[thecougarguy]

Ok, after hours absorbing the Summit and Paw catalogs, pluging in different combos into Engine Analyzer, this is what I want to go with. I'm going to do it in 2 stages, and will break them up for you.

Stage 1:
Coast High 347 Street Fighter (includes rods, pistons, crank all the fixings)
Edelbrock RPM (hood clearance IS an issue, otherwise, Victor Jr.)
Edelbrock 600 CFM Carb
Comp Cams Xtreme Energy 274/286 (230/236, .520/.523 Int/Exh)
Rhoades Hydraulic Lifters
Crane Stamped Steel Rockers (already have them)
Hooker Comp Headers
ARP Bolts all around
Fel-Pro gaskets
Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer
Ford Motorsport Flywheel
MSD Billet Distributor
MSD 6-A Control
Stock Pushrods
Stock 289 heads (valve job done 1 1/2 years ago)
---
With that combo, I got 374 tq at 4500 rpm and 356 HP at 5500. Then I save up some more money, and do Stage 2.

Stage 2:
Edelbrock 800 CFM Carb
Edelbrock hardened pushrods
Trick Flow Twisted wedge heads (61 cc, 2.02/1.6 int/exh, AFR heads are more than I want to spend for the comparable performance)
Comp Cams roller rockers
---
With those additions, I got 402 tq at 5000, and 412 at 6500. What do you guys think? Do those numbers sound about right? Also, if I don't put slicks on my Cougar, and don't powershift, will my Z spec T5 hold up? Most importantly, will these set-ups be streetable?

Thanks, and sorry for the long post.

Mike

 

[1970galaxie]

The engine sounds streetable, as long as a 1,000 RPM idle and 10 MPG on a good day don't bother you.

 

[mavman]

1000rpm idle? Jeez, wish our 393 would idle below 1500!

 

[Ron1]

Have you looked at www.jdsperformance.com
They gave me excellent service, delivered product on time, and at the best price. Dave also spent a lot of time talking with the machine shop I was using, and his final HP prediction for my 347 was almost perfect.

Ron

 

[oldmustangjunkie]

Ditch the 289 heads, they barely feed a 289/302. You can save the money you would have spent to get an even better set of heads, like the AFRs. Is that cam roller? BTW, if you really want 289 heads, I have a set cut for 1.94/1.6 and set up for roller springs. [email protected]

_________________
65 Mustang: 5 speed, 3.73's, RAP Ported GT-40 Irons, xe258hr cam, Perf. RPM, 600 cfm Carter AFB, Jacobs ignition
66 Mustang: 289-2V, 3spd, Slipping Clutch, Bashed-up Front End

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: oldmustangjunkie on 3/7/02 9:46pm ]</font>

 

[thecougarguy]

Ok, little modification, instead of the coast high kit, I think I'll go with the JD kit, it comes with the Trick Flow pistons which I need for the Heads with a high lift cam. I would ditch the 289 heads at first, but I already have them and they're in good shape, and money is an object. This way, I can have a plenty powerful stroker for a couple of months, and then get the new heads, and upgrade the valvetrain at the same time, making it even more powerful, without being forced to eat peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for a couple months because I have a bitchin car, but no money.

As far as streetability, what's killing me more, the duration of the cam, or the lift? Also, should I just stick with my 600 cfm carb?

 

[Mach1Morgan]

Your reasoning and combo makes sense to me. As for streetability.... duration is what makes cams unstreetable. Lift adds power with out many side effects other than shortened valve guide and valvespring life. The Extreme series or cams are a very good compromise if the specs are right for your engine. They have fast opening and closing rates and therefore have a very good lift to duration ratio.

 

[myoldidisbroke]

ditch the fluidcrapper and use a romac, get a custom cam when you decide on the heads.

todd

 

[thecougarguy]

What's wrong with the fluidampr? I've heard really good things aout them. Also, how and where do I get a custom cam made? I don't think I know enough about engines to know what kind of specs I would want or need...

 

[n2omike]

The cam and all sounds about right for the combination. Just be sure to let it breathe... which means a good exhaust system. If you use tailpipes, be sure to invest in a set of MANDREL BENT tailpipes. Flowmaster makes them for early stangs. They fit great, and are only $99 from Summit. HIGHLY recommended.

You'll be VERY disappointed in the engine until the aftermarket heads are installed. Just be ready for that. With the new heads, be sure check the rocker arm geometry. The roller should stay right close to the center of the valve tip with no more than 0.080" sweep. Trick Flow has a list of recommended rockers. Longer pushrods are usually required.

I guess you've already weighed the 331 vs. 347 issue, so I'll keep my mouth shut. (I like the 331)

Good Luck!

 

[Jimmys66]

Ok Mike, I'm going to open my mouth and ask. I know you prefer the 331 kit. Do you prefer the 331 in all out race form or in all applications. The ring problem bothered me until the Probe Ind. piston took care of that issue. I'm looking to build a stroker for the steet and would like all the extra C.I. that I can get my hands on. If kept under 7000RPM will the 347 Coast High kit have reasonable longevity and how much torque difference is there between the 331 and the 347, since more torque is what I'm looking for anyways?

 

[n2omike]

It will probably be fine... as long as it is kept at street rpm's and nitrous/blowers are kept away from it. 302 blocks will handle around 500 hp reliably (at the stock stroke) as long as they are kept out of detonation. Stroking puts additional stress on the bottom end, effectively reducing the block's power capacity. The more it is stroked, the more it is reduced. The 500 hp limit is easily exceeded with power adders using the STOCK stroke.... So power adders combined with stroker kits are not really a good idea. If the CHP/Probe kit doesn't put the piston pin in the oil ring, and you don't intend on pushing the power into the 'danger' range, you should be alright.

A 331 will produce just as much horsepower as the 347, but the 347 will make its power at a lower rpm. If you want a torker, and don't really care about pushing the engine all that hard, the CHP/Probe kit that keeps the pin out of the oil rings will be fine.

Good Luck!

 

[myoldidisbroke]

Call cam motion for a cam, price is a wash compared to a shelf cam. They will get everything they need from you and then come back with a cam selection.

Some like the fluid dampeners others don't choice is yours. They are a bit big so you might have to clearance you water pump to make it work. Many people are running the Romac balancer, no problems and they are much cheaper.

Don't fear the 347, I'm still waiting to find a 331 that will hang with mine

10.39/130mph NA.

todd

 

[Robbi]

Souds like a good combo for street.
If you use the stock 289 heads be sure the springs valvesprings match the higher lift of your cam .

 

[Jimmys66]

Thanks for the info Mike. Since your a critic of the 347's, you'd be the person to give me an honest answer.

 

[n2omike]

A little more...

To keep the piston skirts from hitting the crank counterweights at bottom dead center, the pistons on stroker engines are made really short.

These shorter pistons don't sit as squarely in their bores (which affects ring seal) and transmit more side pressure to the cylinder.

It's a pressure thing. The side load might be the same as for a longer piston, but that force is exerted on a smaller area. An extreme analogy would be having a woman walk on your back... first barefoot, then with high heels. Yes, the load is the same, but with the heels, it's exerted in a smaller area.

For longevity, the longer the piston skirt, the better.

Of course, those side loads increase with the load exerted on the engine. If it's not run all that hard all the time, you shouldn't have any major problems.

Just another little factoid...

Good Luck!