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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a C-6 in a 76 ford f-150 4x4, it leaks intermittently( 1 time I can go 30 miles w/o a leak othertimes 10 miles and its pouring out of the bell housing, I installed a new seal for torque converter when I rebuilt the motor (torque converter was from 69 c-6, 76 converter sheared a bolt off removing it) is it possible this is the problem or more likely the new seal? or possibly the pump seal to case? I was thinking of ordering a new pump, I have a new converter now too but don't want to pull everything then have it leak again when I reinstall with a new seal and converter!

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: cmajerus on 9/27/06 6:22am ]</font>
 

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Did you lubricate the lip of the seal when you installed it? was there any wear on the snout of the converter when you put it in? Did you replace the bushing in the pump that keeps the converter centered in the pump? Any of these can cause intermittent leakes at the converter seal.
Don't order a new pump untill you take yours apart and look at it. Damage to pumps is very rare unless converters are not installed correctly and the gears break. If you can't feel the wear marks on a pump gear or the housing then it is as good as it gets. Replace the bushing and seal and lubricate the gears, bushing and seal with vaseline or automatic transmission assembly lube when you install them. Use a light film of loc-tite gasket maker in the bore that the seal goes into to make sure the outside diameter of the seal doesn't leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
the bushing problem makes sense, didn't realize that. I always lube everythinglike you said, but never thought about bushings
 

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I recently had a new hub welded on my torque convertor and had it balanced. After installing it I noticed that it leaked at the front of the tranny in /around the seal. Upon removing the trans I noted that the front pump bushing had moved forward. Turns out the hub was welded .017 off and acted like a corkscrew causing the front bushing to 'walk' forward putting pressure on the seal. They're normally staked into position......Hope this helps.....John
 

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rcodenewf,
If the snout was welded .017 off I would be taking it back. The tollerance for the snout is less than .005" runout and perpendicular to the mounting surface plus or minus .0005"
Most converters are less than .001 runout and as close to true perpendicular that it can't be detected off. .017 is way too much runout - that will never seal and it will continue to roll bushings even if you use the bronze bushings instead of the babbit ones. You might be able to slot the holes on your flex plate to make it work but it is not worth the work - take it back and have them fix it.
Paul
 

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Hello Paul..you betcha. As soon as I found the problem I took it back and they put a new one in and she's fine now. Just a pain in the 'you know what' to remove it.........John
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I finally got to my leak problem I am ready to pull the pump out of the front of the tranny, mopar has threaded holes to pull the pump out with, how do I pull the pump out of my c-6? Also what kind of seal does it have to the case a gasket or o-ring? anyone know a part # off the top of their head so No Auto Parts Available gives me the right one?

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: cmajerus on 10/22/06 9:23am ]</font>
 

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Is the C6 leaking when the truck is running or off? My friend had a C6 leak (when the truck was off) due to a missing 4x4 filter extension.

Good luck,
Gerald.
 

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On 2006-10-22 16:48, boullestergm wrote:
Is the C6 leaking when the truck is running or off? My friend had a C6 leak (when the truck was off) due to a missing 4x4 filter extension.

Good luck,
Gerald.
Umm..How does that happen then?????
 

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On 2006-10-21 18:14, cmajerus wrote:
I finally got to my leak problem I am ready to pull the pump out of the front of the tranny, mopar has threaded holes to pull the pump out with, how do I pull the pump out of my c-6? Also what kind of seal does it have to the case a gasket or o-ring? anyone know a part # off the top of their head so No Auto Parts Available gives me the right one?

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: cmajerus on 10/22/06 9:23am ]</font>
You can tap two opposing holes in the body to 3/8" and use slide hammers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yep I tried that last night tapped perfectly( I was concerned with the tap getting into the case threads but it worked great) You can just tighten the 3/8 bolts into the pump flange to push the pump out without damage to the case threads also, thats how we do our 727's
 
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