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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello guys,

I was able to find bands, thankfully, for my 65 MX rebuild as discussed in another thread. Now I'm nearing completion of my reassembly and wanted to get your input on adjusting the front band, as the shop manual and some other things I've read online appear to be at odds with each other. The band adjustment is internal on these, so I'd like to get it right the first time and avoid having to get into the transmission again after it's installed in my car.

So, the manual says to put a 1/4" spacer between the apply pin and the adjuster screw end, then torque until the "tool overruns"...I believe this to be a breakaway type torque wrench, but the torque value isn't specified. I know on C4s I've adjusted this is 10 ft/lbs, but other sources on the internet say 10 in/lb for this band...that is question one, which is it?

The second question is, from there do I loosen the screw one turn or tighten it one turn. The manual specifies "backing off", but, again, online sources say to tighten...Any confirmation of that?

Thanks for your time!

Kelly

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Front band adjust….

I tighten to “snug with a wrench” on the 1/4 inch spacer and lock it down.

Heck, sometimes I just eyeball it to a 1/4 inch gap and lock it down.

“It’s critical but not critical” if you know what I mean. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Front band adjust….

I tighten to “snug with a wrench” on the 1/4 inch spacer and lock it down.

Heck, sometimes I just eyeball it to a 1/4 inch gap and lock it down.

“It’s critical but not critical” if you know what I mean. ;)
Good to know. The manual says in bold print, "Severe damage may result if the adjusting screw is not backed off exactly one complete turn"...made me nervous. There is a video on YouTube of a transmission shop in Utah redoing one of these, and he does it the way you described, exactly to the spacer and that's it.
 

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Yes, factory manuals are often full of dire warnings….
I have often set the adjustment simply by “eye and feel”.
Probably got it tighter than “factory” but never had a problem.
 

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yup. thats how i did mine, used a 1/4" THICK CHUNK OF ALUMINUM AS A SPACER, TIGHTENED IT TILL IT TOUCHED AND SNUGGED THE LOCK NUT DOWN.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, I may try to follow the manual just to be safe, but I'm glad to know there's some forgiveness to it. Thanks!
 

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Be sure to make the adjustment with the trans horizontal so the band is centered on the drum.

Good advice. I'll do that...right before I schedule that hernia surgery. :)
I usually adjust the front band with the trans laying on it's back on the bench.
I do this before I put the bell housing on.
For me, the bell is the last thing I put on the trans after its all buttoned up, pan is on, and trans on bench sitting on the pan.

Actually, I adjust the front band right after installing the servo and valve body.
You can also install the servo without the VB, that way you can air check it and get a visual on how it applies.
You might find that following the factory procedure of back off 1 turn from the 1/4 inch spacer results in a LOT of servo travel.
That's why I like to set it at the 1/4" gap and that's it.

Also I do the rear band adjustment right after installing its servo. (this comes before the front servo anyway)
That way I can air check it, and have a "visual" of how it applies.

Ya, hernia surgery.... I had that, not fun.

These cast iron units are heavy (you knew that) so I build the entire unit on the bench, rolling it around without lifting it.
 
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