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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Phil here,

Got a couple of questions......

Who here as used the product Bardahl Flush for engines and transmissions.

I hear this stuff does not damage seals so I was hoping to throw some in sometime around the 15th and do a fresh oil change as well as Tranny fluid change. I had my 1975 Ranchero for a while now i have been changing the motor oil but never really got around to doing the T fluid because i lost my job on the 10th of Feb.

Only reason why I would like to flush the engine cause i got 2 sticking lifters that seem to stick when ever the hell they feel like it. I am intending to change my oil to lucus oil for this one oil change for better lube up.

As for the transmission i know its either a 3 or 4 gear which is apparently in need for tranny fluid change. I get about 2 gears shifts out of it Unless i smash it to the floor on the interstate. Its quick to kick back in to 2nd/3rd gear after taking my foot off.

hopefully this stuff will do the trick....


Whats your thoughts on Bardahl's flush?
 

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The Bardahl shouldn't hurt your engine, but don't expect miracles from it. Our 40 year old engines often have a lot of crud built up under the valve covers, intake manifold and in the pan. This is especially problematic if one or more previous owners was lax in maintenance, the car was mostly used for short trips or it sat for far too long between uses. A while back I did a cam/lifter and intake swap on my very cruddy 1970 351C. Before I began, I ran some 5 Minute motor flush through it. Upon pulling the pan, timing cover, intake manifold and valve covers, I was horrified to see that this highly touted stuff had done virtually nothing to reduce, let alone eliminate, the baked on crud inside my engine.
Just did a valve seal job on my '71. It was no where near as cruddy after sitting for 15 years with apparently fresh oil in it. The valve seals had deteriorated during storage and blocked 2 of the oil return passages in the heads. Again, I had to pull the pan to clean out the mess. I did notice, however, not only did my car stop smoking, but that the engine was much quieter.
All three transmissions available from the factory in 1975 (C-4, FMX and C-6) were 3 speeds. Check the simple things before going to the trouble of changing your fluid. Check the adjustment of the kick-down lever, make sure your idle is properly adjusted, check that the vacuum modulator (on the back of the transmission) is getting manifold vacuum from the motor and that the diaphragm is not busted, then get the tranny warm and check the fluid level at hot idle in park (after cycling through the gears.) If your tranny fluid is any color other than red or smells burnt, change it, but don't expect that to cure erratic shifts. I believe all three trannys took Type F fluid in 1975. (Your dipstick or owners manual should specify this.) If someone used the wrong fluid in the past, that might cause problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The Bardahl shouldn't hurt your engine, but don't expect miracles from it. Our 40 year old engines often have a lot of crud built up under the valve covers, intake manifold and in the pan. This is especially problematic if one or more previous owners was lax in maintenance, the car was mostly used for short trips or it sat for far too long between uses. A while back I did a cam/lifter and intake swap on my very cruddy 1970 351C. Before I began, I ran some 5 Minute motor flush through it. Upon pulling the pan, timing cover, intake manifold and valve covers, I was horrified to see that this highly touted stuff had done virtually nothing to reduce, let alone eliminate, the baked on crud inside my engine.
Just did a valve seal job on my '71. It was no where near as cruddy after sitting for 15 years with apparently fresh oil in it. The valve seals had deteriorated during storage and blocked 2 of the oil return passages in the heads. Again, I had to pull the pan to clean out the mess. I did notice, however, not only did my car stop smoking, but that the engine was much quieter.
ok well my engine sounds fairly good but on one side of the case i know its some problems in there.. since i lost my job i feel like a ****ty owner and have not had the chance to go back and do another oil change. Today, I pulled the hose running from air cleaner box side that runs to the case.. I found something nasty where the stick is a gritty like deposit build up under the hole. This is a sign i need to do some work to it but i am broke right now so i kinda gotta suffer and bear with the tick i hate avoiding problems... and getting to my destinations for job searching is close by.... Once i get back on my feet i am going to do some major work. The compression is actually very good but that tick is unbearable to me feels like i am a vehicle beater.
 

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Hey Phil here,

Got a couple of questions......

Who here as used the product Bardahl Flush for engines and transmissions.

I
As for the transmission i know its either a 3 or 4 gear which is apparently in need for tranny fluid change. I get about 2 gears shifts out of it Unless i smash it to the floor on the interstate. Its quick to kick back in to 2nd/3rd gear after taking my foot off.

hopefully this stuff will do the trick....


