Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I joined here a while ago, but finally got around to being active in the site. I have a 1965 Galaxie 500 XL, with a 390 2v. I ran the numbers on it, and it said that it is supposed to have a 4v, so I might have to put the 390 4bbl 4v, that my dad has.

Right now I do not know why but the car will not turn over, I know the battery has charge because the top still will go up and down.

I've had the car since the beginning of January, and have done some work to it since, probably could of had the car going by now, but I'm a slacker, and have to go to school during the week.

This is how I got it








Then I tore out the interior


A piece that I want to replace, where can I get a new one? Or a good used one?

The motor I want to put in it 390 4bbl 4v

Then I went out and cleaned it off, and took some better pics of it

Then took the chrome off that runs along the bottom of the car, and found this. So now I have to replace this now too, on both sides.


Me standing in front of it, yes I'm young, I'm 16.


Then I put some rims on that my dad had laying around, I want to get smaller tires for the back yet.








I've sanded it a bunch since the last updated pics, and hopefully will be working on it in a little bit.

One last thing, does anyone know where I could get a new one of these? Or tell me what it's called? I need a new black one, because I'm putting black interior in the car.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,301 Posts
That is one special boat you got there! XLs are special enough, but a convertable to boot! Wow. You joined at a good time when it seems 65/66 Gals are getting a lot of the spotlight on here. Look around and you will see a good deal of threads on them, particularly the 65/66 Galaxie suspension upgrade thread ggrahn and I worked so hard on. http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/galaxie-pages/483209-65-66-gal-suspension-upgrades.html

After you read the entire thread (take notes) you will see we opened up alot of suspension upgrade options for the 65/66 that were not known before.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,517 Posts
Welcome to the forum and you came with pics! That's always a plus. You have a great base to build on.

When you say it doesn't turn over do you mean it won't start with the key or the engine won't turn at all even by hand? If it's the key won't start it have you checked if it starts by shorting across at the starter solenoid?

The starter maybe be bad or have a loose or dirty connection. Check that all the cables are really clean including where the neg cable grounds to the block or where ever it grounds to on a '65. Tap on the solenoid with a wrench or something and see if it might be just "stuck" also if all the cleaning doesn't help any. Shorting across should tell you which end to look at.

That peice you are looking for, is that hard plastic? I'm not familiar with '65s at all. But if it is plastic you could opt to paint it as I don't think that's a repop part yet. Unless you can find one in black that someone is selling one ebay or something.

Deb
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the comments!! The piece that I'm looking for is plastic, but it is broken in a couple of spots, which you can kinda see in the pic with it on the car.

I know what it's like for new people to come to forums, everyone wants to see pics! so I posted pics.

As for it starting, I don't know what could be wrong, anything that you mentioned could be it. The only thing I do know, is that it just won't turn over from the key, the motor still turns over by hand.

And, as for today, I sanded on it a bunch, and it has not-so-much-grey fender anymore :D I'll post some new pics later tonight, once I get back from the girlfriend's house.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,517 Posts
Clean all the connections and give it a shot. I don't know about the '65 but my '64 is real picky about the battery cable connection. The solenoid will click like crazy if it's not getting a good connection.

Another possibility is the neutral safety switch. You can try starting it in neutral and see what happens.

The solenoid by passes that feature also. So you could still end up back at that point. lol

Since a lot of that plastic peice is hidden maybe you could do a JC and patch it in the areas hidden and fill in the cracks on the parts that can be seen and paint it?

Plastic peices get broke so easy, with age even more so. If you can't find another piece it seems like there is some plastic windlace that you could put in it's place.

Ahhh, 2 gals. LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,376 Posts
Hello, I joined here a while ago, but finally got around to being active in the site. I have a 1965 Galaxie 500 XL, with a 390 2v. I ran the numbers on it, and it said that it is supposed to have a 4v, so I might have to put the 390 4bbl 4v, that my dad has.
Hey 65GXL,
Nice car! What numbers did you run in order to ascertain that it is supposed to have a 4bbl? (BTW, 4bbl (four barrel) and 4v (four venturi) mean the same thing). And what is the make of the 4bbl that your father has? Autolite or Holley or ??? If it is an Autolite 4100 you're indeed lucky! Just ask Deb. :)

A piece that I want to replace, where can I get a new one? Or a good used one?
From looking at this, it is the passenger side rear foot well, and it appears to be just a little bit rusted. Are you REALLY set on putting in a NEW one?

