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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to install a '86 Ranger manual disc brake master cylinder in my '66 Fairlane. I need room for my fabricated aluminum sheet metal valve covers to fit. Well the new M/C came with the push rod already installed. I want to use the original '66 push rod. What is a good, safe way to remove the push rod without damaging my new M/C?

Thanks,

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Doug
1966 Fairlane 390/C6

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: fairlaniac on 11/9/06 10:26am ]</font>
 

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Well I can tell you from personal experiance that in general they are NOT supposed to ever come out.
I "upgraded" to a MustangII 8 inch rear and pinto discs in the front. Original was drum front and smaller drums rear. SO i got the "proper" MustangII Master Cylinder for the system i had. Well, in haste I popped the Mustang pushrod into the bore. When i tried to hook up the brake pedal it was near horizontal !! "Ohh crap"
Well I tried EVERYTHING at my disposal to get that bastard out. so i could put the new Pinto pushrod in i had. I ended up trying grease to lube it up while pulling on the pushrod. Nothing but a bunch of cuss words. I then took it to work and held the rod in a vice and then used some bolts to push against the body of the master. Well i did nothing but distort the soft aluminum piston to the point that the thing was trash.
Sorry to be long winded but some had told me that it just pops out with enough force. Not mine!
Id take it back and try to exchange it with a new one that doesnt have it installed.
Good luck.
 

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I have shared 71Pinto's frustration MANY times. I hate to say it, but I have had to get dirty to find a pushrod.

I have found that it is MUCH easier to order a master cylinder from a part shouse (it will come with a pushrod).... swipe the pushrod, and then return the master cylinder.

I know, it's theft....sorry.....

Fact of the matter is, the Ranger m/c will likely need a different pushrod than even the stock fairlane part! At least that was the case when I swapped a ranger M/C into my Torino.

If you really want to try something that MIGHT work.... I have been successful with it many times..... Secure the m/c carefully in a vise, and rig up a slide hammer to snatch the pushrod out. It will really be in there, as it is held in place by a super strong internal clip, but it does work.

Good luck,

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm sure they are meant to come out as there are service kits availble. Tough to service with pushrod in place. Service kits come with new piston without the pushrod.

I already have 3 of the pushrods that I need. I need the new one out of the piston.

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Had the same problem when going to disc and using the "proper" MC, rod ended up being about an inch too long. I cut out a 1" section from the middle of the rod and welded the two end pieces back together without removing the rod from the MC. I've even seen guys section the rod, thread each half, and put a coupling nut between them to make the rod length adjustable.
 

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I used to do that job all the time. It's a pain in the neck.
Like the man said- slide hammer to do the yanking and
a big vise to hold the master cylinder.
It's actually easier to pull your own teeth with a string
and a doorknob though......
 

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If you really want to try something that MIGHT work.... I have been successful with it many times..... Secure the m/c carefully in a vise, and rig up a slide hammer to snatch the pushrod out. It will really be in there, as it is held in place by a super strong internal clip, but it does work.

Good luck,

Greg
That's kinda what I did with mine, it was a bitch, but it did come out eventually.
 

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On 2006-11-09 07:20, GregP wrote:
How did you manage to weld that rod back together?
??? With a welder?
 

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On 2006-11-10 06:30, GregP wrote:
I kinda expected that type of response. Hope the weld holds for you.

Greg
Wasn't trying to be a smarta$$, but the point of your question wasn't clear. Like any other butt weld, have a v-groove between the two work pieces and fill it in for good penetration. The pushrod is always in compression, there's no shear or tensile pull loads applied, so it's plenty strong for the application. Been in there about 5 years now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Got it out! Put it in a vice. I dropped the rear diameter in between the jaws and had the weight rested on the mounting flange and left the push rod dangling from below. Took a long drift and in three whacks of the hammer it disintegrated the metal retainer clip and fell out. No damage!

Thanks,
 

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there is a slim tool for getting them out, you have to feel with the tool, press it in a certain spot down in the hole and pull the rod out. many new mc's come with a new clip so if you examine it and how it works, it makes it easier. my wholesaler also does some brake machining so they did mine in a vise in 5 minutes. the slide hammer i guess would work but may be possible to damage the mc...not sure.
 

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I did what bmcd66250 said, and pulled the rod, cut an inch out, threaded it, and put a coupler with two jamb nuts to make it adjustable for the new MC. Works quite nicely.
 
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