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the work on the car looks great man! one day ill have the room to tear mine apart and do a full resto like this. keep up the good work!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Thanks Guys,

I traced the out line of the new floors onto the old and then removed the new pieces. I cut out the old and cleaned up the edges here is what looks like. From top


From bottom


Set in the frame connector and the upright piece in torque box. Tack welded these pieces into place.


Next welded the filler piece I made between bottom of torque box and connector, Dril it for spot welds and also welding the seams


Here is what it looks like with the welding finnished.


Here is what it now looks like from the top. I also made a piece to weld the top rear of the torque box to the top of spring front mount and also the frame connector/rail the top of all 3 pieces are now solid, also welded the top of spring mount to inside rocker.


Now that the rear of torque box is welded to spring mount, rail, connector and rear floor it is very solid. The front of the torque box seems like it is a little lacking, only thing that connects the front together is the floor. And that is prob strong enough but thought while I am into it might as well make a brace/support up front too. Seen on others builds where they make a support between frame connector and inner rocker which is good idea, So I used some 16 gauge exhaust pipe to span the gaps and help support/strenghten the front of torque box to rocker. This will also help with floor. Best part is it will be hidden inside box once floor is in.


Put the front/outer piece of floor in. Spotwelded down thru it in the rear into the front edge of the bottom of torque box. Tack welded it across the pipe and spotwelded it down the side's thru the flanges into the connector and inner rocker




Still have a few places I need to weld a little. Then sandblast and coat inside of torque box with POR and seam seal the inside before I put the rear floor section in. I will weld the floor seams solid from the bottom so that it is smooth/seamless when looking at it.

Hopefully get some time this week to finish this side so I can move to the pass side next and do it all over again. Other side should be a lot quicker since I already have the templetes made and don't have to figure out how to do it / design it.
 

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Lou, you are an artist with mad bodywork skills! Thanks again for showing us your progress.

I was wondering if you were going to incorporate a roll bar in your Comet? Thought that you might want to stiffen the rear floor mounting with support connections to the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Lou, you are an artist with mad bodywork skills! Thanks again for showing us your progress.

I was wondering if you were going to incorporate a roll bar in your Comet? Thought that you might want to stiffen the rear floor mounting with support connections to the frame.
Thanks Dennis,

Wasn't really planning on a roll bar, although I have thought about it. Car would have to run 11.5 ET or lower to require a roll bar?? Really don't think I will be near that, LOL If car was a post would prob thought more on roll bar. But with it being a hardtop really don't want the roll bar breaking up the nice window openings.

Lou
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Great work. So it is to be a modern retro AFX car ??
Thanks Don,

Not sure but maybe. Original plan was basiclly 2 door hard top with ford motorsport 306ci V8, T-5 and big rear tires .. Wanted it to look like a car that may have been running the streets back in the late 60's early 70's with some updates and some updated materials.

Plan right now is Black paint, Cragar SS's, 347 stroker, dual quad, 4-speed toploader with V-gate shifter, narrowed 9 with 4:11 or 4:30 gears. I think I can fit 29x15.5-15 Hoosier Pro Street rear tires. Not sure what I am going to run on front.

The interior is still undecided, original bucket seats bring big bucks and not sure where I would get comet/cyclone upholstery. But if I could find orig bucket seats I would love to do interior in white.
Was also thinking Carbon leather bucket seats, Carbon fiber door panels and trim. Maybe even headliner and rear package tray in Carbon Fiber.

But plans always change sometimes daily lol.

Lou
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Update on car. Welded in the inner drivers rear floor panel. I also coated + seam-sealed the inside of torque box and the top of the front spring mount with POR 15 while I could still get to it before installing rear (underseat) floor panel.


After all was sealed/coated I welded in the floor section that goes under rear seat. I welded around the perimeter and also spot welded it down the center to the existing frame rail, new subframe connecter, and the brace I made for torque box bottom


Still had some pin holes in the front floor section. Cut out the rusted section of floor from frame rail to inner rocker in the front.


Took some sheetmetal and cut to size rolled some beads in it and welded it in. Also ground down all the welds so when I seal it will be flat.


Here are some pictures on what the new floors look like from inside car after cleaned up.






And what the new floor, subframe connecter, and relocated frame rail look like from underneath the car cleaned up. Even modified the brace for seat mount and reinstalled.


I have picked up some more of the parts I will need for the car. Bought a 4:11 center section with trac-loc off of CL. A friend gave me a set of brand new 215-70-15 TA radials for the front(which was way cool). The other day I needed a break so went to Summit and bought my wheels. 15x6 front 15x10 rear


To be continued..................................lol

Lou
 

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Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
Got some time to do a little more work on car. I sealed all the welds on the drivers side floors and frame connector


Sanded and sprayed with Epoxy


For materials: I wanted to make sure all my welds were sealed tight and sometimes seam sealer will shrink. So I decided to use 3m panel bonding adhesive to seal my welds.. After it set up I took a DA and smoothed it out then sprayed the new floor with 2 good coats of DP90 epoxy primer. I will use the 3M ultra seal to touch up some of the factory seam sealer after epoxy dries a day.


