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Discussion Starter #1
I've done 2 9 inch rear ends and 1 8 inch. I guess I've been dodging this particular bullet. One of em popped right out and the other is a stuck muther.

I read the 4 page long post on here about stuck axles so I have a few things I can try tomorrow. I did actually start contemplating chaining the thing to a tree and hooking it up to the trailer hitch on my truck to pull on it but I thought that idea was a bit craaaaazzzyyyyyy.
 

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Bummer. I had my first one this year too but I knew the cause. Shortened rearend, shortened axles, and not enough freeplay between the axle splines and the end of the carrier. Never needed a puller in my life as the loose rim/tire combo with loose lug nuts never failed me in the past

Since 1 axle came out, I simply ran a piece of 1" or so black iron pipe through that end until it hit the other side's axle end. A couple of medium taps with a 1 lb hammer brought relief for me.
 

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Have you tried putting the drum on backwards,starting the lugnuts 3-4 turns,and then using the drum as a slide hammer?
 

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Wow you guys are lucky.. Maybe it is because I live in the rust belt but almost every one I have done has had at least one side stuck..I have used the brake drum as a slide hammer successfully once or twice but I usually have to break out my actual slide hammer to get em out.
 

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Since 1 axle came out, I simply ran a piece of 1" or so black iron pipe through that end until it hit the other side's axle end. A couple of medium taps with a 1 lb hammer brought relief for me.
+1 and is my preferred method when I can. :tup: However, many differentials have a pinion shaft that runs between the two axle ends that the spider gears run on. Look real well with a flashlight to see if it's a shiny cross-shaft or the dimpled flat end of an axle in there before swinging away.

David
 

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This has worked for me a few times , never failed me yet. Get a heavy log chain and remove lug nut. Slip chain over the stud and place lug nut back on. Give the chain a big whip like you would a real whip. The force should snatch the axle right off. If no ya no worse off but works for me so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I got it. I chained the rear end to 2 oak trees with a steel cable ratchet on the axle side. Once it was seriously tight I wacked the hub with a sledge hammer. It popped right out and thankfully, I'm still alive, LOL. I did tear a chunk out of my right thumbnail off but that is about par for me. The outside bearing race on the right side was glued with copper coat. I have to wonder if that was done for a particular reason.

I thought about tapping it out with a rod from the free side but it has a cross shaft in there. My rod is too big.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
That seemed mighty past tense too. Maybe it shrunk.

The gears in the 9 inch I bought are in good shape, no pitting, bearings look good, lash is good, good margin left on the gears as far as wear goes too, no slop anywhere. This should last me for years considering how few miles I put on my truck. Going from 2.75 to 3.25 gear should be significant. My truck wants to fall over going up hills because its barely above idle at 65. I tweaked this engine up so it needs a bit more rpm's to make any power.

I guess I am going to buy an inch pounds torque wrench this time. I've borrowed these in the past when I needed one but everybody is getting real stingy with their tools these days.

If I do this right I should not need a new crush washer I think. I have read the procedure for putting an initial torque on the thing and checking the inch pounds for pre-load. It said start at 200, check it, if it needs more go up 5 pounds at a time and re-check. I'm looking for 8 to 14 inch pounds on my used bearings? I also plan to index mark the nut so I will know when I get back to where I took it off.

I can remove the nut with a cheater bar but torquing it down is another deal. I have been contemplating how I am going to yank 200 foot pounds on that nut with no help and no lift. I have decided that my small jack with a block under my torque wrench should work for putting it on.

I plan to knock the old one off before I pull it, swap the new chunk in to the truck, knock the new, wrong yoke off once its in the rear end and then install the old one back in.

If anybody see's something wrong with all these please do let me know.

I understand that the inch pounds is without the axles installed. I will have to temporary install them to torque the thing I guess and then pull them to check the pre-load. PITA.
 

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reversed drum with lug nuts and using that like a slide hammer usually works for me.


I've heard "old timers" talk about using a 5-7 foot piece of heavy chain and using lugs to fasten that to the axle. The general idea I was told was to use a motion like cracking a whip. supposedly that can knock them loose.

I've never tried it myself, but I've head it works.
 

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I had this problem some time ago.... I tried everything, I ended up getting a slide hammer from Summit, was $80 with a dozen fittings.
I wrench on stuff to often.... It costs a little dough, but I think back about all the things I've broken trying to pull them out incorrectly.
Anyway, Axle came out after two taps.

One of my favorite tools, one of those things that you wonder why you went so long without buying one.
 

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I had this problem some time ago.... I tried everything, I ended up getting a slide hammer from Summit, was $80 with a dozen fittings.
I wrench on stuff to often.... It costs a little dough, but I think back about all the things I've broken trying to pull them out incorrectly.
Anyway, Axle came out after two taps.

One of my favorite tools, one of those things that you wonder why you went so long without buying one.
+1........I don't use mine all that often but it sure is handy when you need it...Mine has an attachment that has a two or three arm puller as well..Works great on removing those pesky oil seals inside the axle tubes..It can also be used for removing those stubborn pinion yokes as I found out this summer. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That's a good point. One or both of my pinion yokes may be stuck too.

I think I'm going to set up a 1/4 inch x 2 inch steel bar and drill holes in it. I keep a stock of flat bar and, angle iron and some round pipe around for whatever may need to be plated, reinforced, welded on or built. I built a lawn mower trailer with some I had and scavenged the axle and rear wheels off an old mower. It works great.

I can bolt the bar to the pinion yoke to hold it for taking the nuts off and torquing them back down. I've also seen a huge monkey wrench used to hold the pinion yoke to work on the nut but I don't have a huge monkey wrench.
 
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