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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All! You may know that I have been helped a lot by Wildo already. Him and his Dad have helped me cut about 80% of the body apart for possible resale and storage. I plan on sprucing up the frame to set my 65 XL body on later this year. I'll get things figured out and post pics along the way. Any and all input is welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well that was easy
That's my XL asleep under the covers in the background. I took the doors and the front tubs off on Sunday. Next I have to clean out the Garage and roll the chassis in and get started.
Initial plans call for front disc swap and new bushings. Box in control arms all new lines etc, etc, etc. Hopefully a posi diff as part of the rear axle rebuild. Do's Don't and watch out fors are all welcome.
 

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You took the front tubs and doors off the "frame" above..

Just wanted to make that clear, You almost made me freak out!

Post a pic of that "sleeper" when ya can. Let everyone see how pretty she is.


_________________
1965 Galaxie Fastback-351C 2v/C4 with a 3.50 posi

1973 Gran Torino Sport (sold)

2004 Cobra
2004 Marauder

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: wildosvt01 on 3/28/06 4:33am ]</font>
 

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Are you thinking of poly bushings up front? I know the strut rods must remain rubber (Drivability sucks with poly strut bushings). But the control arms you should be fine on. I kinda wish we went that route, But all is done and Im not ripping that SOB back apart again, I'll tell ya that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Looking at the next step in the body removal, the body bolts that are in the frony of the firewall. 2 on each side. I wrenched on them but they seem to be spinning.

Any hints as to how they come out?
I can't see a spot to get a wrench on the head of the bolt.
 

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we can take care of that Jerry.
It will need to be done when the rest of it comes off though. Cut cut cut!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I know they could be cut or torched but if there is another way

I read on Love Fords .com that a guy torched out the front of the Torque Boxes to get a wrench on them but I don't think I want to do that

I hope someone else has a suggestion.
 

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Im not talking about making a hole in the frame.Just cut the head of the bolts off. I highly doubt they will unbolt. The clip part of the clip nut broke/rusted away.
 

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I had a helluva time getting mine out too- two twisted off, other two just spun in the frame. awkwardly chopped it up with sawzall, but the bolts are rusty and maybe heattreated as they didnt like cutting...rubber mounts smokin...finally they popped- amazingly, the 'biggest' bolt was not over 1/4 inch diameter...looked like an hourglass as salt/dirt rubbing against rubber litterally just ate the 'hidden in rubber' centers away on the front 4 bolts- oddly all the other bolts on the car came out very easily except those 4 and the rear control arm bolts... frame had 3 foot gaping holes in side rails, frame bolts were rusted to under 1/4 inch, yet the goofy car didnt have a single squeek/creak...very solid bodys on these cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sounds like surgery will be the way to go! I don't know why I even thought about trying to get them out. They are all going to be replaced anyway.
I've noticed that all the other bolts are coming out easily too!!! The only one I had a prob with was on a spare rear end pinion snubber bolt. Wildo told me to drive a metric socket onto it and use arm power not torque wrench and it came right out.
 

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Chooch, I'm following along but have never done this type of work so don't have much input for ya. If I can help I'll chime in.
 

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On 2006-03-29 14:41, Chooch65 wrote:
Sounds like surgery will be the way to go! I don't know why I even thought about trying to get them out. They are all going to be replaced anyway.
I've noticed that all the other bolts are coming out easily too!!! The only one I had a prob with was on a spare rear end pinion snubber bolt. Wildo told me to drive a metric socket onto it and use arm power not torque wrench and it came right out.
well, you will want to try and salvage all the parts you can- Macs now sells rubber parts, but the steel pcs are kinda special, and not available. on your 'bad' frame probably best to hack into the torquebox like mentioned on lovefords frame article to chop the stud off from below/saving the steel/rubber parts up top. as long as you have 4 good front mounts, you should be set- most of the rest should be ok, with two sets to pick from, I'm sure you'll find enough good metal pieces. Even as rotted as my chassis was, all bolts except the front 4 came apart suprisingly easy. On the good frame- I guess any way you can hack them off would be ok...once the body's away you can grind out the clipnuts/remains that are stuck in the frame holes...I had to put new bottoms on my front mounts too- looking at it, still not sure what was holding car together...holes in front mounts ended up almost same size as the rubber- looked ok till it was pulled clear- looks like salt got in and rubber abrasion/dirt just ate the bottom away from the constant slight rubbing...I need to see if I could find a pic of my front bolts- a couple looked like a nail more than a 5/8 bolt. I hate rust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thats a good reminder, I will be able to cut into the Torque Boxes on the rusted out frame to salvage those front 4 mounts. I hate rust too, most of us do, which reminds me...in your syory you mention using some kind of paint on the inside of doors, fenders etc. Where does that come from? Painter supply store???
What do you think of Wildo's plan to use Truck Bedliner to cover and seal his undercarriage?
 