Is it THAT badly rusted that it absolutely needs replacing? OR would you, could you be satisfied with making it to where it won't rust further, and when it is painted would look like it did originally, and will cost just a small fraction of what cutting it out and welding in a new one, and take a lot less time? If the answer to these questions is "yes" then have I got a neat fix for you! :) One that I used myself, and unless you know about it, wouldn't know that it had been done, and even if you DID know about it wouldn't be able to tell it had been done.

The motor I want to put in it 390 4bbl 4v
What is in it NOW? The engine that is already in it looks like an FE. Isn't it a 390?

Anyway, this looks like a GREAT project for you.

Don't throw anything that you took out of it away yet. Much of what came out MAY be able to be refurbished and unless it is absolutely un-usable has earned the right to continue with the vehicle by it's 44 years of faithful service.

For instance: The heavy rubber mats that go on the floor under the carpet padding. They can be spiffed up and will work as good as new with just a little attention and the application of the readily available, "right" stuff on them.

I'm doing much what you are doing to Ms. American 3.14159, and pretty much documenting EVERYTHING here on the Ford Muscle Forum.

BTW, it has become the custom here to give the Gals here each their own name. Like Deb's is called the "ShotRod", and mine is "Ms. American 3.14159". And there's one called "Albert". Got a name in mind for YOUR 65?

Like I said: "What a nice project car you have there." And welcome to the group. What fun we have.

Hope you are well.

JC
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Hey 65GXL,
Nice car! What numbers did you run in order to ascertain that it is supposed to have a 4bbl? (BTW, 4bbl (four barrel) and 4v (four venturi) mean the same thing). And what is the make of the 4bbl that your father has? Autolite or Holley or ??? If it is an Autolite 4100 you're indeed lucky! Just ask Deb. :)
I will have to go look and see what carb that is. Really? 4v, and 4bbl mean the same thing?? I thought the 4v part had something to do with the block? I guess not. I am only 16 you know lol
I just ran the vin on decodethis.com and it said that the car came with a 4bbl, and the motor that is in my car now, is a 2bbl

From looking at this, it is the passenger side rear foot well, and it appears to be just a little bit rusted. Are you REALLY set on putting in a NEW one?

Is it THAT badly rusted that it absolutely needs replacing? OR would you, could you be satisfied with making it to where it won't rust further, and when it is painted would look like it did originally, and will cost just a small fraction of what cutting it out and welding in a new one, and take a lot less time? If the answer to these questions is "yes" then have I got a neat fix for you! :) One that I used myself, and unless you know about it, wouldn't know that it had been done, and even if you DID know about it wouldn't be able to tell it had been done.
Yes, it is rusted that bad, can't tell from the pic, but it is just about all the way thru the floor, yes it is the passenger rear part, right where the person in the back seat puts their feet.

What is in it NOW? The engine that is already in it looks like an FE. Isn't it a 390?
Yes, this is a 390.

Anyway, this looks like a GREAT project for you.

Don't throw anything that you took out of it away yet. Much of what came out MAY be able to be refurbished and unless it is absolutely un-usable has earned the right to continue with the vehicle by it's 44 years of faithful service.

For instance: The heavy rubber mats that go on the floor under the carpet padding. They can be spiffed up and will work as good as new with just a little attention and the application of the readily available, "right" stuff on them.
Yes, I'm keeping everything for it. I'm already thinking about selling the white interior I took out of it.

I'm doing much what you are doing to Ms. American 3.14159, and pretty much documenting EVERYTHING here on the Ford Muscle Forum.

BTW, it has become the custom here to give the Gals here each their own name. Like Deb's is called the "ShotRod", and mine is "Ms. American 3.14159". And there's one called "Albert". Got a name in mind for YOUR 65?
No, I do not have a name for it, I'm not totally sure what I could call it. Any ideas? ?

Like I said: "What a nice project car you have there." And welcome to the group. What fun we have.

Hope you are well.

JC
Thanks so much for all of your info.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,376 Posts
I will have to go look and see what carb that is.
Hey 65G,
Since it isn't the carburetor that it was supposed to have, I'm going to bet that it's a Holley. Probably a 4150 with vacuum secondaries. That is a popular replacement. But the "proper&correct" carburetor is the Autolite 4100 1.12. Here is a link to see that unit:

Autolite 4100 1.12 C4AF-9510 DG Carburetor

Really? 4v, and 4bbl mean the same thing?? I thought the 4v part had something to do with the block? I guess not.
Actually, if one wanted to get really technical, one could argue that 4bbl refers to the the number of venturis in the carburetor, and 4v refers to the number of holes in the intake manifold. But generally, 4bbl, or 4v refers to the engine having a four barrel carburetor/four venturi manifold.

