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1969 Galaxie XL - 390 FE
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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
Todays progress although small. Got the undserside of the hood stripped (mostly), and have decided on a underhood beauty panel. I did not want polished stainless since most of the underhood components are brushed aluminum. Will be doing 5052 - .032 brushed aluminum.
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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
Looking for ideas on bonding my 5052 aluminum under the hood. The metal is only .032" and panel bond is $150 for the adhesive and applicator. Liquid nails contractor adhesive?
 

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Well for me personally I’d use some nice fasteners.
maybe some stainless button head hex bolts.
If you use an adhesive of some type I think you should do a test piece to be sure it stands up to under hood heat.
 

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I don't think I'd want to count on the silicone to keep that panel stuck in place over the long haul. The panel bonding stuff seems like the ideal product if you don't want exposed fasteners. The other option is something you could weld. What about protecting brushed steel with clear coat? Some people do whole cars in that finish.
 

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.

I don't have experience using any but there are structural adhesives out there to bond metals together. I wouldn't trust silicon to hold up to the heat and vibration. It seals great but does not make a structural bond.
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
Something I just thought of.......This will be metal to paint since it will be attached after the underside is painted. Not sure how much of a difference that makes, but it just came to mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
Well.......right, wrong or indifferent, I have decided to lay this underhood insulation with additional adhesive, then epoxy the aluminum sheet around the edges and use the same adhesive previously mentioned to bond the insulation to the aluminum sheet. Hell.....for no more miles than this car will see, good luck to the next guy trying to get it off. 😆
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
Yea! Now it's a party!

Just keep reminding yourself that if you were paying to have someone do it for you it would literally be 10x that.
Thanks Touring919!!! Wonder what this job would really cost if I had it done??

So many things I keep telling myself to remember.....
  • Your not gonna get it covered in 1 coat!!! It is 13 rounds from sealer to clear.
  • Stay consitent, the next coat will catch it!!
  • Make this your best paint job as it is likely your last!!!
  • HAVE FUN, and don't take it so serious. I mean I have to be serious, but this is not life or death.
  • Learn from the speed shapes, and jambs. Thats those are the practice sessions before the big show.
  • Blow out the shop completely the night before.
  • Wax and degrease first thing in the AM on paint day.
  • Sprayway cleaner, and tack GOOD just before sealer.
  • Tack before base, in between coats of base, and before clear.
  • Follow the flash times exactly!!! I have an Apple watch to help achieve this.
  • Watch your hose for gods sake!!! Gonna have my son chase my hose.
I am open to all the reminders folks want to share. Will make for good study material the night before ;)
 

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Sounds like you got it covered. Most pro shops are at least 50/hr. And it goes way up from there very quickly.

Make sure you have something to mix with. Maybe one tool per color if you are going overboard. And make sure you have all the mixing cups you will need before you start!
 

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Thanks Touring919!!! Wonder what this job would really cost if I had it done??

So many things I keep telling myself to remember.....
  • Your not gonna get it covered in 1 coat!!! It is 13 rounds from sealer to clear.
  • Stay consitent, the next coat will catch it!!
  • Make this your best paint job as it is likely your last!!!
  • HAVE FUN, and don't take it so serious. I mean I have to be serious, but this is not life or death.
  • Learn from the speed shapes, and jambs. Thats those are the practice sessions before the big show.
  • Blow out the shop completely the night before.
  • Wax and degrease first thing in the AM on paint day.
  • Sprayway cleaner, and tack GOOD just before sealer.
  • Tack before base, in between coats of base, and before clear.
  • Follow the flash times exactly!!! I have an Apple watch to help achieve this.
  • Watch your hose for gods sake!!! Gonna have my son chase my hose.
I am open to all the reminders folks want to share. Will make for good study material the night before ;)
You probably already have this covered, but make sure you have lots of lighting from all angles in your shop or wherever you are going to shoot paint. I think a light affixed to the gun works great to help see better, especially when shooting clear.

Awesome choice in color and materials, can't wait to see the final product!
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
Time for a quick update and some information that may help somebody........

Ya have to take the small wins when ya can. For me it was getting the underside of the hood, front filler panel and custom windsheild wiper motor plate stripped and in high build. I also got the left quarter extension almost finished and in 320, ready for 400 and sealer. I have been using Dura Coat dry guide coate between each paper change. I have been using a mix of sandpaper throughout the project. This stuff is okay, but not the best. Used it for my DA and palm sander in the early stages 80-180. For blocking I am using Dura Blocks and this hook and loop paper which is AWESOME!

A few pics.

The hood before.
Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Hood Automotive design Bumper

Hood Motor vehicle Bicycle part Bumper Automotive exterior



After.
White Automotive lighting Hood Automotive tire Automotive design


The left quarter extension in 320. Somehow this seems like a big accomplishment since it it the first peice almost ready for sealer. Any bare metal will get covered in the HOK KD3000 sealer.
Yellow Automotive design Rectangle Gas Engineering

Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design Automotive exterior Bumper
 
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