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I tore my new mustang apart in january with 300 miles on it, put a gallon of bedliner under it- pulled fenders, rocker covers...that stuff is pretty neat, I think It will last too, as its kinda made for abuse...neat thing is you can 'cake' it on very thick and it dont seem to shrink up or crack, but is easy to smooth/fillet into corners...
the paint I used on the gal was POR-15. you gotta use a metalprep solution(mild acid) to neutralize the rust, and etch the surface before using, but after doing that it just about cant be removed. bad thing is its very shiny/slick, so paint wont really stick to it(they sell that blue primer to put over it if you want to overcoat) and I used some under the mustang over paint, and it just blew right off soon as it dried...only works on bare treated steel. After using the bedliner, I have a new favorite- I would still suggest acid etch first to stop any existing rust from starting underneath, then just use the bedliner. one other thing- bedliner is UV stable(would have to be for bed use) where POR-15 is not- it bleaches out kinda grey/white if out in the sun much. POR will stop rust, but it is the messiest stuff Ive ever touched...bedliner should hold up nearly as well and seems to stick to anything...just scuff it a bit. I did inject por15 inside my framerails on the mustang till it drippied thru the gaps in the pinchwelds- where the gaps are filled, I'll still have tapelike por15 loose inside the bigger areas...dont even try using por15 over painted ares- it just curls up as it dries.
I shoulda just used paint on the new car, as theres basically no bare steel. the driveshaft/rear axle are bare and well rusted already, will probably POR these as it leaves a very nice durable shiny surface unlike the textured of the bedliner, but heck- its underneath anyways...maybe I'll just etch/bedliner them too...
for etch, around here ACE hardware sells "Ospho" brand phosphoric acid metalprep- you could also use duro 'naval jelly'- its about the same thing...ospho you can spray in a cheep spray bottle, just watch out for mist- dont breathe or let it settle on stuff it could mess up...I usually take the stuff outside, spray the grass down so any mist wont settle on dry grass and kill it, spray the dry part down with acid(stay upwind!) let sit 10-15 mins and wash it off with lots of water...lots and lots of water...then more water, then let it dry really well- if rinsed well enough, any rusted ares will just be kinda dark, but if not rinsed enough the part will look white/dusty from residue...but the stuff Ive painted after treating has never blistered...my 85 camaro was my first attempt at car painting, and it was done 11 years ago, all old surface rust treated ares still are perfect...the stuff does work. I like the bedliner for undercoating. heres a pic of my naked mustang:


I filled the inside/bottoms of my doors with bedliner, blended smooth to drains- no water will get into crimps...also masked/bedlinered the underside folds of same crimp to keep water out too- every car Ive had got first rust in bottom door crimp or rocker lower pinchweld areas. Also if youve got any seams to fill under your floorpan, 3M 'fast and firm' sealer comes in caulking gun tubes, and its good stuff- just dont put on too thick as it shrinks/cracks if over 1/8 thick...just use a little and overcoat with bedliner. thats my 2 cents on it anyway...just remember- por-15 over paint dont work at all- trust me...instructions say similar, but as hard as it was to get off everything, assumed it would still be fine-I'll be peeling off whatever left next time I get it up in the air...the POR under bens car aint going nowhere though- over etched steel, that stuff is hard as rock.
 

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Hey 4v429! I love how your taking car of the Mustang man! Lookin sweet!

Did you use it in roll on or spray? (Im thinking roll/brush)
 

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get one of those 3" wide rollers and some pan liners and go to town...harbor freight sells boxes of those cheep 1" paintbrushes- like 5 bucks for 3 dozen or something- brush reall heavy in corners, then use the roller to texture up close to corners- roll all open areas...as it dries it levels out a little tiny bit and leaves just a almost pebblegrain texture like a dashboard...needs a few coats with roller to build thickness, but it really covers well. I bought a quart to try it, then another, ended up using 4, still got a lot more I want to do- do yourself a favor and buy the gallon , saves about 20 bucks over 4 quarts...
in areas like behind the mustang headlights, dirt builds up incredibly fast- mine had a bunch just from washing it a few times...I brushed a couple heavy coats, then 'globbed' a bunch over and smoothed down with a popsicle stick to make a fillet...now it rinses riight out, rather than getting dirt in the vertical pinchweld that vees downward behind headlight buckets...I bought some new take-off black rockers today- will be putting them on maybe this week(gotta semigloss clearcoat them instead of painting my originals black- I dont like the body colored ones on the gt) if I get it up in the air I'll get some pics of how the thick stuff looks 3 months later- hoping it didnt shrink/crack- will let you know...

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ford4v429 on 4/2/06 11:44am ]</font>
 

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Cool! Ive been using the spray cans from Duplacolor. Stinks to high hell but its been on a month and no signs of popping. Sounds like your baby will be around for the Mustangs 100th!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Wildo and I got together yesterday and got his detailed rear end remounted. Nothing To It

I have to get the garage ready today and I need to get going on that frame of mine.
Never enough days in an hour.
The bedliner trick is the way I'm going to go on the XL underside before I set it down on the detailed frame

Gonna get some suspension kits ordered Monday and be ready to Get 'r Done
 

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On 2006-04-02 06:21, Chooch65 wrote:
Wildo and I got together yesterday and got his detailed rear end remounted. Nothing To It

I have to get the garage ready today and I need to get going on that frame of mine.
Never enough days in an hour.
The bedliner trick is the way I'm going to go on the XL underside before I set it down on the detailed frame

Gonna get some suspension kits ordered Monday and be ready to Get 'r Done
SWEET!


Did the links in my PM get ya all excited or what?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You and Bildo got me going when you came over and agreed to help me get going

I'll never be able to do as much for you as you two have done for me but I'll keep trying.
I got the garage cleaned out and took back all the cans and plastic bottles. I'm ashamed to say there were $130.00 but that will get me a lot of bushings and paint

I started cataloging all the "stuff" I have for the Gals and theres a lot

I'm going to try to line up getting the glass removed from the hulk asap so I can get the rest of the sheet metal off of that frame and get it pushed around the front of the garage.
I need to get going on my search for a new diff also, so much to do

Give me a round figure on the disc brake stuff from the bone yard would ya.
Later.
 
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