I am only 16 you know lol
Oh, to be young again! :)

I just ran the vin on decodethis.com and it said that the car came with a 4bbl, and the motor that is in my car now, is a 2bbl
So it may be that this is not the original engine, or not the original intake manifold/carburetor. I noticed on the picture of the engine that the outlet on the intake manifold doesn't have the double outlet like the 65 that "oneputtster" supplied the JPG of here a while back. It rather has the single outlet with a tube going to the carburetor spacer. That's an indication that engine is NOT the original engine, and may be from an earlier year.

What is the "letter" in the fifth position on the VIN?

If it is a "Z" then the book "Super 60s Fords" says that it came with a "Ford built, 'Holley-style' carburetor".

BUT... the OTHER 390 engine offered in 1965 was a "P-Code" engine.

Is the "letter" in the fifth position on the VIN a "P"? That would be a "rare" engine as it would indicate that the car was a "Police Interceptor", with solid lifters, and 330 HP. That might explain why the engine was replaced, as someone might have wanted just the engine.

If the "letter" in the fifth position is an "X" then the engine is a 352 w/ a 4bbl.

But I didn't see ANY 390 in 1965 that had a 2bbl carburetor.

Yes, it is rusted that bad, can't tell from the pic, but it is just about all the way thru the floor, yes it is the passenger rear part, right where the person in the back seat puts their feet.
It may very well be that it NEEDS replacing. It's hard to tell from the JPG. But the "fix" that I was going to tell you about is one that I used on Ms. American 3.14159's rust holes in the the passenger compartment and trunk floors, which is an aluminum foil and epoxy resin laminate. I was not able to work 14 guage sheet metal to get all the indentations, ridges, and compound curves, BUT I can shape aluminum foil, and make the contours of the floor the same as the original. And it only takes about five layers of aluminum foil and epoxy resin to equal the thickness of the floor. It's easy, quick, and inexpensive to do, and comes out, once it is coated top and bottom, to be indistinguishable from the more convention "fix" of cutting out the old pan and welding in a new one. I've pretty much documented the process in the the thread titled: "The Great Aluminum/Epoxy Resin Rusted Floor Fix Caper" which is current on the FM Forum. I've just finished putting Hurculiner Bed Liner on the floor of the 3.14, and you can't tell that it has been patched at all. It looks and feels as good as a new floor! :)

Yes, I'm keeping everything for it. I'm already thinking about selling the white interior I took out of it.
The heavy rubber mats can be put out in the sun on a flat surface where they get hot and flatten out. Any tears in them can be fixed with Gorilla Glue. Then they are sprayed with "NAPA Performix PLASTI-DIP Multi-Purpose Rubber Coating", and they come out looking brand new! Besides, they're under the carpet padding and carpet anyway.

No, I do not have a name for it, I'm not totally sure what I could call it. Any ideas? ?
Will have to give the name some thought as the project progresses. I will say that giving "it" a name changes "it" from an "it" to a "who"! :) "She" (since "it" IS a Gal-axie) will usually have a feminine name, although Deb might disagree. And some time ago there was an FM Forum netizen named "T-BirdChick" who said that what determined if a car was a male or a female was if it had a single exhaust pipe it was a boy, and if it had dual exhausts it was a girl. :)

Thanks so much for all of your info.
You are welcome, I'm sure. There are lots of GREAT people here with lots of answers to lots of questions.

Hope this finds YOU doing well.

JC
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Hey 65G,
Since it isn't the carburetor that it was supposed to have, I'm going to bet that it's a Holley. Probably a 4150 with vacuum secondaries. That is a popular replacement. But the "proper&correct" carburetor is the Autolite 4100 1.12. Here is a link to see that unit:

Autolite 4100 1.12 C4AF-9510 DG Carburetor
Yeah, I still have to get out there and look at it.

Actually, if one wanted to get really technical, one could argue that 4bbl refers to the the number of venturis in the carburetor, and 4v refers to the number of holes in the intake manifold. But generally, 4bbl, or 4v refers to the engine having a four barrel carburetor/four venturi manifold.
Thanks for the info.
Oh, to be young again! :)
Yes, but now I can't wait until this summer, so I can work on the car a lot more often!
So it may be that this is not the original engine, or not the original intake manifold/carburetor. I noticed on the picture of the engine that the outlet on the intake manifold doesn't have the double outlet like the 65 that "oneputtster" supplied the JPG of here a while back. It rather has the single outlet with a tube going to the carburetor spacer. That's an indication that engine is NOT the original engine, and may be from an earlier year.

What is the "letter" in the fifth position on the VIN?

If it is a "Z" then the book "Super 60s Fords" says that it came with a "Ford built, 'Holley-style' carburetor".

