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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
The correct Grant adapter is #4286 but, some guys have ended up with a 2" space from back of wheel to colomn,if you have a solid shaft with no rag joint, seems its an easy fix.
Since it's a 65 it called for a different part # in the catalog and website than the earlier cars. Not sure if that was do to one of the changes that happened in 65 or not.

The Bondi guys came up with a collar to take up the space & also fixed the signal cancelling issue.
Not sure if this was a part of the collar fix or a separate part to fix signals, but, I know they made more of them for other F;lane guys, I will call Ted the owner, see if he can recall the fix.
Sounds Awesome. Look forward to hearing what you find out.

Did you say what rear rim/tire size your running?
With the 8.8" I got 245/50 x 16;s with room to spare, may go larger but looks/rides/handles great for now.
All four corners and my spare have American Racing Outlaw I wheels. The wheels are 15x7 with 3.76" of backspace. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/are-ar615765/ On them I an running 215/60R15 Kelly Charger GT tires. It's the wheels the car came with (well except for the spare) and they work decent. They are an all season high performance tire & I haven't broke them loose on a turn yet but I know there are better tires out there. They are on the very ragged edge of backspace (as in not enough) so when I swap I will be going to more BS. Right now they sometimes rub up front on a turn going up into my driveway if the passenger weight is too high. That is after I rolled the fender. It was worse before. Lowering the front & widening the track (with the disc brake swap) were both factors to the rubbing.

I eventually want to go for a more performance oriented tire when funds allow. I was thinking something like this. https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/scott-drake/product-line/scott-drake-1964-73-mustang-anthracite-classic-wheels/ with a 4" back space on the front on 17x7's and 17x8's with a 5" BS on the back. Probably use a tire like the G-FORCE COMP-2 A/S in 215/45r17 and 245/40r17.

I'm also considering a rear end swap. If I do that then I may change the width on the rear which would consider a whole new thinking on wheel size. Right now the stock 8" is fine with the low HP the stockish motor puts out. But the gearing sucks (factory stock 2.80). If I am going to invest the money in a new set of gears, and seals, and a limited slip of some kind then a rear-end swap is definitely worth consideration when you factor in the limits of the stock rear end. Not sure if I want to do an explorer mod & swap or just order an 9" and bolt it in. That's a big expensive decision & not one I need to worry about now. I'm working on the car in stages & new rear, aluminum driveshaft, beefed up trans, and engine swap (maybe a 347?) will all come about the same time as new wheels & tires. And that likely won't happen until I pay off my F150 unless I blow something up.

First I want to get the window, door & top rubber done first since it limits when I can drive the car & that stuff is EXPENSIVE! Plus since I don't do windows (the glass shop can break the windshield or vent windows and replace it on their dime taking it out & in) I need to reserve some funds for labor on that too. I'm thinking that the whole job will cost me around $1500 for rubber & labor based on the quotes from the local autoglass place & Mac's.

Your console is way better looking than the Neon, the Neon front edge just, well, just ends before the dash, I think I will mount a 3 pod gauge cluster right there, give it a finished look.
then again, I may follow your lead & try to make a custom, more I look at yours more I;m envious!
Thanks! Well I see you can do one of 3 things. #1 Do what you said above with the Neon console. #2 Do what I did. #3 Do a combination of the two. By that use the neon console as a base, and then fiberglass on it to customize the fit to your car and style.

Fiberglass work isn't hard or overly expensive. It's just nasty & time consuming. It makes a huge mess, and it took me two weeks. Part of that time was design and part of it was learning curve. To do it again might take me a week. I think I spent maybe $200 plus paint, stain, and sandpaper I already had on hand to make the console. I also already had the shifter. Some of that cost is metal tubing/bar, wood and stainless cupholders, and stainless fasteners.

If you used a neon console as a base you might not need all those things. I googled it after you mentioned it & it looks like using one would have it's pluses. It certainly would be less work either as a base to fiberglass off of or as is. I like it has the armrest also. Not too crazy about the parking brake provision though. Looks like this guy filled it in with plastic & filled the gaps with road chip. Made a custom 3rd Gen Nova console Hmmm I'm not so sure how that will look in a couple years. I like to over build things and I know mine will not peal/de-laminate and it's also built strong enough to sit an adult on with the metal frame that the wood & fiberglass are resting directly on. It is also made to fit the car and the aesthetic of the car so it looks like it belongs. That guy does has an armrest and a storage compartment though. Those are cool things to have.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Well it's been cold & damp outside & I've wanted to work on the spare tire situation in my car. Mainly that it's not tied down in anyway. The stock tiedown was missing & I didn't want to use a stock tie down on my aluminum rims and scuff them up anyway. So I decided the best way to mount the spare was to use the lugnuts. I saw how they mounted 4x4 wheels on the back of jeeps & started there. I bought one of these. And I got a carriage bolt with the right threads for the stock mounting hole.