Whats your thoughts on Bardahl's flush?
You transmission is a 3 speed auto all you are going to get is 2 shifts.....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The Bardahl shouldn't hurt your engine, but don't expect miracles from it. Our 40 year old engines often have a lot of crud built up under the valve covers, intake manifold and in the pan. This is especially problematic if one or more previous owners was lax in maintenance, the car was mostly used for short trips or it sat for far too long between uses. A while back I did a cam/lifter and intake swap on my very cruddy 1970 351C. Before I began, I ran some 5 Minute motor flush through it. Upon pulling the pan, timing cover, intake manifold and valve covers, I was horrified to see that this highly touted stuff had done virtually nothing to reduce, let alone eliminate, the baked on crud inside my engine.
Just did a valve seal job on my '71. It was no where near as cruddy after sitting for 15 years with apparently fresh oil in it. The valve seals had deteriorated during storage and blocked 2 of the oil return passages in the heads. Again, I had to pull the pan to clean out the mess. I did notice, however, not only did my car stop smoking, but that the engine was much quieter.
All three transmissions available from the factory in 1975 (C-4, FMX and C-6) were 3 speeds. Check the simple things before going to the trouble of changing your fluid. Check the adjustment of the kick-down lever, make sure your idle is properly adjusted, check that the vacuum modulator (on the back of the transmission) is getting manifold vacuum from the motor and that the diaphragm is not busted, then get the tranny warm and check the fluid level at hot idle in park (after cycling through the gears.) If your tranny fluid is any color other than red or smells burnt, change it, but don't expect that to cure erratic shifts. I believe all three trannys took Type F fluid in 1975. (Your dipstick or owners manual should specify this.) If someone used the wrong fluid in the past, that might cause problems.

Man! that stuff did the trick! My engine pures like a kitten now! My Hp has overall been restored... The tick is gone and i changed back down to 10w- 30 penzoil... Before i added it to my engine, I checked the color of my old oil, it was a light dark brown..... After adding the bardahl, Took it for a quick spin for 10 minutes. Started on a slow scale at 40 then pushed up to 60 with a quick burst from 0 at a stop light up to 70 just for this one time to insure all the crap turned to mush. I drove back home and let the engine stay on for a extra 10- 20 minutes..... Guess what? When i pulled the plug I found a foul, smelly, and greasy black sludge coming out of my engine when i removed the pan plug bolt. Looked like litterally watered down black tar. There was a few pieces of grit not much, but I took a look at it after i poured it into the empty jug. My idle is very much smoother then before. Infact, I am a bit scared due to how silent it is. I also found that my exhaust stinks a bit less due to the cleaning. Usually my exhaust smells a bit like burning motor oil/baked motor oil. I found it rather plesent to walk behind and not smell a foul odor from a far.


I am going to put a review up on YouTube for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The Bardahl shouldn't hurt your engine, but don't expect miracles from it. Our 40 year old engines often have a lot of crud built up under the valve covers, intake manifold and in the pan. This is especially problematic if one or more previous owners was lax in maintenance, the car was mostly used for short trips or it sat for far too long between uses. A while back I did a cam/lifter and intake swap on my very cruddy 1970 351C. Before I began, I ran some 5 Minute motor flush through it. Upon pulling the pan, timing cover, intake manifold and valve covers, I was horrified to see that this highly touted stuff had done virtually nothing to reduce, let alone eliminate, the baked on crud inside my engine.
Just did a valve seal job on my '71. It was no where near as cruddy after sitting for 15 years with apparently fresh oil in it. The valve seals had deteriorated during storage and blocked 2 of the oil return passages in the heads. Again, I had to pull the pan to clean out the mess. I did notice, however, not only did my car stop smoking, but that the engine was much quieter.
All three transmissions available from the factory in 1975 (C-4, FMX and C-6) were 3 speeds. Check the simple things before going to the trouble of changing your fluid. Check the adjustment of the kick-down lever, make sure your idle is properly adjusted, check that the vacuum modulator (on the back of the transmission) is getting manifold vacuum from the motor and that the diaphragm is not busted, then get the tranny warm and check the fluid level at hot idle in park (after cycling through the gears.) If your tranny fluid is any color other than red or smells burnt, change it, but don't expect that to cure erratic shifts. I believe all three trannys took Type F fluid in 1975. (Your dipstick or owners manual should specify this.) If someone used the wrong fluid in the past, that might cause problems.

You are a very useful person (kudo's)
 
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