BUT... the OTHER 390 engine offered in 1965 was a "P-Code" engine.

Is the "letter" in the fifth position on the VIN a "P"? That would be a "rare" engine as it would indicate that the car was a "Police Interceptor", with solid lifters, and 330 HP. That might explain why the engine was replaced, as someone might have wanted just the engine.

If the "letter" in the fifth position is an "X" then the engine is a 352 w/ a 4bbl.

But I didn't see ANY 390 in 1965 that had a 2bbl carburetor.
The motor I want to put in my car is from an early 60's T-Bird, and that has the 330 hp motor, the "Police Interceptor" which is the biggest reason I want to put it in my car, my galaxie is a Z code car.
It may very well be that it NEEDS replacing. It's hard to tell from the JPG. But the "fix" that I was going to tell you about is one that I used on Ms. American 3.14159's rust holes in the the passenger compartment and trunk floors, which is an aluminum foil and epoxy resin laminate. I was not able to work 14 guage sheet metal to get all the indentations, ridges, and compound curves, BUT I can shape aluminum foil, and make the contours of the floor the same as the original. And it only takes about five layers of aluminum foil and epoxy resin to equal the thickness of the floor. It's easy, quick, and inexpensive to do, and comes out, once it is coated top and bottom, to be indistinguishable from the more convention "fix" of cutting out the old pan and welding in a new one. I've pretty much documented the process in the the thread titled: "The Great Aluminum/Epoxy Resin Rusted Floor Fix Caper" which is current on the FM Forum. I've just finished putting Hurculiner Bed Liner on the floor of the 3.14, and you can't tell that it has been patched at all. It looks and feels as good as a new floor! :)
I might have to try that.
The heavy rubber mats can be put out in the sun on a flat surface where they get hot and flatten out. Any tears in them can be fixed with Gorilla Glue. Then they are sprayed with "NAPA Performix PLASTI-DIP Multi-Purpose Rubber Coating", and they come out looking brand new! Besides, they're under the carpet padding and carpet anyway.
Well, I know I'll try that!
Will have to give the name some thought as the project progresses. I will say that giving "it" a name changes "it" from an "it" to a "who"! :) "She" (since "it" IS a Gal-axie) will usually have a feminine name, although Deb might disagree. And some time ago there was an FM Forum netizen named "T-BirdChick" who said that what determined if a car was a male or a female was if it had a single exhaust pipe it was a boy, and if it had dual exhausts it was a girl. :)
Then I guess it's a girl! I have dual exhaust!! Yes, we'll have to see if anything special turns up as the project proceeds
You are welcome, I'm sure. There are lots of GREAT people here with lots of answers to lots of questions.
I'm sure I'll be asking a few more before I'm done!
Hope this finds YOU doing well.

JC
Yes, I'm doing good, just got to find the ambition to go and work on it now :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
More pics of after I sanded on it yesterday.





Put a new air cleaner on it. Funny thing, I took the old one off, and looked inside of it, and no air cleaner!! Just the metal thing that goes around it! HAHA


I need a new one of these also.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
509 Posts
Looks like a 68 or later engine, as it has the 67-? style valve covers and the thermostat housing has the port for the EGR (I think that is what went there) switch. Weird thing is I just pulled those same valve covers and that housing off a 65 in a local junkyard that had a later engine swapped in. My 67 for some reason has 65-66 style valve covers, but that may be because it was an early build date (Dec '66).

Have fun with her, looks to be a good project!

Greg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,376 Posts
No, I do not have a name for it, I'm not totally sure what I could call it. Any ideas? ?
Hey 65GXL,
I was thinking about a name for your ride, and you mentioned that you have a "P-Code" engine for it.

Since it's going to be converted to being a P-Code engined Convertible, how about "P-Con PI" (pecan pie)?

OR, because it is going to be "converted" to a P-Code Engine, and it is a Convertible, call it "The Apostle"! :)

BTW, how do you know that the engine you are putting into it is a "P-Code"?

There is a way to know.

Look on the lower driver's side of the block's bell housing flange. The P-Code engine has a 5/8" tall P engraved there.

Anyway, hope you are well.

JC
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Where did you pick the car up at? It looks a lot like one that was sitting along Hwy 12 south of the Wisconsin Dells last fall.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Where did you pick the car up at? It looks a lot like one that was sitting along Hwy 12 south of the Wisconsin Dells last fall.
No, I bought this car off of ebay, and it came from Washington.

Hey 65GXL,
I was thinking about a name for your ride, and you mentioned that you have a "P-Code" engine for it.

Since it's going to be converted to being a P-Code engined Convertible, how about "P-Con PI" (pecan pie)?