Then I figured out which holes I needed & cut away everything else.




I found the center & drilled the center hole. I then sat it in place and made sure it would fit with some brass bolts I had sitting around before I went & bought the correct size & pitch bolts to fit my lugnuts.








I then welded the bolts on the back. I also welded a nut on the back and drilled the threads out to make the bolt down hole thicker and easier to keep a straight line on. This is what is looks like installed afterwards. I screwed it down tight and then used a nut on the bolt to act as the hold down when it was threaded down all the way. That was lock-tited in place.








I then cut the head off the carriage bolt and welded on a T-Handle that I cut to 6"




Next came a few coats of Dupli-Color Wimbledon White from the aerosol can.












Here is how it looks installed. Next down the road: Velcro to hold down the floorjack. A cover & velcro for my tire tool. And finish up my sound system install with an amp (500W?) and a 12" sub.













Because I didn't post them earlier here are some pictures of my ride last summer when I had her out on the streets turning heads of young boys & making lady's swoon. Featured also is my little princess. :grin2:

Sitting just right.




"Daddy I wanna drive!"




"You mean you want me to wax the whole thing!?!?!?"




Sitting like a Muscle Car should.




"OK Dad, I want the Fairlane when I'm 16"
 

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Nice! I'll bet she's driving the F;lane before 16 too!! LOL
I put a call into Bondis auto, guys who did my wheel/signal cancel, Ted is away but the guy knew what I was talking about & will look for the notes/parts they came up with.
 

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So what did you use for a head unit for you stereo , and you said you were updated you amp to a 500W unit and a subwoofer ? man that is a lot of sound, what amp did you go to and subwoofer


By the way , very nice car , love the white, hope mine looks this good some day .
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Thank you for the compliments. :)


OK I wanted more bass in my car. The 6.5’s and 6x9’s do well on the mid’s and highs but can’t hit the low notes on some of my music. I was originally going to install a 12” but the box I ordered had a tear in the carpet. I decided to take the carpet off to paint it or maybe cover it in bedliner or something. As I tore it off I discovered what a POS that box was so back to the drawing board. I looked around and decided to do a 10” since it would fit the space better. I then did a bunch of research on box design, subwoofer design, and how they interact. I did a bunch of shopping and decided on a box & subwoofer that would work well together. Shown below is the QBOMB10VL ported box made from ¾” MDF and Rhinolined. With it is the Rockford Fosgate P3D4-10 Punch subwoofer that goes in it. The Subwoofer is 500w RMS rated and needs 1.4 cuft of space in a ported box which the QBOMB10VL is. It is a dual 4 ohm voice coil sub and is wired to run at 2 ohms with the 14ga wire I had left from my previous work on the sound system. This is more than enough for 500w running the short distance from one end of the trunk to the other end.







To keep the subwoofer from moving around I used a carpet transition strip I picked up at the hardware store and screwed it down to the plywood filler panels I showed earlier in this thread. With this bolted down on this side and the amp’s and battery box on the other side along with the tire in the middle and it does a good job holding down the trunk mat so I can Velcro stuff to the mat. I used the Velcro brand Extreme Outdoor Velcro for holding down my jack & my subwoofer. It has holding power of 1lb per 1” and nothing has moved on me yet even with some hard cornering. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJPPYF8







Shown here is the empty box sitting in place. Still plenty of room to service the taillight without removing & if I do remove it, it’s just pulling it loose from the Velcro. This is a VERY well built box for an off the shelf box. I could build better perhaps if I had a wood shop but this does the job with no complaints.







