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Discussion Starter #1
So, I got my first classic it's a '64 square body four door base model falcon. I'm really excited cause this is my first restoration and a huuuge learning experience. I'm trying to collect all my parts and do all my research kinda get everything organized before I dive into the project. I took out the straight 6 and tranny, cleaned everything up and picked up my 5.0 302 from a 1987 lincoln, and an 8.8 rear end. I want to bore the engine out and have it all cleaned up before putting it in. Any suggestions on basically where I should begin? I'm new to restorations, please don't rip me apart haha, I'm just wondering if it makes any differnece in what order to do everything, for instance I'm thinking I wana get my brakes and suspension etc. finished before I begin any motor work. Any suggestions or advice of any sort is completely welcome, I'm all ears. Thanks!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Maybe I can get some help with some more specific questions.. The problems I've been running into so far have been what kind of motor mounts I should use since I'm putting in the 302. There are two kinds, the two piece and three piece. I've heard to use the three piece over the two because with the two piece motor mounts you have to twist and bend to make them fit.. Second problem is I don't want to use the original master cylinder because it's a single chamber, I would like to use a dual cylinder because it seems safer but I'm trying to avoid using power brakes because I don't think there's enough room for the brake booster.. Third question.. Should I use the cross member? I guess some people don't but I'm not quite sure where to go with that..
 

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So lets start with the mounts. Both style mounts will work and bolt right in. If you use the early 64/65 Comet, falcon, Mustang mounts You need to drill a hole through the mount so the rubber can not break. If i remember I used a 5/16 grade 5 bolt with a lock nut on my 65 Sprint. These mounts work great once this mod is done. The newer style is found on the 66-70 mustangs and will also work with no issues. On the master cylinder the Raybestos 36440 is the best one to use for a disc/drum setup. I would contact either Dan at CHOCKOSTANG.COM or CSRP for a front Disc swap or any info on your front drum master. I like the Kelsey Hayes Factory style brakes from the 65-67 mustangs but you need v-8 drum or disc spindles from a 64-65 Falcon/comet or 65-66 Mustang. No need for a power booster the Manual brakes work great. I would use the lower crossmember it can only help.
 

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Nice car :)

If you're seeking opinions on restoration beginnings you need to ask yourself HOW DEEP are you going to restore this car?

My own [personal guess from my experience here on this board is that you're going to fix it to to Stop and GO, and get a great paint job and interior, am I correct?

If that's all you're doing, then starting with the brakes is a fine place to begin.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nice car :)

If you're seeking opinions on restoration beginnings you need to ask yourself HOW DEEP are you going to restore this car?

My own [personal guess from my experience here on this board is that you're going to fix it to to Stop and GO, and get a great paint job and interior, am I correct?

If that's all you're doing, then starting with the brakes is a fine place to begin.
Thank you! And actually to be honest the body [aside from from rust] and interior [again, aside from rust] are the least of my concerns and the very very last thing I wana do. I really want this thing running better than the first day its rubber touched pavement. That's why I got my bigger motor, I'm getting that completely serviced at some point, and my bigger rear end. The reason I ask what order in which to do things is because my boyfriend began his restoration on a '61 comet long before I got my Falcon, he got most of his his engine work done first but can't install the motor yet because of a few missing parts [and finances :p]. So, so far he's hit kind of a dead end for the time being and his motor is sitting [completely serviced and bored out] in a garage where he has to worry about how it's wrapped up because of moisture getting in and eventually seizing it... I don't want to have to worry or deal with that so I'm figuring maybe it'd be smarter to deal with motor work toward the end?
 

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OK then, you're simply doing a fix up and drive job, that's going to be easy as pie :) :)

Get your Suspension clobbered first, then your brakes. Don't let these disc brake idiots push you into some perverted kind of conversion for your car so you can stop, etc... etc...

These cars have been stopping fine for 50 years without that junk, even with HI-PO engines etc.., and unless you're going to road race you will never need them.

Simply get your new rear end situated (a 70's Granada and Maverick 8" rear will fit nicely and hold up to ANYTHING that you can throw at it..)

Now update your front spindles to 5 lug, You can go disc or drum, (Drum is cheaper) and there are more of them available to gather up.

Now get your brakes taken care of. Simple :)

Then make a decision from there. To go you must be able to stop, after the brakes you can go any direction you want. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I have an 8.8 out of a '62 Fairlane 500 with 3.25 gear ratio and it's 5 lug. One thing I need out figure out is if I have to use two different size brake lines with the Raybestos 36440 and my rear end. For instance, are the brake lines that I'm going to connect to the master cylinder, going to fit with my rear end? And what should I do for steering? I'm not going to use power steering but I'd like to replace the gear box but I can't seem to find it. Any suggestions on that?
 

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I have an 8.8 out of a '62 Fairlane 500 with 3.25 gear ratio and it's 5 lug. One thing I need out figure out is if I have to use two different size brake lines with the Raybestos 36440 and my rear end. For instance, are the brake lines that I'm going to connect to the master cylinder, going to fit with my rear end? And what should I do for steering? I'm not going to use power steering but I'd like to replace the gear box but I can't seem to find it. Any suggestions on that?
First are you sure it is the 8.8" and not the 8" rearend? The 36440 Master is a disc/drum master if you are staying with front drums there may be a better choice to use. I am one of those idiots that likes to do the front disc conversion. not sure why someone would consider going to the Kelsey Hayes front brakes as being a perverted conversion as it is a direct swap with v-8 front drum spindles. I did this swap on my 65 Sprint. You do not need any odd ball conversion brake lines as you can get adapters that go on the master cylinder to fit your brake lines. I would call Dan at CHOCKOSTANG he is a wealth of info and very entertaining to talk with and can answer all your brake needs. As far as your steering Dan can also rebuild your steering box and he has a great rep for quality work and fast turn around.
 

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Haha, yes it is the 8, I don't know why I thought 8.8, I couldn't remember exactly. And Cmefly, where do I find this chockostang? Is it a website? I tried typing it in but nothing comes up.. my web browser thinks I'm searching german chocolate hahah... And how pricey is he?
 

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Haha, yes it is the 8, I don't know why I thought 8.8, I couldn't remember exactly. And Cmefly, where do I find this chockostang? Is it a website? I tried typing it in but nothing comes up.. my web browser thinks I'm searching german chocolate hahah... And how pricey is he?
CHOCKOSTANGCLASSICMUSTANG.COM ,You can also find Dan on Ebay. He is very reasonable on his prices, you should call him he loves to talk about the old cars. 217-882-2083 is his number
 
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