OR, because it is going to be "converted" to a P-Code Engine, and it is a Convertible, call it "The Apostle"! :)

BTW, how do you know that the engine you are putting into it is a "P-Code"?

There is a way to know.

Look on the lower driver's side of the block's bell housing flange. The P-Code engine has a 5/8" tall P engraved there.

Anyway, hope you are well.

JC
I like the "P-Con PI" one!! That might be the name for it, I'll have to think about it, because it's not for sure that I'm going to be switching the motor.

And, I do not know for 100% that it is a P-code motor, it was pulled from a 64ish T-Bird, and the guy my dad bought the car from, claimed that it was the P-code motor. I'll go out here in a little bit and look at the motor, and take some pics of it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Nice ride. They clean up real nice. Mines in process of a motor rebuild now,should be on the road by June. Best of luck,parts for these beast can be tough.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,376 Posts
I like the "P-Con PI" one!! That might be the name for it, I'll have to think about it, because it's not for sure that I'm going to be switching the motor.
Hey 65GXL,
I'll keep thinking. :)

And, I do not know for 100% that it is a P-code motor, it was pulled from a 64ish T-Bird, and the guy my dad bought the car from, claimed that it was the P-code motor.
They're not easy to tell if they are or aren't just by looking at them. If it came out of a T-Bird, the chances are that it isn't a P-Code, but not impossible, as one could order most anything in most anything back then.

One of the main differences in the P-Code engine of that era is that the P-Code engine had solid lifters. Some say that they also had an aluminum intake manifold, but they didn't. Also, the 1964 P-Code engine had the 427 style "Shorty Headers"

The JPG of the engine that you posted as being the engine that you were going to put into the P-Con, has the exhaust manifolds missing. And it has studs in the exhaust flanges which the stock P-Code engine didn't have, although those could have been put in so THAT isn't any kind of indication of anything definite.

BUT, the exhaust pipe to which the exhaust manifold fits is too HIGH to be in the right place for it to be connected to a set of Shorty Headers.

Another way to tell if it is "maybe" a P-Code engine is to pull the Valve Covers. If it has adjustable rockers, then it has solid lifters, and "may" be a P-Code.

If it has non-adjustable rockers it has hydraulic lifters and is NOT a P-Code.

But the REAL indication is, as I mentioned, the "P" engraved on the lower driver's side bell housing flange.

I'll go out here in a little bit and look at the motor, and take some pics of it.
See if you can get some JPGs of the numbers on the intake manifold just in front of the carburetor. Of the numbers on the heads, between cylinder 2 and 3 on the passenger side, and between 6 and 7 on the drivers side. And of the block just below the oil pump on the front of the block on the driver's side. Then you can tell when the parts were made.

If you want to see what the numbers look like click here:

1964 FORD GALAXIE 500 PI PARTS

These are the numbers on Ms. American 3.14159's parts.

Will await your NEW JPGs and we'll go from there.

Hope you are well.

JC
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,376 Posts
And, I do not know for 100% that it is a P-code motor,
Hey 65GXL,
I just looked again at the JPG of the engine that you indicated that you may put into the P-Con, and it has blue Valve Covers with no lettering embossed on them. If it were a 64 P-Code engine, and if it had the stock Valve Covers they would be Gold and have the word "THUNDERBIRD" embossed on them.

BTW, the carburetor, that although it is partially covered, LOOKS (from what I can see of the bottom of it) like an Autolite 4100. Look on the driver's side front float bowl. It should have a circle with the numbers "1.12" embossed there.

Also, look on the front "foot" on the driver's side you will see a part number.

The one I rebuilt for Ms. American is a C4AF-DG, (in actuality, it should be a BV or a BY, but DG is as close as I could find).

C = 1960s
4 = 1964
A = ?? (full size Ford?)
F = Fuel system.

If the one on the engine that you pictured is the original carburetor, you can tell "about" what year the engine was built.

The beat goes on.

JC
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,971 Posts
If it is out of a Thunderbird you will find casting numbers like C3SE-????.

C-decade 60s
3-year, parts were assembled and sold using date codes from the year before
S-Thunderbird
E-Engine part

The remaining numbers will denote the actual part.
My 62 had C1AE castings everywhere on the engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I haven't worked on the car since the last update, I have school during the week. I still also haven't checked the numbers on the motor, been busy lately, so I'll get the numbers probably on Saturday. So I'll post that info then. Thanks guys!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
School is out now!! So now I will have some more time to work on the old gal.
I'll post some pics and vids of it tonight, but right now I have a question, I'm trying to take the front bumper off, but 2 clips inside the frame are turning. How do I stop that??
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top