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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was told by Jays machine shop that line boring my 351w is a waste of money! Is he talking my money or his? My good friend who I trust says he has all of his done no matter if he races it or not(chevy).
I don't want to go against my engine builders knowledge because he has been in the same place for 40 yrs. He said it loosens up the timing and the 351w is one of the best from the factory. I mentioned that they had a wealth of different bearing to choose from and he said "that's Honda"
Any thoughts?
 

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Not sure what he means by "loosens up the timing". Most machine shops recomend it, even if simply changing to main studs from bolts. Cloyes has options on timing chain sets to offset the closer centerline from crank to cam. I'd look for another machinist. M2C

Matt
 

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Measure it or test it. Both "always" and "never" answers are wrong in my opinion. Reality is that most do not need it, but you shouldn't guess if you should or not. It is a simple matter to test or measure to know, rather than spend unnecessary cash, or skip it if you needed it. I would keep your machinist for now, as his answer is closer to reality, and he can show you how to determine if you need it or not - or do it for you. FWIW

David

PS: There is a difference between line boring and line honing. A quick hone to compensate for minor distortion from bolts to studs is one thing. Boring to restore alignment through the caps is another. Make sure what your machinist is suggesting about passing judgment.
 

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Measure it or test it. Both "always" and "never" answers are wrong in my opinion. Reality is that most do not need it, but you shouldn't guess if you should or not. It is a simple matter to test or measure to know, rather than spend unnecessary cash, or skip it if you needed it. I would keep your machinist for now, as his answer is closer to reality, and he can show you how to determine if you need it or not - or do it for you. FWIW

David

PS: There is a difference between line boring and line honing. A quick hone to compensate for minor distortion from bolts to studs is one thing. Boring to restore alignment through the caps is another. Make sure what your machinist is suggesting about passing judgment.
bolts to studs
no need to line hone/bore or whatever . the very small change can be matched just by removing the cap and reinstall

OP , like PSIG said , check the main bore . checking tells whats needed.
your machine shop is 98% right , its that 2% when not check-bites you in the a$$

All- any shop tells you the block needs line bore/hone, ask to see the specs. no got the specs, look for his gun- your getting rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I Did a little more searching and have a better understanding of what's going on. Watch out for a block that has already been aligned bored "aligned bored blues" I think was the the title. My bearings weren't spun as far as I know and the crank spun freely(compared to the none I've had previously spinning) in my garage when I tore it down but it was not looking good(normal?) It was a STANDARD BORE block from a Mercury montclair. I am now concerned about "end play" tolerance on blocks with automatic trans with low maint. in particular!(mine looked like all the other greasy turds I had) My 72 block had an FMX originally, so I would like to inform him of that!
I guess if it's not broke don't fix it might come into mind. I am a sceptic by nature and am fighting it daily! Honing might be a better option? Thanks everyone.
Cheers!
 

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I Did a little more searching and have a better understanding of what's going on. Watch out for a block that has already been aligned bored "aligned bored blues" I think was the the title. My bearings weren't spun as far as I know and the crank spun freely(compared to the none I've had previously spinning) in my garage when I tore it down but it was not looking good(normal?) It was a STANDARD BORE block from a Mercury montclair. I am now concerned about "end play" tolerance on blocks with automatic trans with low maint. in particular!(mine looked like all the other greasy turds I had) My 72 block had an FMX originally, so I would like to inform him of that!
I guess if it's not broke don't fix it might come into mind. I am a sceptic by nature and am fighting it daily! Honing might be a better option? Thanks everyone.
Cheers!
A cure to end being sceptic- get the max done at a machine shop.

sonic check , line hone , index decks , cam bores , lifters bushed w/BHJ , cyl. bored/hot hone . about $1 1/2K/$2K
 

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I was told by Jays machine shop that line boring my 351w is a waste of money! Is he talking my money or his? My good friend who I trust says he has all of his done no matter if he races it or not(chevy).
I don't want to go against my engine builders knowledge because he has been in the same place for 40 yrs. He said it loosens up the timing and the 351w is one of the best from the factory. I mentioned that they had a wealth of different bearing to choose from and he said "that's Honda"
Any thoughts?
You need to find another engine builder. Most likely if you need to do anything at all it will need line honing. Not line boring. Line honing is usually recommended when changing from say a bolt fastener to a stud. Line boring your block is a waste of money. Line honing that I've seen done material is only taken off the main cap and nothing is removed from the block.
 

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You need to find another engine builder. Most likely if you need to do anything at all it will need line honing. Not line boring. Line honing is usually recommended when changing from say a bolt fastener to a stud. Line boring your block is a waste of money. Line honing that I've seen done material is only taken off the main cap and nothing is removed from the block.
you say the bolt to stud swap . any type of fastener is change on the mains ?- a line hone is necessary.
then you must know how much the change in the bearing bore is.

how much is the bore changed ?
you have to know
 

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Home way to test, put all 5 main bearings and a little 30wt oil together with the crank in, no rear seal and see how it spins. I've had some spin so easy, no need. Some seemed to drag in a few spots. But that can and usually is the crank a little off.
High dollar machine shops use a laser tester, but bring a TALL STACK OF GREEN WITH YOU.
Personally, align hone only unless you replaced a main bearing cap. Normally the metal is taken off the cap side so it doesn't "loosen" up the timing chain tension. Besides just how much do you think it would loosen it up if only a few thousands was removed. You couldn't even tell.
One of the bad things about someone that has been "doing this for 40 years" is they also don't keep up with the latest technology changes. I've never had a problem because when someone does, they take the next one somewhere else. 40 year skills are good, but they also need to keep up with the changes. Just look at piston design and cam profiles now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Agreed, He is definitely set in his ways and stubborn. I just brought him a harmonic balancer, flywheel world prod. heads and cam and told him to do what need to be done, I am no engine builder and he is, so I have to trust his judgement of the situation. I will find out soon enough what was needed.
Has anyone else used him? Jay's machine in Everett Wa. He and his son have been racing sprint cars for years.
 

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Agreed, He is definitely set in his ways and stubborn. I just brought him a harmonic balancer, flywheel world prod. heads and cam and told him to do what need to be done, I am no engine builder and he is, so I have to trust his judgement of the situation. I will find out soon enough what was needed.
Has anyone else used him? Jay's machine in Everett Wa. He and his son have been racing sprint cars for years.
"do what need to be done" - I have no idea what that means if daid to me.
part of the build is you given specific instructions.
instructions can be limits on cost , machine work done parts....
unable to give it ,talk it over with the shop on goal /expect from the engine

drop parts off and saying do it is wrong on your end , unless you gave prior instructions
 

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"do what need to be done" - I have no idea what that means if daid to me.
part of the build is you given specific instructions.
instructions can be limits on cost , machine work done parts....
unable to give it ,talk it over with the shop on goal /expect from the engine

drop parts off and saying do it is wrong on your end , unless you gave prior instructions

I used to race a Cleveland in super stock back in the 1970's and was having problems with Streaching tming chains after a line bore. Bob Glidden told me if your engine needs to be line bored chuck the block and start with a new one! He told me the line bore moves the cam center line closer to the crank causing my problem ! A chain will be to loose and a gear drive will bind causing a drop in power! i never questioned him because He was going faster than any other ford I ever seen1
 
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