Here you can see both the amps. These are mounted on spacers of ¾” square hardwood dowel that are finish sanded & stained to match the steering wheel & console colors. They run the length of the amp & the amp bolts though those to the floor underneath. This is to allow airflow under the amp to prevent overheating. The Subwoofer amp is a Rockford Fosgate R500X1D running at a 2 amp load. The larger main amp in the rear is the Rockford Fosgate R6004D that I covered in my post on 5/31/16. It runs the Kicker speakers I mentioned in the same post. That amp is a 600w unit but runs at 400W or 100W per channel when running 4ohms. The Sub amp comes with a remote control that I apparently didn’t photograph. It’s pretty cool though and is mounted under my dash so I can turn down the gain if I want. You might also notice I changed the wiring up a bit & cleaned up the install. I changed the fuseblock out to a KnuKonceptz Bassik 4 and 8 Gauge 2 Way Fuse Distribution Block since it will allow me to run 2 smaller footprint fuses in one block smaller than the other fuse block to power both amps. The tire tool for the time being is tied with wire to the jack case. This will be changed out to a bag as that will be velcroed to the case as soon as I can get my wife to sew it. The reason for placing the Jack on this side it to add weight to the where it’s needed & it blocks loose things in the trunk from sliding into the amps since it is velcroed down.







Here is the box & sub installed. I also sprung for a subwoofer grill since I do carry things in my trunk and don’t want holes poked in the subwoofer. I still have enough room on the trunk for a couple carryon bags or a bunch of groceries even with all the sound equipment.







And to answer gunnerthesnowm yes it is a lot of sound it’s really freaking loud. Like make your ears ring for hours loud if you sit in it for long with it up all the way loud. I usually listen to it turned up about 25% but if I am driving down the road with the windows down & want to hear my tunes clearly over the wind noise I can turn it up louder. If I want to hear it from a block away I can turn it up all the way. And it doesn’t rattle. All that sound deadening I did earlier paid off. Even with the base hitting so hard the mirrors vibrate & the seat top inflating & deflating with base notes it still won’t rattle. The one down side is the tach goes nuts when it’s up all the way since the voltage drops so hard. I need to upgrade to a 3g alternator at some point & that will fix that. I’m drawing a lot of current with all the amps plus my electric cooling fan. Since I don’t actually turn it up all the way much though it’s not much of an issue and doesn’t need the expensive fix right now of an alternator upgrade to enjoy the sound and drive the car. Also if you’re wondering about the head-unit I don’t have one. I am using a JL Audio MBT-CRX Universal Marine Bluetooth Audio receiver I mounted in my console. That I covered on my posts from 5/16/16 and 5/17/16. It is wired direct to 12v power at the main power cable fuse (see image above that shows the amps it the tiny red wire off the big red cable) with an inline fuse under the carpet seam by the console so I can change it if needed. It has a wire (blue wire shown in same picture) that powers on the amps. It receives a Bluetooth signal from my phone & converts that to a low level input for an amp though RCA jacks. That runs to the main amp & then runs through a pass through to the subwoofer amp. If you want to do something like this and not have a unit like this mounted under you dash or in a console there are other units that can be hidden but you will still need a small toggle switch to turn it on and off. The model I installed can also pause, skip forward or backwards on tracks, and control volume on the source unit which the hidden ones cannot. I have tuned the amps using test tunes on my phone with the volume on the phone signal all 100%. With the speakers disconnected I then turned the level on the amps up to just below the maximum A/C voltage that they should put out without clipping the signal. This article explains it How to Adjust Amplifier Gains Using a Digital Multi-Meter | Learning Center | Sonic Electronix I can then turn the volume up & down on my phone how much I want and not worry about the speakers since they are getting a clean signal. I used 100% on my phone as the setup base on tuning the amp since phones don’t clip Bluetooth signals at full volume unlike speaker level signals from traditional head-units.


I still need to do the weather-stripping at some point that is a bunch of green though so it will be a while. Paying off credit cards, summer vacation, and summer camp for the kid cuts into to car money. I did change out the upper ball joints and they helped a lot. Not enough to get what I wanted though. I am pretty sure the rest of it is in the lower ball joints. The PST ones are crap. The Moog K8036 uppers are much much better. I will be using Rareparts Diamond Series RP10617 for the lowers since apparently they are the only ones besides PST that makes lower ball joints. If someone knows of something better before I buy please let me know. I will probably get those later this month or next month & install them. I also did a little bit on the interior I’ll post at a later time.
 

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I really lake the looks of your vinyl cover back parcel tray , mine is just a painted paperboard, I think when I order my interior stuff ( doing that in the next couple weeks ) I will try and get some matching vinyl to do this with mine , YOURS CAME STOCK LIKE THAT ?




My wife stripped the vinyl off the old broken up original paperboard parcel tray. I got a thicker stronger hard board and cut it to shape. She then recovered it
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Thanks. No the guy's I bought the car from had painted it, converted it to floor-shift, ditched the stock bench for mustang buckets, and had the seats & the parcel tray professionally reupholstered before I bought it. Some of the stuff they really did poorly (like the way they bolted the seats down up front so I fixed some of it. I liked the upholstery on the package tray & wanted to keep it when I added the speakers. It still amazes me though that they even recovered the old one instead of just buying one or making a new one. The hardboard I bought is much tougher than the stuff they made the original ones out of and using the old one for a pattern it was easy to make a new one. If you can follow a line with a jigsaw you may just want to consider making your own.

