolted on taken off without removing the pedal assembly or modifying the top of the pedal (welding)
The first one I bought did just that, it was made for 65 66 and the guy said it worked on all. It wouldnt fit without modifying my cowl.

I see that Mustang Steve cable and that tight turn right there by the MC or booster being a PITA to work on the back two plugs or anything in that area, headers etc. Modern Drivline comes forward, down by the oil filter then back. Nice and smooth and out of the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
i mailed mustang steve and he says the new kit uses a 96 cable which is much longer, he used to ship the fox cable, but the new one clears the oil filter and round very much like the modern driveline one.


i think ill probably end up with the modern driveline kit, but its a shame in a way the cable is bespoke, what i eally want is a combination of stock cable and bolt on bits, ie, modern driveline pedal, bolt on quadrant and late model (96, longer) cable... mainly because i`m in the uk and geting parts always means a load of additional shipping costs.. maybe ill jet get driveline to send me a spare cable for the boot, though its supposed to be a good cable and unlikely to go any time soon, from what i hear.
 

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Which ever way you go with the cable or even hydraulic. I would recommend that you put some kind of protective heat sleeving over the cable or hydraulic line near the headers. I've had a couple get melted and the same goes for the speedo cable on non stock applications.

I think I would lean towards the Mustang Steve setup and use the 96 Mustang cable. You can buy it anywhere, Verse Modern's cable. Only able to buy from him. I think at one time he wanted $75 for a cable.

Jet
 

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There was a article in Car Craft magizine in the past 6 months, where they modified a Maverick clutch pedal setup with the Fox body stuff. So, Yes it can be done.

Jet
 

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I dont know about that quadrant, keep in mind on the 67 and 68 Mustang, you have a lot less room at the top of the pedal than the 65 and 66. The cowl bottom on the 66s are flat, and the 67/68 dip down. Ergo why the first system I had wouldnt work, a 1 inch tab welded to the top of the pedal hit the bottom of the cowl.
Thats why I like Bruce's. That cable from the Ebay link looks JUST like mine, same thumb screw adjustment and all. Modern Driveline gives you a backer for your firewall too, which with the cable is a must as it flexes.
I wrapped my header tube with the old funky wrap, and put a sleeve on the cable, you could grab the cable on either side of the sleeve and it was good to go.
 
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