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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I finally got some time thie weekend and the car is almost back together...
Although the accufab headers had to be "massaged"... everything else went pretty well. Just a little wiring and she's ready to fire.
The next race date is August 11-13... hoping to squeak into the 11's with these new additions...
Comp cam solid 538in /548exh
mallory 110 electric feul pump
MSD dizzy and wires
Accufab 1-3/4" longtube headers
 

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Looks great!

You don't run at the track with that little paper air filter do you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
LOL
I usually take it right off... and risk the dust factor. I have about 1/8" under the hood.... thank god the prothanes are solid mounts or I would have power bulges.
 

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Looking sharp! Is that fuel line solid all the way, or is that a bit of rubber on there to connect it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
There is a bit of rubber where it connects the hard line from the body through the inner fender to the hard line from the carb.
Pus there's about 4" of rubber to the NOS feul selenoid.
 

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On 2006-07-10 12:05, Thordane65 wrote:
LOL
I usually take it right off... and risk the dust factor. I have about 1/8" under the hood.... thank god the prothanes are solid mounts or I would have power bulges.
Your motor is looking great!!!!!!!!!


I have a suggestion for an air filter. Run down to Advance Auto or elsewhere and check out a Holley MaxFlow 360 14" air cleaner, model # 120-102. It has a radically dropped base, a 3" tall filter, AND you can run that Hi-Po air cleaner lid on it. It gives you the recommended 1 1/4" clearance between the top and the base for maximum air flow. I originally had one on my Stealth intaked 393 (with Bigs 750DP) and it cleared the stock 65' hood just fine.

Just TODAY I installed a Victor Jr. on the 393 and used the SAME air cleaner. I had to mod it somewhat and gained an additional 7/16" more clearance while still using the 3" filter and Hi-Po top. IT IS POSSIBLE TO FIT A VIC JR. on a 351w based engine UNDER THE STOCK 65-66 hood, with the right combination and a couple of mods. Sorry for the slight thread whoring since I am stoked--at least I didn't ask a question too.


Anyways, I hope you get your 11's and can set your sights on 10's....... Keep us up to date.


_________________
Dennis

65' Stang

393W Stroker, Wide Toploader 4 Spd, 9" 3:70 Posi

Victor Jr. Heads, Stealth Intake, 750dp, 236/561 Solid Cam, 9.6CR, 1 3/4" Headers, Lakewood, Subframes, Caltracs



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dennis111 on 7/11/06 7:46am ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thats great news Dennis!
I'll definately check that out!
Thanks for the comments guys... Totally appreciate it.
Im firing it up next week (going camping this weekend). Ive done everything I am supposed to do for a solid cam break-in plus even some praying to the muscle car gods.
Ive had 3 buddies lose cams (2 solid and 1 hyd)... and after I have had everything all cleaned, painted and prettied up I could not stand myself if I had to take that cam out.

 

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Trevor - Looks awesome. You will easily be in the 11's with the new combo. Let me know how the cam break in goes. I will not be racing at Port this year, Although I will be up there as a spectator. Good luck and LMK how it goes.

Shawn.
 

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this is off topic but what edelbrock nitrous kit did you go with? I am considering going that route. are you running 3/8 line? and what type of pump are you running?
 

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On 2006-07-10 22:15, Thordane65 wrote:
Thats great news Dennis!
I'll definately check that out!
Thanks for the comments guys... Totally appreciate it.
Im firing it up next week (going camping this weekend). Ive done everything I am supposed to do for a solid cam break-in plus even some praying to the muscle car gods.
Ive had 3 buddies lose cams (2 solid and 1 hyd)... and after I have had everything all cleaned, painted and prettied up I could not stand myself if I had to take that cam out.

I too worried about my Comp solid cam break-in and luckily had no issues. Poke around the Crane website as they have a wealth of break-in info. One of my favorites is http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=4 which tells you how to compensate for lash on a cold engine. Great for initial startups.

Hopefully you checked each lifter and made sure it spun freely in its bore during assembly.

Remove the inner valve springs (if you have them), install a good oil such as Rotella T, add a can of EOS (GM-$9), and keep your RPM's above 2000 (varying it) for 20 minutes or so you should be good to go. It is OK to shut the engine off early, if you must to fix a leak or whatever. After the repair, start it up and bring it right back to 2000rpm. Just be sure to not let the motor sit at idle until after the break-in phase has been completed.

After your break-in, adjust your timing, valves, carb, run the valves, and change oil. Then go out and break-in the rings. Massive amounts of spirited driving should follow.


On thing I didn't think of was the amount of heat being generated with the car being stationary so keep a water hose nearby incase you need to douse the radiator (which leads to a water spotted engine/engine compartment.) Better that than a overheated new engine.

A 2nd look at your pic makes me wonder if you have enough room for a drop air cleaner as the MSD distributor looks like it could be in the way. We are talking about about 1 3/4" drop over the Hi-Po base.

Good Luck with the break in!!!!!

_________________
Dennis

65' Stang

393W Stroker, Wide Toploader 4 Spd, 9" 3:70 Posi

Victor Jr. Heads, Vic Jr. Intake, 750dp, 236/561 Solid Cam, 9.6CR, 1 3/4" Headers, Lakewood, Subframes, Caltracs





<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dennis111 on 7/11/06 6:43pm ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dennis111 on 7/11/06 6:47pm ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes, I checked each lifter and they spun freely in each bore… tons of lube on the lifter and cam and I have the proper 15-40 diesel oil with lubricants in it with a bottle of EOS.
Inner springs are removed as well. I also was wondering about the heat as well… so I have a big fan set up in front of the car with water on hand as well.
After reading your post last night I went out and looked at the distance between the MSD dizzy and my Hi-PO air cleaner… and your spidey senses were right… I have about ¾ of an inch…. Barely enough room for the plug wire to fit at its current height.
A buddy of mine will be assisting in the operation and he has broken in solid cams for years… so hopefully I’ll be alright, or at least I can blame him.

 
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