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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Nominally now, they are 52 cc chambers.


Before the cut at 58 cc's.


The intake faces were re-cut to adjust to the .060 angle mill.



They had to re-align the head bolt holes.



Guides are ok. What a relief to finally get past this phase of this mini-project. I have a crap load of fiberglass parts to put on the car but I don't want to start that until I get the engine done and running. Other than a clean up cut most all of the cutting was on the spark plug end of the heads so my existing push rods may be fine. I will still check them.

Alls I need now is money for new roller rockers, studs and a valve job. I already have my springs, retainers and keepers.
 

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And radial valve clearance too.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have to load up a load of scrap to get some money so it will have to wait. I still have to have the valve job done and buy a new set of studs and rockers, trial fit everything and hope it is all good. It will probably be January before I have it running again. I just had to go buy a new monitor for the PC with money I could have spent on better things.
 

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I just had to go buy a new monitor for the PC with money I could have spent on better things.
Ah, more life getting in the way. I know about that.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #7
HEY. I got a set of Autolite 25's. They have a long shank and short threads. They don't even come up to the face of the head. Imagine that.

 

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How short are they? A thread or two, or more like 1/4"? If just a thread or two, be sure to break edges to prevent hot spots. Start with the 25s, but I would say when leaning to max torque, 24s are likely in your future. Read after every run for signs.

David
 

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Breaking edges is a standard blueprinting procedure on all of the engine parts. On the rest of the engine, it reduces stress risers that cause cracking or failures at the sharp edges. In the chamber it prevents pre-ignition. You do not want sharp edges in the chamber that can heat-up and cause pre-ignition. All edges and corners (including exposed threads) should be radiused or have their sharp edges 'broken' with a tool to get rid of the sharp edge. It doesn't take much. Thin or sharp = hot = bad.

David
 
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