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So, I decided to take out my 1966 Cruise-O-Matic transmission and see what I could do for it as far as a re-build! I was going to go with an AOD, but then I wanted to go with a 4R70W. I built a 4R70W and then I had to relocate due to work and the new transmission has sat. Now since I am situated, I have been looking and I am somewhat worried about clearance with the transmission adapter that you have to use to put a 4R70W behind an FE. My car has factory A/C so I don't have as much room on my firewall. And, I would rather spend the 2k of parts that it would take for overdrive on other car parts!!

My Cruise-O-Matic has worked but it has not been 100% since I got my car. The first signs of trouble were the leaks. It leaked everywhere! I replaced all the seals on it and that helped some but not 100%. Secondly, if you remember a while back, the transmission overheated when I was in a christmas parade and spit out most of the fluid. Third issue, the transmission will not immediately go into forward or reverse when the car is started. After teh car warms up it is ok but still kind of iffy. Last issue and something I have noticed as I drive the car more is someties it will hesitate to shift from second to third gear.

My cruise-o-matic is a small case, casting number C5AP 7006 A 21. Verified with tape measure of 9 7/8" body length. I was able to find rebuild parts here.
Cast Iron Small & Med. Case Transmission Parts Ford Transmission Parts RWD

The parts I ordered are:
106006B Master kit, CI SMALL case 1951-67
106034B Bushing Small / Med case rear pump
106064 Bushing CI Small / Med case, case
106034 Bushing Small / Med case pump
A106010B Filter, CI Small case 1950-67 BW Model 8 1958-66
A44839 Transmission MAGNET, Square

I am not sure where I am going to get a torque coverter from. I also am looking for a place to send the bands in for a R&R(reline & return).

I hope to end this re-build with a reliable transmission and no leaks. I am debating ordering a new external transmission cooler to use instead of using the one that's on my radiator.

Let the pictures begin! I took lots of pictures to share and to help put this thing back together.

I'm not gonna go into detail on removing the transmission, but it was a PITA with the long tube headers and exhaust.






Filter with metal strap over it.




Metal strap removed from filter.


Filter removed




Here is what the pan looked like.


Case measurement of 9 7/8".






















Pressur regulator


Releasing the tension off the springs.












Three bolts holding on the control valve body.




Shift selector and kickdown rod.




Front servo. In this picture, I already removed the band adjusting screw.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Front servo removed.


After the front servo was removed, I lifted the valve body straight out.












Rear servo


There are two bolts ont eh rear servo. The bolt closer to teh center of the transmission is longer and has a nipple on teh end of it to help secure the internal parts.








Front pump has four bolts holding it on.


Once I removed the four bolts I used a 1/4" socket extension adn a hammer to break the xxyear old seal on the pump.




Here is what the back of the front pump looks like.


Looking down the front of the transmission after the front pump was removed.


Rubber seal on the front pump


Vacuum modulator. I tested this out with my vacuum pump and it appears to be good. Holds 20" of vacuum then slowly bleeds down.






Here is teh breakdown of the Pressure Regulator. Got everything cleaned uo real good and lubed with that green transmission assembly lube.










Control Valve Body. There are alot of different valves and springs on this piece!








































 

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Snap ring on the tailshaft holding the distributor in place.




The distributor and three tubes slide out easily.




There is another snap ring holding the governor on. There are four metal rings on teh tailshaft that have to be removed before the governor can come off. I removed them by hand.




Governor off.


The rear pump suction tool is easy to remove.


The rear pump discharge tube was a whole diferent story. I didn't have the special Ford tool that they reference in teh service manual so I used some needle nose pliers and adjustable pliers.


Once those two tubes are out, the guts of the transmission will be able to slide out.








This little key is what attaches the rear pump to the transmission rotating assembly.






All cleaned up.


Removing the band.




Here is a closeup of my reverse band. I'm pretty sure this is why the transmission would not go into reverse on command everytime. It was worn down and the little bit of band material left was as slick as a piece of glass.


Friction clutch. This one still has grooves on it but not very much. I'm not sure not thick they are supposed to be. I will compare to my new ones when they get here.




This steel clutch plate was not smooth at all. It had the grooves from the friction disc worn into it.


That's all I have for now. I'll post more when I get there. Waiting on new parts to come in now.
 

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Great pics and info - you're not afraid to take on anything on that car are you? :smile2:

I'm hoping to try to rebuild an extra C4 I have for our '66 so seeing you take on an auto is good to see and try to understand.

Congrats and good luck!

Stephen

Edit: We actually would like to do a 4R70W as well but do not have one in hand. I wanted to try a home brew Arduino controller on it based on the PIC controller code found online. Did you ever post a rebuild thread on the 4R?
 

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Great pics and info - you're not afraid to take on anything on that car are you? :smile2:

I'm hoping to try to rebuild an extra C4 I have for our '66 so seeing you take on an auto is good to see and try to understand.

Congrats and good luck!

Stephen

Edit: We actually would like to do a 4R70W as well but do not have one in hand. I wanted to try a home brew Arduino controller on it based on the PIC controller code found online. Did you ever post a rebuild thread on the 4R?
Thanks. The only thing i'm hesitant to do is paint/bodywork.

