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1969 Galaxie XL - 390 FE
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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
This is how we have to do it in PNW. Heat the shop up to 80 with the Dyna-Glo master blaster and then turn it off, shoot the high build primer and fire it back up to get the primer to kick.
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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
Finally gave up the ghost and bought a TCP primer gun with a 2.5 tip for shooting the high build primer. Previously I had been using the HF purple gun and drilling out the nozzle as I had seen on "the tube". Since my son is a manager at HF I was getting the purple guns for around $8. This made them a cheap throw away, but my results were mixed from gun to gun. Sometime the Evercoat high build would lay down like glass, other times like stucco. I can say with the new gun, there is not much difference. I though the nozzle size and proper needle would lay it down like water, but at 25- 40 psi it was still rougher than I have gotten from the purple gun.

I guess if you want to spray body filler you should not expect glass. Although I have layed down some passes with the HF that were super smooth, at the end of the day it equals more sanding either way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
Wanted to post a few updates since my last high build session on the top of the hood. I was really disappointed with the new gun and needle (2.5) combo that I though.... surely there must be something I can do. As usual I changed so many variables at one time, I cannot definitively say what made this round better. BUT it is indeed better.

Some of the changes I made:
  • Bumped the air pressure at the wall from 90 to 120 psi. no change at the gun (40 psi.)
  • Heated the high build in front of the Dyna-Glo for about 10-15 minutes
  • Over catalyzed a bit, not much but some
  • I also stirred it a bit more which resulted in the bubbles I am used to seeing
What I can say is the results were much better IMO.
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Next up, dry guide coat and blocking to 120. It will get 2 more coats when I do the entire car.

I am hoping there is light at the end of the tunnel with sanding. :p
 

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Is that heater kerosene, or propane heater? I would be worried about combustion particulates in the air contaminating the surfaces. Are you able to get the wax and grease remover wipe down and tack it off before it gets too cold to spray? I know those heaters can ruin flooring and wall tile installations, so I hope you don't have any issues with the base work under that pricey finish you have planned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
It is a propane heater. Before I am ready to shoot, I turn it off, wax and degrease, blow it off and mix my paint. Once I am done shooting, I turn the heater back on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
A quick update. Been working selectivly since the weather has been crap (40ish) but now that we are seeing 50-60 it makes going out to the shop with the door open pretty nice.

Decided to buy a Harbor Freight pneumatic paint shaker to get the paint components all blended together to avoid any color mismatch. The HOK Orion Silver came in gallons (2) and the Kandy came in quarts (8), and I wanted to ensure I was working from standard color accros the different containers. Paint shaker worked great for the $100 although the silver base did have some minimal "chunks" at the bottom of the first gallon I shook. I just transfered them into the second gallon and shook that one a bit longer. Once they were all shaken I paddle mixed them in some food grade 5 gal. buckets that I cleaned with wax and degreaser along with the paddle mixers. The back into the original containers making sure the lids were good and closed.
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Tomorrow is the big day where I am going to paint the speed shapes since it will be 68 degrees. I bought a quart of fast reducer (RU310) for the spray outs. 2 coats of KD3000 Sealer, 2 coats of silver base. One will be cleared with just silver for fun, the others will be 3, 4, 5 and 6 coats of candy before 2 coats of UC01 clear.
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Also been blocking the underside of the hood. The good news is that it is only the outer portion of the hood since the underside will have a 1 piece 5052 brushed aluminum beauty panel attached with 3M panel bond.
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Discussion Starter · #131 · (Edited)
Man it was a great day. It so nice to have some motivation to keep this project moving forward.

It was 68 degrees here today, so it was time to get the sprayouts done.

Scuffed the shapes with a maroon scotchbrite, wax and degreaser, followed by Sprayway glass cleaner.

Started with 2 wet coats of KD3000 mixed as a sealer. 25 min. flash time, tacking between coats.
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Then 3 coats of Orion Silvermax S2-BC02, 20 min. flash, no tacking between coats.
1st coat, 2nd coat, then 3rd.
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Then the HOK Brandywine Kandy KBC01 15 min. flash no tack. Coats 1, 2, 3, 4
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I'm leaning towards 5 in the sun for some reason, but they both look great. This will look gorgeous on a a full-size car!

I have worked with that same type of heater in that same manner, so I feel your pain trying to work around crappy weather (I'm in the NE, so pretty similar to what you get).
 
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