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OK earlier you said if i needed help with some info on the 302....you can use some program to help me figure out the best combo? Can you do that for me? The money is not so much a problem...Im willing to wait and save for everything above and beyond what i have set aside. I have to use the parts i already have though....and i cant stroke the motor. What i have is a 69 302 block and crank, eagle I beam rods. KB 9:9:1 compression flat top pistons. Im going down to Summit this saturday to get some more parts and want to get as much as i can...The engine is going in a 67 mustang coupe. It will be my daily driver...and see strip action every weekend. I want the engine to be as reliable as possible....while i getting the most hp as possible. Ill be running a C-4 and a 9" behind it with probably 4.11's or 3.73's. No clue on the stall yet...i want it to match the engine. O THe machine shop who is doing the engine wants to use Roush 2000 heads. I kinda want AFR 185cc...But whatever is better. What should i use? What else should i use on the engine....Im curious about everything...all the info is great! Any help you can give me with your program is appreciated. Thanks Ryan
 

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Ryan, it looks like you have a good durable shortblock to build on. If I remember right you want over 400HP but still want to be able to drive it on the street. I ran a bunch of combo's for you. If you want to run AFR heads on your engine, go with the AFR 165's. They produce a far better torque curve, broader power band, more peak torque, and more HP at all points under 7000 RPM when compared to the AFR 185's or the Roush heads. The higher intake velocity makes the smaller heads better.
I came up with two combo's that work well. One is less streetable and makes more power while the other one is more street oriented and has a broader powerband. Interestingly though, both engines seem to make peak power at around 6500 RPM therefore a solid lifter cam is neccesary.
The first, milder combo, is an RPM AirGap intake, Comp Cams Magnum solid 270S cam (the spec are, 224-224 .499-.499 110 l/s +4) with matching springs and retainers, a 750 CFM vac secondary carb, and 1 5/8" long tube headers and the 165 AFR heads. This combo made 378 ft/lbs at 4600 RPM and 391 HP at 6400 RPM. The engine reached 300 ft/lbs of torque at 3000 RPM and was still making 286 ft/lbs down at 2600 RPM. With this combo a converter that stalls between 2500 and 3000 RPM would work well. Projected idle vacuum is 12.5 inches.
If that's not enough and your version of streetable is a little broader, I've got a second combo for you that'll put a grin on your face. Use the same AFR 165 heads, but this time with a Victor Jr. intake, the same 750 vac secondary carb, a Comp Cams Magnum solid 282S cam and kit (specs: 236-236 .528-.528 110 l/s 110 +4) and 1 3/4" long tube headers. This combo made 437 HP at 6600RPM and 404 ft/lbs at 5000 RPM but low end torque suffers some. This combo reached 300 ft/lbs at 3600 RPM and was making 284 ft/lbs at 3400 RPM. To make this engine fly you'ld need a converter that stalled in the 3400 - 3600 range and a good tranny cooler to go along with it. But with the right gearing, it would rip. The projected idle vacuum is 8 inches.
For both engines it would be neccesary to run a very good 3" exhaust system with good two chamber Flowmasters and dump the exhaust in front of the rear tires. If you are worried about not having a streetable car the first combo would probably be better, but if you can put up with a really rough idle and don't mind running around town with a really high stall converter and want to go fast more than anything the second combo would be better. A hydraulic cam of any kind will be pumping up at peak power RPM so don't let anyone talk you into one of them. A header of either size would work on either engine without problems, just don't go with shorty headers or anything under 1 5/8" diameter tubes.
I hope that helps you get your engine together Ryan. Let me know what you think.
 
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