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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have what I have been told is a GT40 crate motor, but with stock E7TE heads, weiand stealth dual plane, #1406 Edelbrock 600 cfm, .542 lift int/exh Lunati Cam not sure about duration, 1 3/4 Shorty headers, 5 psi fuel pressure, 4.10's out back, T-5 tranny, 6000rpm rev chip. For those who are going to tell me to get rid of the Edelbrock carb, please don't. I have heard it from many people. Some might say thats because Edelbrock is junk, but it's what I have so please be un-bias if you are gonna help me.

Car launches hard out of the hole. 1.75 60 foot, 8.99 1/8th, but I can't get the E/T any lower than 14.15 at 95. It seems to lose considerable acceleration once into 3rd gear and of course even more into 4th. I know that stock 5.0 mustang have no trouble getting into the mid 14's, so I can't figure out why mine is only slightly faster.

Any suggestions/help is appreciated.
Thanks

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Strangeleek on 9/19/06 5:24am ]</font>
 

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Shift at 6,500 and 3rd will feel MUCH better...

Just DON'T BLOW IT UP!




FE
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I thought about that just wasn't sure I wanted to take out the chip and risk over-revving it. I don't have a 6500 or 7000 chip to try but maybe I should invest in one.
 

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You could try it without the chip before you buy one. Sounds like a lot of cam and headers for the rest of the engine...a little more RPM would probably help it though.

I agree that shifting a little higher should help. Its worth a try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think I'll do that. The motor was built/bought by a guy I went to high school with and he sold me the car for very cheap. I was told they were GT40 heads, but come to find out they were not, as stated in the first post. So I plan on buying a set of AFR 165's, that should really kick some life into that motor, and bring the cam to full or close to full potential.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, I think I found out why 3rd and 4th don't pull very hard. Apparently the guy that had the car before me wasn't worried too much about the brakes, because the calipers on both sides are squeezing the rotors. At first I just thought the car nosed over because it had 4 cyl springs but it turns out I always have my brakes on, lol. That would explain a little!
 

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If your breaks were draging like you suggest, you would smell it at the end of the run. Pad life would be very short, if they are not on fire by the end of the run.... Also the very next time you went to use your breaks, (before they cool down) they would be squishy, since hot pads means no breaking power.... I don't think your breaks were your issue.

Your last postings were last fall about this issue, if you have been running recently, and you feel it is a lot better, then it is because of your carb. The winter air vs the summer air makes a huge differance in race speeds.

Your cam is too big for your car. A simple solution would be to go to 1.5 ratio rockers and get rid of some of your lift. Second, if your still insisting on keeping your carb, then it sounds like it needs to be tuned for summer weather. Sounds like it is optimal for winter air right now.

Could be as simple as a spring change for your metering rods. They maybe border line between being restrictive as they are at partial closure in warmer weather, and full open in winter weather.

Fuel pressure is a bit low too... may want to get it up to 6.5 pounds....

Best of luck....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well I don't think i've run the car since my posts in the fall. If so only once and it wasn't any better times. I know for sure I haven't run it with the brakes fixed (because I havent fixed them yet). Also, i know for sure my brakes are dragging because when I jack the car up, it requires two hands and a little bit of muscle to turn them.

As for the carb, that is understandable. Except the metering rods are controlled by the vacuum in the manifold, not outside air temp. I change the to the Orange 5" Hg springs to allow the springs to raise the rods sooner. My father and I spent a few nights at the track with a carb calibration kit tuning it with a little bit of progress.

I've been told before my cam is too big but I'm in the process of upgrading some other things to help that out. Do you think GT40p heads are a enough or is it still too big for those?

I'll bump the fuel pressure as well, see how it response.

Thanks for the input Mike.

Nate
 
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