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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
when the car is ambient temperature, like when i go out in the morning to start it up, it fires up really fast and idles good.

After i drive the car around for a little while and it is up to temp it then turns over ALOT longer but then fires ( maybe five to eight seconds)

Any ideas what would cause this?
Thanks
Jake
 

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Have you tried holding the gas pedal to the floor then starting it when it's hot? Could be timing or could be the fuel boiling in the carb and flooding it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
no but i will..
car also hasnt been timed in a long long time i guess i better do that soon..
Parade today so im hoping for some quicker starts so people dont think its broke hahaha
 

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Hope the parade went well! If it's flooding, holding to the floor to start will work good. If it's timing, instead of cranking forever, just turn the key for a bit, then off turn then off and it will find that sweet spot(which is probably TDC) and start right up. Mine still needs a little attention and at times acts like the battery is low when it's hot so i just do the on off thing and it starts right up like nothing was wrong. I do it that way as there's no sense in just steady cranking and putting wear and tear on starter and battery when i know it will start the other way.
 

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I sort of believe you can boil the gas when you shut your engine off. Remember gas boils at 68 (best I remember) degrees. The fuel running through metal fuel lines will drop the temperature of gas by 36 degrees. The hottest time your engine will see is when you shut it off. And, there's no way except by electric fuel pump to get the gas back through the lines except to crank it.
My RV4 (airplane ) would heat soak on the tarmack while stopping to refuel. If I didn't turn on the electric fuel pump the engine would quit after the gas was used up out of the carburetor bowl when I started the engine again. It had vapor instead of gas in the fuel lines around the engine compartment. Happened every time. The fuel pump would push the vapor through the lines when gravity wouldn't. Jim PS A good way to tell if it's gas starvation is take the air cleaner off the carb before you start it and see if the accelerator pump squirts gas after it's had a chance to heat soak. My engine does the same thing. But if I turn the engine back on in a short time after I've shut it off it starts without even pumping the gas pedal. That's why I think it's vapor with my engine.
 

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I have heard a lot of people have these problems, I think it is related to the E10 fuel. If it is older than 30 days it starts to degrade, it also has alcohol in it and therefore is harder to start, unless you have a closed fuel system and fuel injection. I too have that starting problem with my truck. Try this, first think of the problems as the easiest to hardest, boiling fuel in my mind would be on the hardest end of the scale. Make sure your choke is adjusted right, take the air cleaner off as you start it hot, test the fuel pressure and make sure it is correct for a carb 5-7 psi, check your fuel filters for clogs, make sure carb is getting enough fuel, wrap your fuel line in a heat shield or get it off the manifold, put a plastic (forget the name) spacer between carb and manifold (that is supposed to reduce temp by 20 degrees). Does it do the same in the winter months, sometimes E10 goes away in the winter. good luck keep us posted.
 

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I have the same problem, and it's started to tick me off.

The cure, I get under the hood, tap the distributor clockwise (slightly) and, bang, starts right up.

Lasts for a few hundred miles, and then I have to tap it again.

The distributor came out of my 352 and is now in my new 390.

My 352 had the same problem, so what it wrong with the distributor? (Please note, I'm a backyard mechanic, and that's probably stretching it a bit.)

Maybe we have similar problems.
 

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I had the same problem with my 63, 427, started great when it was cold. almost wouldn't start at all once it was even just warm, I tried ALMOST everything, with 4 X 2 straight away thought of flooding, so i didn't touch the accelerator, that didn't work, so i tried the opposite, pump it a few times, that didn't work, retarded the timing, still no go, then a mate of mine said he had heard of some cars with the same problem and they fitted heavier earth leads, I thought to myself, Nah, no way, but decided to have a look at the earth lead, Had nothing to lose, So with the same lead i just give the lead a better connection at the block, And to my AMAZEMENT it fixed the starting problem, if i hadn't seen it myself, i wouldn't have believed it, it hasn't stuffed up once since i fixed the earth, It turns out there was a voltage drop of 2-3 volts when starting, Don't ask me why it was only a problem on Hot starts, coz i haven't got a clue, Trust me it's a simple thing to do and certainly worth a try,

Hope it helps, Regards, larry
 

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I had a 283 that did that, just had to pump the sh!t out of it and it would start up. I've heard suggestions like wrap rubber hose or aluminum foil around the fuel line but never tried it myself.

I don't think it is fuel boiling out of the bowls though. If that was the case, how do they magically fill back up to give you a quick start after the car cools down?
Hmm now that I said that I wonder if you are getting a vacuum in the tank that acts sort of like a coolant overflow system where the liquid is sucked back as the engine cools down? After shutting down, blow a puff of smoke around the gas cap and crack it open. If the smoke disappears you need to fix sometrhing back there.
 

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I don't think it is fuel boiling out of the bowls though. If that was the case, how do they magically fill back up to give you a quick start after the car cools down?
Now FINALLY someone is making sense! Thanks for noticing that the fuel "Magically" refills the carb after the car is cooled off Tom. LOL :)

Now that The fuel boiling out is 97% disproved with one statement...

How about flooding? Fuel boils up and enters the throats and floods it out, but the carb isn't empty, THAT is why the car starts fine when cold.

Lower the fuel level in the carb by about 3/8" or maybe 1/2". See if that helps.
 

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had this problem.
Coil was getting too hot mounted on top of the engine. I changed coil and mounted it on the front of the block and no more problems. It was just getting too hot here in the deep south.
If I change the intake on the old 390, I'll probably block off the exhaust crossover.
 

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I actually heard my gas dripping out into the carb with a hiss every few seconds til the bowl level is lowered not empty. Which in turn flooded it so I'd hold the gas pedal to the floor to start it like you should when it's flooded. I replaced the original spacer with a phenolic(plastic) one and lowered my fuel levels just to be sure. Which is why i suggested holding pedal to the floor to start when difficult to start. Then you can rule out flooding without it costing you anything. Checking the choke opening is good idea also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Im not really concerned about the fuel i use the car everyday and it goes through alot of gas and its a brand new tank so all is well and clean there.. Well as clean as the new fuel gets..

Ive tried a bunch of crap and checked the grounds.

Tonight im going to set the timing and see if that makes it go away..

Thanks for all the input
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
O and the parade went fantastic two cars overheated and pulled away and two cars were tossing alot of smoke but the old gal kept going.

Was in the 90's outside and over 100 in the car in the sun.. It was HOT
 

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O and the parade went fantastic two cars overheated and pulled away and two cars were tossing alot of smoke but the old gal kept going.

Was in the 90's outside and over 100 in the car in the sun.. It was HOT
Great show for Galaxies all over!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
i checked the timing and what not and it was at 6 degrees but i didnt mess with it because the vacuum advance is not pulling any vacuum..

I dont know much about distributors but the plate the supposed to move inside wont move by hand not sure if its supposed to or not?

The guy that was helping me said the centrifugal advance was working.

What do i do know?
Get a new vacuum advance ? or do i need to get a new dist? is that plate not moving a problem?

Thanks
Jake
 

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vac advance is for gas milage .leave it if you don't care. gas is expencive. i'd remove the can and check to see if the point plate is frozen. there should only be vacuum there at cruise speeds, not at idle
 
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