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I am looking to buy a 1966 Galaxie 500 XL 2-door with a 390. It was originally being sold for $4500 six months ago, then down to $3500 two months ago, now down to $2500. The seller notes he bought it for $3500, but needs the money and has no time for it.

The seller notes car runs and drives, though I haven't driven it myself. I have examined the car for the outside and it has some small rust bubbles in a few spots and I did note a little Bondo in a few all spots on the quarters. Underneath, the frames look good and I didn't see any floor pan issues.

The seller noted all this, stating that the previous owner did a crappy job on the body. He had full intention if fixing it, but no longer has the time.

I have him talked down to 2K. I am going to take a more thorough look tomorrow afternoon and have him start it up. What kind of severe issues should I look for with a 66 Galaxie, and what do you all think would be deal breakers? Thanks everyone!
 

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Hi Killermedic,

Do you have any more pictures of the car? We have 3 of these 66's, ones an XL two are just the galaxie 500's.

The car in your picture does not have the XL grille, and it's hard to tell what the interior is like. So my guess is that it's not an XL, just a regular galaxie 500, or maybe even a Custom 500 as the side badges look to be missing. If that's the case and there's plastic filler on the body and there's no recent engine work, then it's probably worth around a thousand or less, and that's if it truly runs and drives OK.

Something tells me there is probably a lot of old corrosion hidden under that filler and paint. Could be a great project though :)

My two cents :)

DesertXL
 

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I have learned that value has a lot to do with what part of the country you are in. Up here in the rust belt that car would've sold within hours at $2500 I think. At least based on what I can see of it anyway.

Other than that I can't tell you much about the `66. So I guess what I'm saying is that I have nothing important to add and I'm probably just wasting everyone's time by typing this. I'm clicking submit anyway, I've already gone this far.
 

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$2000? Buy it!
On edit - I see you live in Florida so I will amend my post to say "If it has A/C, buy it!"
 

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If you like it get it. Don't listen what some say. I have a 4-door 65 and love it. My buds rib me for having a 4 door but I don't care. Besides if you talk about rarity--most 4-doors were police and taxi and have been long ago crushed. I don't see alot of 4-doors out there compared to 2 doors. I'm not in it for the money, I enjoy working on it!! You're not gonna make money restoring it so have fun and enjoy!!! I think it's a great deal.
 

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the things near 50 yrs old, still drives... if you like it go for it! only thing I'd harp about is really check out that frame- sooooo many of these cars suffered from frame rot, odds are not really great.

I got some parts off a really clean wrecked 66 out in Pueblo Colorado junkyard, body was great (except rearended) pulled control arms, some trim, etc for ours, couldnt believe how nice the (bent) frame looked... tapped with a screwdriver handle sounded weird under the front doors, stabbed right thru it with the screwdriver blade, was full of dirt/rust inside. I'll try to find pics I took of the underside.

if you go to check it out, ask the guy if its ok to tap around the frame with a mallet- check torque boxes, rails towards front and front/outside of the rear arches- those were always the spots Ive seen rot first- they can look fine, but still be paper thin.

pics of that 66- it was clean except inside the framerails- you can see the hole on the inside corner of the last pic
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What's absolutely amazing is that I just happen to log into this forum to give an update, only to realize that it's been 2 years to the very day the last post was added. Amazing...

So I just wanted to thank everyone and their feedback and provide an update. After getting everyone's feedback, I did a second inspection of the car and boy did I find rust! The entire trunk floor was rotted. Frame rails were sketchy at best, especially the rear. There was rust all over the place and I decided to let it go.

Fast forward two years later and guess what I happen to acquire not even 3 weeks ago? A 1966 Galaxie 500 Convertible with barely a lick of rust and little to no body issues. While the only downside is that the original 390 was replaced with a 351W, the car is in great shape.
 

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i'm not even sure i'd consider the 351w a downside.
I guess when I get mixed responses about it having the 351 instead of the 390, it makes we wonder a little. I know the 390 has some good torque, but at the same time, I know that 390 can be expensive to build up, plus it is pretty damn heavy too. What are some of the pluses in keeping and building up the 351W???
 

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this may sound dumb but an upside is you already have the 351w and its running. I got an 390 to "drop" into my car and next thing I know i'm down to the short block just because "I'm already in here" after a small little issue and it totally snowballed for me
 

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I guess when I get mixed responses about it having the 351 instead of the 390, it makes we wonder a little. I know the 390 has some good torque, but at the same time, I know that 390 can be expensive to build up, plus it is pretty damn heavy too. What are some of the pluses in keeping and building up the 351W???
a 390 car is worth more.

unless you like to floor it often, the 351 is an xlnt engine and can be built as large as 428 but i dont go over 418 and 408 is the most common.

you also have lots more room with a 351.
 

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yeah, a FE seems to have the "cool factor", but there is way more aftermarket (and even OEM) parts/support for the Windsor.

just an example:
go to Jegs.com and type in...
"ford fe head" - 289 results
"ford 351w head" - 856 results

if I had the choice between a 390 and a roller 351, i wouldn't even have to think on it.
 

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The kicker on those cars is the frame rust-out. I used to have customers that came in (1978 or so) with a no-brake condition, hoist it up to see where the brake fluid went... 99% of the time it was the line along the driver side frame (if you call it a frame) rail.

I'd fix it with a new line, but show them the damage just so they were aware it may happen again. I saw one that was fixed by a "shop", new line with compression fittings... yikes!!
 

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The kicker on those cars is the frame rust-out. I used to have customers that came in (1978 or so) with a no-brake condition, hoist it up to see where the brake fluid went... 99% of the time it was the line along the driver side frame (if you call it a frame) rail.

I'd fix it with a new line, but show them the damage just so they were aware it may happen again. I saw one that was fixed by a "shop", new line with compression fittings... yikes!!
7-15-2003 127 by ford4v429, on Flickr
ours was 'kinda rusted'...
 
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