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I have purchased a set of full length mad dog headers, Mark the owner told me "gaskets are not needed just a small amount of hi-temp silicone to seal them" when I told this to the mechanic/buddy who is helping me with car, he looked at me like I was crazy and said that he had never really heard of people doing that. I told him well that is what the owner/maker of em told me....so I don't know. Any people on here used mad dog headers, and what did you do....gaskets? hi temp silicone? ???
 

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hdvictim,
I run Mad Dog Headers and Mark told me the same thing. I chose to run the copper gaskets that are real thick. Mark is right about not having to run gaskets if everything is milled smooth. But, seems the only people that were telling me they ran without exhaust gaskets and didn't have any problems were the drag racers. I wouldn't know how they could hear it if it were leaking. So, I went with tried and true. Haven't had a leak yet and I should retorque them. Jim
 

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hdvictim,
I run Mad Dog Headers and Mark told me the same thing. I chose to run the copper gaskets that are real thick. Mark is right about not having to run gaskets if everything is milled smooth. But, seems the only people that were telling me they ran without exhaust gaskets and didn't have any problems were the drag racers. I wouldn't know how they could hear it if it were leaking. So, I went with tried and true. Haven't had a leak yet and I should retorque them. Jim
I'm looking for some headers for our 63 Galaxie 500 boxtop 4door sedan. It has a 352 with a cruise0matic tranny. Did you have any issues installing them on your 63 , if that's what you have them on? Maybe you can give me the link/ number..
 

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All I can speak of is the Mad Dog Headers. My car is quiet and doesn't have any leaks. Everything went really good. It's a puzzle putting them together but not really something anyone couldn't figure out. I had to do away with my generator splash pan ( I run an alternator anyway ). Also I have power steering and if you crank the wheel all the way in either direction the tie rods hit the pipes. I've just learned to leave that little extra tug on the steering wheel out.
I will tell you that if you have an older car with weak springs, Mad dog headers will probably hit the ground if you bounce the front end going over dips in the road at a high rate of speed. I put new springs in mine, the convertable with A/C option.
If you're looking for header options just keep asking people that have them and they can tell you the good and bad with what they've got. Jim
 

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I have a set of Mad Dogs on my 67. They fit real nice, low though so they do scrape the ground occassionally - I need new shocks and the springs are originals haha. Once this is done I doubt they will scrape. They go below the front crossmember and look pretty tough. I reccommend getting them ceramic coated.

Not sure about gaskets, I had the mechanic fit mine, will look when I get home...
 

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I have a set of Mad Dogs on my 67. They fit real nice, low though so they do scrape the ground occassionally - I need new shocks and the springs are originals haha. Once this is done I doubt they will scrape. They go below the front crossmember and look pretty tough. I reccommend getting them ceramic coated.

Not sure about gaskets, I had the mechanic fit mine, will look when I get home...
Cool, thanks. I did get them ceramic coated! Now just need to get them installed!!
 

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HD,
i Just put headers on my 390 truck. I too was told no gaskets needed. My friend who is a machinist told me if everything (block and headers flange) were perfectly flat and straight, you could get away with it. I decided to use this instead and have had no issues for about a year so far. Not trying to sell these things but they worked really well for me. Kinda pricey though.
FORD Header/Exhaust Manifold Gasket

Again I got my headers flat and straight and then cleaned off the heads (as best I could) and then put these on, so far the are perfect.
JIM
 

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HD,
i Just put headers on my 390 truck. I too was told no gaskets needed. My friend who is a machinist told me if everything (block and headers flange) were perfectly flat and straight, you could get away with it. I decided to use this instead and have had no issues for about a year so far. Not trying to sell these things but they worked really well for me. Kinda pricey though.
FORD Header/Exhaust Manifold Gasket

Again I got my headers flat and straight and then cleaned off the heads (as best I could) and then put these on, so far the are perfect.
JIM
Thanks for the link Jim. I will look in to that for sure.
 

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Weld on some skid plates... Saved my headers numerous times. ;)

I'm going to do this as soon as my '66 is back on the road. It had the original springs and wouldn't even move with three people in the car, the headers were basically sitting on the ground. Now I can't get the new springs in, as the lower control arms can't go low enough with the front pipes in the way. While it's been sitting, I put a heat shield on the starter as the rear tubes are like a quarter inch from the stock starter.

Also, I used just the copper RTV on mine and they've held up quite well.

Even after being quite dented up from a couple of weeks with the old springs, they're holding up quite well and haven't developed any leaks.
 

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Copper RTV? Are you referring to the same gaskets as mentioned in the previous post with link?
Nope, I meant the Permatex Ultra Copper RTV. I might end up actually getting a set of those actual copper manifold gaskets, but for now the RTV is holding up and those gaskets aren't cheap.

Hell, I've gone through six sets of FE valve cover gaskets in the past three months and would've used at least three sets of the header gaskets if I wasn't using the RTV. Once we're ready to take the '66 on the road up to Carlisle next year, I'll look into switching to actual gaskets. (wanted to hit the swap meet this year, but the suspension is taking way longer than expected.
 

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Nope, I meant the Permatex Ultra Copper RTV. I might end up actually getting a set of those actual copper manifold gaskets, but for now the RTV is holding up and those gaskets aren't cheap.

Hell, I've gone through six sets of FE valve cover gaskets in the past three months and would've used at least three sets of the header gaskets if I wasn't using the RTV. Once we're ready to take the '66 on the road up to Carlisle next year, I'll look into switching to actual gaskets. (wanted to hit the swap meet this year, but the suspension is taking way longer than expected.
I guess I don't know what RTV is, I will hit up the nifty ole google machine!
 

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back in the 90's i started using the orange permatex high temp rtv silicone. the first set of headers were hookers. my stainless arp bolts were a tad short so i didnt use the gasket. used 3/8 bolts with a reduced 5/16 12 point head and torqued to 37 ft lbs with a snap on torque adapter. never had a leak.
 

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back in the 90's i started using the orange permatex high temp rtv silicone. the first set of headers were hookers. my stainless arp bolts were a tad short so i didnt use the gasket. used 3/8 bolts with a reduced 5/16 12 point head and torqued to 37 ft lbs with a snap on torque adapter. never had a leak.
You bring up another good point, using 12 point bolts. I bought a set of ARP bolts for mine and man are they helpful when installing/removing the headers. Much lower probability of the heads stripping.
 

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From experience, I did not want to believe Mark (aka Mad Dog) when he told me red RTV. I've used it with no failure. I'm impressed!!

No ground clearance issures here!!
 
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