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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey...haven't been around in a while, hoping someone could help me out.
Does anyone have any experience or opinions on the Mildon 4-bolt main kit for the 351W?
I'm trying to decide if I should go with this or a set of ARP studs with my stock caps. Does the 4-bolt kit actually increase strength, or do more damage than good, like stock 4-bolt chevy's? It's a splayed setup...

Looking for a strong bottom end to handle a nice big shot of N2O down the road (~250). Not looking for major RPM's.
Getting a set of capscrew bushed rods and forged pistons...scat 9000 cast 3.85 stroker crank.

Looking for 10's on motor this time around. Got a best of [email protected] on the old setup(no spray), but broke a piston due to excessive bore clearance (oops, screwed up puttin' her together. lol).
-PR
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have no idea...I'd have to look. 9.500 deck. It think its early 80's, out of a bronco.
 

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just take a look at the main webbing and if it looks like the block in the pic, its useless, see the casting lines where the 4 bolt would go?

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Awesome...I'll try to take a look at that tonight. Thanks.
 

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Any of the blocks 1979 (D9) and newer doesn't have a thick enough web to attach a bolt to.

Only the 69-71 have the flat bottom on the webbing so if the Milidons have a stepped bottom the must be used on the early blocks

Cat makes a flat bottom splayed cap that can be used on the blocks up to 79 that doesn't have a flat bottom across the web, like the one in the picture. The cap registers are milled off and moved farther out towards the pan rails for the wider cap it fit down in.
Its lots of machine work and will be kinda expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So, I'm pretty much better off with a good set of stud's if that turns out to be the case, huh?
I was pretty sure that stud's would be sufficient at this power level, but for a bit more money, would have gone with the splayed caps if ALL I had to do was drill and tap the block.
That doesn't look like the case, as I'm 97% sure its a later model block. Very glad I asked before throwing the extra money at this!
 

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There is way more to it than drilling and tapping the block.
The bores have to be bored to size then hone finihed.
I just had one done and the labor bill was over $300 not counting the caps.
 

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ya I would use arp main studs, then have them check line bore and make sure its within specs and the studs didnt alter the caps when torqued. I know plenty of people that just throw in studs and have never had a problem though without checking anything.
 

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is upgrading to a ford racing block an option? by the time you do the required machine work and modifications to a stock block the extra cost for the racing block really isn't that much more. IMO
 
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