I still need to take care of a couple spots underneath then seal and spray epoxy.
Since drivers side is pretty much done I decided to take the measurements for my narrowed rear now. This way I can order it and do other side while I wait for it. Never really did this before but thought might be better to do it with the pass side still original. This way the Pass. side spring will be in its original position and will help center/position axle housing.
The original measurement from center of spring center bolt to center of spring center bolt was 42.75" Since I moved the rail in 5" the new measurement should be 37.75"
I installed the housing and hand tightened the U bolts on pass side. I used a spring perch from crites kit on drivers side and pulled spring in till I got the 37.75” from center bolt to center bolt then tightened the U bolts. Installed center section, axles, rotors and new wheels.


Took some measurements to make sure rear was centered. The measurement from inside of wheel edge to outside of spring is 7.25” on drivers side and 2.25” on pass side. The difference of 5” is the same difference I moved driver side rail/spring in. The wheels extend 2”pass the inner fender lip on both sides. So I figure housing is centered and in place.


The largest tire I am looking at using is a Hoosier 29x15.5x15 Pro Street radial. The section width on a 10” wheel should be 14.4” . My wheel is 10.9” from outside edge to out side edge. So there is 3.5” difference. So I divided the 3.5” by 2 to find out how much tire will stick out pass wheel edge on each side which is 1.75”. Next I took the 7.25” I have from inner edge of wheel to spring, subtracted the 1.75” for tire and got 5.5” so if I narrow the rear 5” per side(10"total) I should have .5” clearance between tire and spring on inside.. Which is little tight but think it is doable. And this is the measurement for the largest tire I will run if I go one size smaller I would have more clearance. For tire to quarter lip clearance. The wheel sticks out 2” if I narrow the rear 5” per side, then wheel to quarter clearance would be 3” and minus the 1.75 for tire it would leave 1.25” clearance between tire and quarter panel lip. Again measurement is with the largest tire I would run, 1 size smaller would give more clearance. I wanted the clearance tighter between tire and spring closer than the distance between tire and quarter because I feel there will be more movement between tire and quarter. Tomorrow I will call Currie and see about getting axle housing and axle package made.
I also got my front brakes this week. Summit has a sale on front disc brake conversion for Comet/Falcon, 4 piston caliper style, came with 11”rotors, calipers, brakes, mounts, hoses, and hardware. I think on the back I will just get drums. I have rear disc setup on the Versailles 9” I have. But I am not a fan of that setup.
 

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Finally got the chance to read and download all the pics, had to come to library where they have hi speed. Must say it was well worth it. You do fabulous work. Sorry I didn't get the chance to hook up with you on the quarter repair on my Falcon. Maybe someday. Excellent work you do.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Finally got the chance to read and download all the pics, had to come to library where they have hi speed. Must say it was well worth it. You do fabulous work. Sorry I didn't get the chance to hook up with you on the quarter repair on my Falcon. Maybe someday. Excellent work you do.
Thanks, Retyler for the kind words. sorry took this long to respond haven't looked at my build thread in awhile.

Did you get you quarter done??
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Been busy at the shop, Haven't got as much time to work on comet as i would like:(. I have made some progress though. Started the other side. cut the pass side frame rail off, blasted it, coated inside with por, boxed it and got it ready to install.


Made the pass side frame connector, coated inside and also got it ready to weld in. This took just as long to bend as the first side. everything else is going a lot quicker.


Built the inner wheel well, got it ready to weld in


Fitted frame rail to car made sure all my measurements were right on before welding it. Frame rails are exactly 10" closer front, middle, and rear.
They are also square with each other and square with front rails.
Welded the frame rail, connector and wheel well in. also made and installed the outer trunk piece


Decided to do the trunk floor/tank opening before moving on to the floors.
Here is the opening I started with. Basiclly open from inside frame rail to inside frame rail


I kept the original pieces I cut out. these fit nice and lined up right where they were before. But the tank opening is off center with pieces in original position. Closer to the left frame than the right. I wanted the opening and tank to be centered. This should give me enough room on each side of tank to run duals. I had to cut the front corner off the right piece and move it in so I would have enough clearance to move it over and center everything.


I installled the pieces with fasteners to test fit. I have almost 5" from tank opening lip to frame rail on both sides with pieces in place


Next I needed to fit the fuel cell/tank. I made some tank hangers out of 1/8" flat stock 1&1/4" wide. Bent it to fit around tank with little extra room for rubber strip. Also cut pieces to go acroos top of tank to tie it all together



Tank and hangers fit in opening nicely. may need to raise it a little to get lower cover to fit, hopefully not but if so only a inch or so. here is tank set in place


I still need to make my cover's, bottom and top. Going to cut old tank and section it to make lower cover. not sure what I will do inside trunk yet. Prob going to have to fab some kind of raised floor to seal off top. also want it all removable so if I need to get to tank.