This transmission is more difficult to me than the 4R was.
Here is my build thread for the 4R. It is wrapped in plastic wrap for now.
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/showthread.php?t=593578
 

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Hi fried_daddy,

You are indeed fearless in tackling all you do. I admire that! Thank you for sharing the pics and your adventures in rebuilding the FX. I have two of these "gems" I'm not using and they probably suffered the same fate as yours, old seals and frictions. I changed the 40 year old crude oil in one that was working and the fresh oil killed it. Wouldn't move after that. Just one of those things you have to laugh. But I was wondering how difficult and expensive it would be to rebuild one. I look forward to the rest of your postings of progress.

Cheers.
 

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cool thread- someday ours is gonna need it...pump getting weak, wont engage after sitting a while, I rock shifter between drive/reverse a few times
to get pump primed up and she shifts fine- if not it wont move without slipping- surefire way to roast a auto in seconds...

Edit: We actually would like to do a 4R70W as well but do not have one in hand. I wanted to try a home brew Arduino controller on it based on the PIC controller code found online. ..
ah, another Arduino fan :)
 

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cool thread- someday ours is gonna need it...pump getting weak, wont engage after sitting a while, I rock shifter between drive/reverse a few times
to get pump primed up and she shifts fine- if not it wont move without slipping- surefire way to roast a auto in seconds...


ah, another Arduino fan
YES! I've been using Arduinos for hobby robot and home automation stuff for a long time but think it's overdue to bring one (or more) into a car project.

Sorry - Didn't mean to hijack your thread fried_daddy...

Stephen
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi fried_daddy,

You are indeed fearless in tackling all you do. I admire that! Thank you for sharing the pics and your adventures in rebuilding the FX. I have two of these "gems" I'm not using and they probably suffered the same fate as yours, old seals and frictions. I changed the 40 year old crude oil in one that was working and the fresh oil killed it. Wouldn't move after that. Just one of those things you have to laugh. But I was wondering how difficult and expensive it would be to rebuild one. I look forward to the rest of your postings of progress.

Cheers.
Yes. No fear!! So far I think I have found all the parts I need. Should have everything necessary for reassembly within the next week. If it's not so messy I might try to use my digital camera and get some high quality pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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YES! I've been using Arduinos for hobby robot and home automation stuff for a long time but think it's overdue to bring one (or more) into a car project.

Sorry - Didn't mean to hijack your thread fried_daddy...

Stephen
No problem. I will have to look into these Arduinos things to see what all they are capable of. They look like a mini PLC. Never heard of them before.
 

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Here are some pictures of my two bands. I made sure to get good pics before I sent them off. I sent them off to Transmission Bands from Alabama Bands, Inc. to get rebuilt. What a coincidence that the place I had to send my parts to is in the state I just moved away from. Makco transmission did not have any bands in stock and they highly recommended for me to send my bands to Alabama for a rebuild. I am getting them lined with kevlar grade material. The price to reline one band was almost the same price as shipping! They said after they receive the bands it usually takes 1-2 days to process then they will send them back to me.

Rear band. As you can see from the pictures the rear band is worn greatly! It was smooth as glass.






The front band still had grooves left in it but I wanted to get it done in kevlar material also.






I also ordered my torque converter today. I ordered it from Welcome to Fatsco Transmission Parts Worldwide distributor of Transmission Parts transmission parts. They had several of them in stock. I am going to hold on to mines until the new one gets here to make sure they are an exact match then I will send it back for the core charge.
 

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I never knew bands were cast...interesting.

Yeah. That appears to be how they were made. It also looks like the same base material they use in AOD bands.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
only ones Ive ever had apart completely were chevys, they were steel with welded hooks...
How was the Chevy transmission to take apart and re-assemble? Pretty straight forward?
 

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How was the Chevy transmission to take apart and re-assemble? Pretty straight forward?
well, back in highschool had my elcaminos th350 apart several times before making it work(no tools/no money/no clue) but eventually got it- not having snap ring pliers made it tough :)

my 85 camaro's 700r4 I got 'into' 4 different times for stupid stuff- stripped plastic governor, three different times for broken springs- one accumulator spring actually broke and chewed a hole clear thru the separator plate...5th time it had to come apart, forward sprag busted, was really easy- and cheap. got soft parts and a used 87-up 29 element sprag for 85 bucks, took 2 evenings with my 6 yr old helper...I got a pic somewhere of him wearing a atf dripped workshirt grinning ear-to-ear with a missing teeth smile, stacking clutches back into the baskets:)

only hard part on the 700r4 was the goofy anti-rattle clip for the forward drum, was a PITA to get back in... had the car 2 more yrs before giving it away, that was in 2005, AFAIK the things still running fine- but havent seen it in over a year. really sucked, I loved that car, a buddies daughter really liked it, she was near driving age, deal with the wife to get the mustang was 2 cars had to go...knew his daughter would take care of it, decided she'd give it a good home, knew it was a safe/reliable car... buddies goofy son wrecked his POS jeep, and buddy gave him his sisters camaro- and he tore the hell out of it in the months before she got her license, really made me sick(his daughter too as it was a really sharp car before her brother beat it up). people... last I saw it, the polished centerlines were flat black, rear bumper/both quarters bent up, dents in fender/hood... it was really a nice car :( just remembering still kinda pisses me off. got me thinking about it- heres a pic the day before we gave it to them-
 

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Thanks, Fried, lots of good info there. You are making a place in history for yourself. Show starts off a little slow buts gets better as the plot thickens.
 
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