I can't tell you how hard the car will be to steer with the adapter but from a performance point of view I picked up a tenth in the quarter just by taking off the belt.Maybe a little more when you get rid of the weight of the pump,etc.Sounds like a good idea to me.
I bought the same kit from Canadian Mustang and I think its great as long as you dont try to turn the wheel at a stand still. Personally if you want to convert it works well if you cant find the parts or money to do it properly.
I have a 351w with a manual R&P steering (TCP) my wife drives it with no problems. The tires are 225-60xzr15. It is stiffer than a power steering, but I have always hated Ford's power steering. No road feel.
My wife couldnt drive the Fairlane with the conversion valve, especially turning from a stop. I put the 205's back on and it was easier, but I found all the nessecary parts to fix the power so it went back on.
The valve is tons cheaper then fixing the p/s system, but also abit harder to steer, but gives you better FEEL of the road.
I converted (Ok I'm going to bring up the "Bow Tie" word again) a 67 Camaro from power steering to manual steering just this past year ... this is what it took.
First off ... Buy a manual streering gear box and (very important here) the correct steering knuckles and correct pitman arm.
Then pull off the old power steering unit. in it's entireity.
Now remove the old steering knuckles from the tierods and the front hubs.
Install the manual steering gear box and pitman arm (BTW ... required a different rag joint)
Install correct steering knuckles.
That was the process in it's entirity.
The steering knuckles are very important because they are longer when you have manual steering ... This gives more leverage on the front hubs for easier turning.
I also went to skinnier wheels and tires on the front ... Two reasons ... #1 Skinnier makes for easier turning ... #2 These tires run at about 40 pounds of pressure ... Which also makes for easier turning ... Wife drives the car without complaint
Las Vegas Nevada
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: monstermach on 1/24/02 6:53am ]</font>
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: monstermach on 1/24/02 6:56am ]</font>
I run a 16:1 box with the shelby pitman arm and 225-50-16's on my 65 coupe. You definately have to get the car rolling to make much progress in cranking the wheel. I think I might try skinner tires next time.
Sure there is. My '68 Torino is factory manual steering. If i ever get the thing up to the car wash, i could probably get you the factory p/n. I know what you are talking about with the factory "power assist", it sucks. and you thought your grandpa's lincoln was numb. i had it on my '68 Cougar, the belt got clipped three weeks after i bought it
Yeah there is a manual box, but that means a center link change as well, Which gets expensive since they dont make boxes anymore, and center links are hard to find. Easier (and mostly, cheaper) to put the conversion valve on.
They are year specific too, 65/67 and 68/70, etc. plus model specific to. Mustang/ Cougar, Torino/Falcon/Montego, etc. also input shaft length and sector shaft diameter.
I installed a flaming rivor steering gear box and it works great its tight so you still have allot of road feel,the car sterring was sloppy at best before,tryed to rebuild the old box ,,but it was a dog past its prime
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