I did pick up some more parts. Was planning on running Hoosier ProStreet radials, 29x15.50x15 on the rear. kind of pricey so I have been watching Racing Junk and Craigslist for a deal. I found a pair of Pro Street 29x12.50x15's on craigslist with wheels for 200. about 75% tread left. and I can sell the wheels for 80-100 so I bought them. Here is picture of new tire and wheel beside my old tire wheel(245x60x14) Since I went a size smaller I should have no clearance issues and will also be able to see if enough extra clearance for the 29x15.50


Picture of new tire under car


Also got my new axle housing and 31 spline axles.Here is new housing compared to old. new is 10" narrower


Hopefully get the trunk floor all welded up this weekend and move foward to the floors. The floors should go pretty quick since I already have all the templetes made. All I have to do is take the templetes from drivers side and flip them for pass side floor. I would like to have the floor done by tax day. and hopefully off the rotisserie by end of April. But who knows lol
 

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Great work, as always. Love this build.

I am curious about something Lou. I noticed that you seam sealed the bare metal before primering-like Ford did. It was my understanding that doing it this way promotes rust (in the future) when moisture finds its way in there and can't get out. I have dug out seam sealer from original cars and have seen the damage myself. For this reason, I always epoxy primer first, then seam seal. I then apply a second coating of primer (usually a surfacer or build) before paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Great work, as always. Love this build.

I am curious about something Lou. I noticed that you seam sealed the bare metal before primering-like Ford did. It was my understanding that doing it this way promotes rust (in the future) when moisture finds its way in there and can't get out. I have dug out seam sealer from original cars and have seen the damage myself. For this reason, I always epoxy primer first, then seam seal. I then apply a second coating of primer (usually a surfacer or build) before paint.
Thanks Dennis.

I didn't use the seam sealer yet, (and may not) Not a big fan of it. And you are correct about spraying epoxy first. When I do use seam sealer I do spray the epoxy first then put seam sealer over top the epoxy and then after cured spray epoxy over it.

I used 3m Panel Bonding Adhesive to seal all my floor seams.
3M Panel Bonding Adhesive 08115

I sealed all floor seams, top and bottom with it. This is the stuff used to glue on body panels. Thats the black stuff you see in picture.

I like it alot better than seam sealer. flows nicer, dries hard, sandable, can't scrape or dig this stuff out. Never seen it crack or shrink. I figured that it is used to glue panels together that it would work better than the seam sealer. The only cons are it is pricey and you need special applicator/gun to apply

Lou
 

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Great idea Lou--I'll have to try that in the future.

I've never been found of most seam sealers either and have had some poor results-even the 3M stuff. I despise their old gray brush-on sealer too. I found that the stuff in the tube from CJ Pony parts works well, and I recently tried some Chinese import stuff and had good results (at least so far.)
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Update on Comet. Been working on trunk floor and tank. The new tank fits really well in the opening but I don't like how it looks from the underneath.


I am trying to keep the modifacations low-key, keep it stockish looking. I took the old gas tank, cut off the top and cut out about 5" out of center.


Had to cut it a little weird where the original sending unit went but will make a filler piece. tacked the 2 outer pieces together and fitted into trunk floor.


Next I set new tank into the sectioned old tank. Wanted to make sure It would sit low enough so I could still use the stock fuel fill/cap. Seems to be ok.


Since it all fit pretty much how I want it to, I welded in the trunk floor pieces, Also made filler piece for tank bottom, tack welded it together, and decided to turn the tank bottom around so the front is now the rear.


Here is what it looks like from underneath the car. I turned the tank bottom around so the drain is showing. Figuring this will help make it look stockish when seen. I still need to finish the tank bottom, but will do this later off the car. It will bolt in to place just like it did originally. I want to get the new 45 degree filler and fill hose all fitted before I finish tank bottom. If for some reason it all don't fit right I might have to modify the tank bottom to lower it.


Now that trunk floor is done I moved on to the pass side floors. I have all the templates I made for the drivers side and all I had to do was flip them for pass side.


After test fitting the templates just to make sure they fit right, I cut out and made the floor pieces. This definitly went quicker the second time around :)


Placed the panels in car and marked what needed cut out.


After the old was cut out I trimmed and fitted the new pieces into place, here is what they look like in car, All I got to do is weld them in.


from underneath


After welding them in and replacing pass front floor I will seal all the seams and finally be able to put some primer on bottom. yipee lol
After getting it in epoxy there are a few areas I will smooth out with filler to make smooth.

I originally planned to paint the underneath same as car, black, base/clear. now I am not sure, and been thinking of doing underneath in a satin black like the epoxy to help it look stockish, plus would be cheaper and a lot less work. Would also be easier to touch up. I know I will have to modify a few thing as I put car together. But pretty happy with how it has turned out so far.
 

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Looking great Lou. I think that you're doing an excellent job in making your modifications look "factory stock."

Looking to the future--What's your plans for the engine compartment? Modify the shock towers? Stock or aftermarket suspension?
 
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