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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looks to be pretty straightforward, but was wondering if any tips or tricks I need to know about. Never done one before and I likes to be prepared.

Thanks as always!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Yes, Like GE said, Benchbleed it... Then do it again!

Dont push the cylinder in more then an inch while benchbleeding.

I used a piece of tape to tell me when to stop.

Also make sure its level as possible when your bench bleeding.
"The better to get the air out, My pretty"
 

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"The better to get the air out, My pretty"

Oh boy! That's great, especially when said with an evil cackling laugh! The one I use on my kids is the great Dorothy to Scarecrow line... "What would you do with a brain if you had one?" Gets 'em laughing every time!
 

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whats bench bleeding?
 

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You do need to go more than an inch of travel. You need to push completly in (slowly) and release (slowly). If you purchase your "Rebuilt" master at Autozone, it will come with a bench bleeding kit. Also more times than none their "Rebuilts" are NEW!
 

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Not TOO Quick there Galaxie feller.....

You do NOT push in the newer style MC's all the way before it is primed or you might damage the insides, and by damage i mean Disrupt the current positioning of steel springs and rubber seals and gaskets. Without fluid present inside the master cylindar things may go and often do go awry.... Besides... unless a total system failure occurrs you CANNOT push a bled mastercylindar in all the way.... The fluid would hold the piston back until a brake line blew or the MC tore through the firewall....

FE
 

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I must be Dazed and Confused
, Thought we were talking about "Bench" bleeding. I have always been taught to hook up bleeder tube(s) from the pressure side, then redirect into the reservoir, fill reservoir with fluid and do your manley duty to the master. Slowly in and out allowing bubbles to escape and remember this is done by hand with a rod something like a 3/8 socket extension, push in till it stops (easy) and let it go slowly to allow bubbles to escape you won't be able to apply a lot of pressure holding a 3/8 extension while trying to compress a spring loaded piston.

But then again I could be wrong and will need to back to school.


Read the link in the above "Bleeding Procedure"
& Here's another that says basically the same procedure.
http://www.misterfixit.com/brakbld1.htm
_______________
1962 Galaxie 500 - My High School Cruiser in 76, but much faster Now!

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Galaxie_406 on 3/21/06 11:25pm ]</font>
 

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On 2006-03-21 08:21, Galaxie_406 wrote:
I must be Dazed and Confused
, Thought we were talking about "Bench" bleeding. I have always been taught to hook up bleeder tube(s) from the pressure side, then redirect into the reservoir, fill reservoir with fluid and do your manley duty to the master. Slowly in and out allowing bubbles to escape and remember this is done by hand with a rod something like a 3/8 socket extension, push in till it stops (easy) and let it go slowly to allow bubbles to escape you won't be able to apply a lot of pressure holding a 3/8 extension while trying to compress a spring loaded piston.
This is EXACTLY how I've always done it. I don't believe that you can push the piston in too far unless you're Superman.

Scott, bleedin'M/Cs ain't rocket science. Follow Galaxie_406's instructions and you'll be fine....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I understand the procedure, was mostly double checking and wanted to make sure nothing was going to pop out (spring, etc) when I took the old one off the firewall.
Thanks everyone!!
Scott
 

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If it's manual brakes, just make sure to disconnect the brake pedal and brake light switch from the M/C pushrod under the dash or it ain't goin' nowhere......



Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
On 2006-03-21 12:47, 673904spd wrote:
If it's manual brakes, just make sure to disconnect the brake pedal and brake light switch from the M/C pushrod under the dash or it ain't goin' nowhere......



Jim
I can see it now, "G*&%$ thing won't come off!!!"


Thanks Jim!
 

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One small note wipe clean any brake fluid off any painted surfaces.It can lift up paint off of your good painted panels .I have seen it ,so keep several towels handy just in case.
 

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On 2006-03-21 08:32, tbirdchick wrote:
On 2006-03-21 08:21, Galaxie_406 wrote:
I must be Dazed and Confused
, Thought we were talking about "Bench" bleeding. I have always been taught to hook up bleeder tube(s) from the pressure side, then redirect into the reservoir, fill reservoir with fluid and do your manley duty to the master. Slowly in and out allowing bubbles to escape and remember this is done by hand with a rod something like a 3/8 socket extension, push in till it stops (easy) and let it go slowly to allow bubbles to escape you won't be able to apply a lot of pressure holding a 3/8 extension while trying to compress a spring loaded piston.
This is EXACTLY how I've always done it. I don't believe that you can push the piston in too far unless you're Superman.

Scott, bleedin'M/Cs ain't rocket science. Follow Galaxie_406's instructions and you'll be fine....
Yes! But I was only referring to the newer aluminum ford and chebby m/c's they will often not prime properly if you plunge it all the way down without the brake lines and pressure in the system (therefore the small stroke). Old cast disc drum or drum drum combo's are simple like Galaxie and Jan have stated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I took the old MC out tonite. Maybe a dumb question, but how do you get the old pushrod out? I removed the retainer clip but it's like the sleeve is hitting something. Or do new ones generally come with the push rod installed?
 

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Its held in by a spring retainer. You may need to use a little force.
Try adjusting a cresent (its early if I spelled it wrong sue me) wench over the shaft and give it a small decent tap with a ball peen.
 
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