I really lake the looks of your vinyl cover back parcel tray , mine is just a painted paperboard, I think when I order my interior stuff ( doing that in the next couple weeks ) I will try and get some matching vinyl to do this with mine , YOURS CAME STOCK LIKE THAT ?




My wife stripped the vinyl off the old broken up original paperboard parcel tray. I got a thicker stronger hard board and cut it to shape. She then recovered it
 

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Discussion Starter #49
My Fairlane was missing the trim on the lower part of the rear side panels on the interior. I looked for a while & couldn’t find it. I had some of the aluminum carpet transition strip and decided to make my own.





Nothing fancy here. Some tin snips, a flap disc on a grinder, a sharpie, and some paper.








A little work and a bit of shaping over the back of my bench vice.








And it’s in.







I think I may pop it back out later on and sand the back off to make it slightly shorter so it fits better. But you get the idea.
 

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Hi again Magnus, I have a ? about the JL Audio MBT-CRX Universal Marine Bluetooth Audio receiver , So if I understand it right , you have a set of RCA cables run from your Amp in the truck to your console and a RED power wire(what gauge wire) and then a BLUE wire( what gauge wire )any other wires going to the console receiver ?
Your picture of this is gone from your build tread.


I looked up the wiring manual for the MBT-CRX, look like red, blue and black and RCA jack.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Hi again Magnus, I have a ? about the JL Audio MBT-CRX Universal Marine Bluetooth Audio receiver , So if I understand it right , you have a set of RCA cables run from your Amp in the truck to your console and a RED power wire(what gauge wire) and then a BLUE wire( what gauge wire )any other wires going to the console receiver ?
Your picture of this is gone from your build tread.


I looked up the wiring manual for the MBT-CRX, look like red, blue and black and RCA jack.
Nope it's super easy to wire up. I took the red hot and ran it to the main power fuse in the trunk. (2nd image down next to tire) Since my battery is remote mounted I added a fuse to prevent a big fire if it shorted. It's mounted to the outgoing post on that. It has a fuse near the load that is just under the area that that carpet pieces overlap so I can change it if needed. The blue remote wire runs directly to the main amp and then runs from there to the sub-woofer amp. Both of those wires can be seen in the below pics. All that's left is a ground which is grounded to the frame I built for the console which is itself grounded to the floor of my car. This ground is also what I use for the backup light switch on my shifter. Then it has the 2 RCA cables that run under the carpet to the under the back seat and then into the trunk mounted main amp. There is another set of RCA cables that run from the main amp to the sub-woofer amp for those signals.







 

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Very nice fabrication work, so much better than buying something close and making it fit..built not bought, that s the way to do it!
 

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So all your other picture in this post are gone ?, could you post a side shot picture of your rear tire, just wondering how much clearance you have between your tire and the front of the fender wheel well outer lip.


Curtis
 

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y 62 with the old 16's on her, posting as I;m trying to figure out how to post pics. my 3rd attempt here!
Keep saying Max allowed is- 195kb
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Old pictures are still on the website but they no longer allow linking (unless you pay a crazy high fee) so I am just going to leave them there until they decide to delete them. Their service is slow & the website sucks anyway. Fairlane by jamescorriveau | Photobucket is the address for the folder if you want to look. Feel free to copy anything you want just don't share without giving me credit.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
So all your other picture in this post are gone ?, could you post a side shot picture of your rear tire, just wondering how much clearance you have between your tire and the front of the fender wheel well outer lip.


Curtis
Here is a picture I took after mass this morning.



I have just over two inches there.

My springs are also 1965 HD 5 leafs springs. They fit on earlier models are exactly like earlier springs & are exactly like earlier springs except they have 5 leafs rather than 4 for a smoother ride, they are the HD units so they are rated 20# heavier each. & being 1965 springs the locating hole is 1/2" further back to bring the wheelbase up to 1965 NASCAR specs of 116". IF you are running into clearance issues I would make sure you got sent the correct 1965 springs. I don't know where you ordered your springs from but 1962-1964 springs will not locate your tire in the same place although they will fit the car. I ordered mine from Eaton Detroit Spring. https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/application/fairlane-500/
 
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